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ALASKANA 


OR 


Alaska  in   Descriptive  and   Legendary 
Poems 


BY 

PROF.  BUSHROD  W.  JAMES.  A.M.,  M.D. 

Member  of  the  Society  of  Natural  History  and  Ethnology ,  Sitka,  Alaska 

Pennsylvania  Historical  Society ;  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences;  Franklin 

Institute,  Philadelphia;  American  Association  for  the  Advanccmcjit 

of  Science;  American  Academy  of  Political  and  Social  Science ; 

Americati   Public    Health    Association ;    Professor  of 

Physiology  i"  th-  New  York  Medical  College 

and  Hospital  fur  IVotnen,  etc. 


PHILADELPHIA 

PORTER  &   COATES 

1892 


^ 


Copyrighted,  1892, 
By  BusHROD  W.  James. 


All  rights  reserved. 


DEDICATION. 


To  MY   Intimate,  Worthy   and   Esteemed   Friend,  and 

Fellow-Traveler  through  Norway,  Sweden,  Fin 

land,  Russia,  and  other  Foreign  Lands, 

Professor  Jabez  P.   Dake,   M.D., 

of    NASHVILLE,    TENNESSEE, 

Who  HAS  A  KEEN  Appreciation  of  Scenic  Grandeur  and 

Beauty,   I    Dedicate   this    Humble    Effort   at 

Recording   some  of  the   Notes   taken 

ON  my  Tour  in  Alaska. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


PREFACE. 


AFTER  having  made  a  tour  in  Alaska  and 
■'^  beholding  the  beauties  that  are  spread 
through  its  water-ways,  along  its  coasts,  and  in 
the  few  towns  of  which  it  can  boast ;  having  had 
glimpses  into  the  peculiarities  of  its  people,  and 
the  natural  resources  of  wealth  that  are  to  be 
obtained  from  its  animal  and  veg-etable  kinor- 
doms ;  I  became  so  deeply  impressed  that  I 
resolved  to  perpetuate  my  visit  in  verse,  when 
involuntarily  the  weird,  rhymeless  style  of 
"The  Kalevala"  and  "Hiawatha"  touched  me 
as  more  appropriate  than  any  other  measure 
for  the  description  of  a  people  and  country,  as 
yet,  so  little  known,  but  so  well  worthy  of 
nearer  acquaintance. 

(3) 


4  PREFACE. 

I  am  not  egotist  enough  to  suppose  that  my 
book  may  do  much  toward  attracting  tourists 
or  speculators  to  the  land,  the  possession  of 
which  makes  a  truth  of  the  statement  that  "the 
sun  never  sets"  on  the  Republic  of  the  United 
States.  But  if  even  a  few  are  moved  by  it  to 
visit  its  magnificent  glaciers,  its  beautiful 
straits  and  channels,  and  the  towns  and  vil- 
lages so  strangely  different  from  our  own 
Eastern  cities ;  if  one  or  two  are  tempted  to 
look  into  the  gold-mines  of  Douglass  Island,  or 
to  while  a  little  time  in  siorht  of  Sitka's  beau- 
tiful  sound  and  harbor,  I  will  feel  that  I  have 
not  written  in  vain. 

I  suppose  there  comes  to  every  one  the 
desire  to  tell  of  what  he  has  seen.  Some  may 
do  It  far  more  ably  than  others ;  but  one 
must  feel  that  he  owes  an  apology  for  his  bold- 
ness in  aoain  enterincr  his  name  amono^  the 
authors  of  his  day — and  this  I  do,  taking  as 
my  excuse  the  living  pictures  that  have 
haunted    me   with    their    strangeness    or   their 


PREFACE.  5 

loveliness  ever  since  I  roamed  among"  theni  a 
few  years  ago. 

While  on  my  visit  to  Alaska,  and  some  time 
thereafter,  I  published  a  series  of  letters  de- 
scriptive of  that  which  I  saw  ;  for  these  I  re- 
ceived kind  mention  in  some  of  our  magazines 
and  daily  papers.  Such  tokens  of  appreciation, 
together  with  the  success  ot  my  book  entitled 
"American  Resorts  and  Climates,"  published 
in  1889,  led  me  to  attempt  this  work. 

In  the  progress  of  the  writing  of  these  poems 
I  have  consulted  the  various  Government  pub- 
lications on  Alaska,  and  such  writers  as  Prof 
Elliott,  Charles  Hallock,  Lieutenant  Schwatka, 
Dr.  Sheldon  Jackson  and  Mrs,  Willard  ;  all  of 
whom  have  been  placed  in  such  positions  as  to 
know  far  more  of  the  territory  and  its  inhabit- 
ants than  I  could  possibly  have  learned  during 
my  visit;  therefore  my  thanks  are  due  to  them, 
in  a  £freat  measure,  if  I  have  succeeded  in  oiv- 
ing  any  graphic  descriptions  of  the  people  and 
their  customs.      I  thank  other  authors  of  more 


6  PREFACE. 

recent  date  which  I  have  also  consulted.  Of  the 
scenery — in  sunshine  and  clouds,  in  darkness 
and  in  moonlight ;  of  the  spring-like  beauty  of 
some  parts,  the  icy  grandeur  of  glacier  fields 
and  glaciers,  of  bays  and  inlets,  and  of  other 
portions  of  the  country — I  have  living  pictures, 
from  personal  observation,  that  can  never  fade 
from  my  memory. 

BusHROD  W.  James. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Introduction 9 

Bering's  Voyage  to  Alaska — Legend  of 17 

Alaska 26 

Sitka 32 

Alaskan  Native  Tribes 40 

Algae  of  Alaska 52 

Flora  in  Alaska 59 

Birds  of  Alaska 70 

A  Humming-Bird  in  Sitka Ti 

Indian  River      84 

Alaskan  Marriage ' 89 

Totems 97 

Alaskan  Doctors 109 

Power  of  the  Medicine  Men 122 

A  Medicine  Man's  Burial 130 

A  Haidah  Taamish 138 

The  Alaska  Indian's  Funeral      144 

Indian's  Dread  of  Drowning 152 

(7) 


5  CONTENTS. 

PAGB 

Co-e-ky  or  Death  Feast 157 

Festival  of  U-gi-ak 165 

Potlatch 170 

Hot  Springs  of  Alaska 179 

Clubbing  the  Sea-Otter 185 

Morse  and  Mahlemoot 192 

The  Seal  or  Pribylov  Islands 200 

The  Seals  of  Alaska 210 

Na-ass  River — Legend  of 217 

Fishing  on  Na-ass  River      223 

Pinnacle  Islet 229 

The  Birth  of  Bogaslov  Islet — Legend  of 235 

Indian  Legend  of  the  Large  Glacier  on  Stickeen  River  243 

Chilkat  Legend  of  the  Raven 251 

The  Owl — Legend  of 260 

Yehl — Legend  of 271 

Mount  Edgecumbe — Legend  of 279 

Baranov  Castle — Legend  of 290 

The  Silent  City — Modern  Legend  of 299 

Cliff-Builders 304 

Taku  Inlet 315 

Muir  Glacier      320 

Mirage  in  Alaska      334 

Moonlight  in  Alaska 342 

Aurora 349 

Sunset  in  Alaska 355 

Appendix 361 


INTRODUCTION. 


T  N  a  mansion  by  a  streamlet, 

On  a  tilled  "and  fertile  farm-land — 
In  a  homestead  rich  with  beauty, 
Made  by  art  and  nature,  blending 
In  a  fair,  harmonious  union  : 
At  the  silent  hour  of  midnight, 
In  the  weird,  still  hour  of  dreaming, 
Started  first  these  wandering  flood-tides  ; 
Opened  then  the  gates  of  musing 
O'er  the  scenes  through  which  I've  lingered, 
Over  countries  bathed  in  lustre. 
Shed  from  classics,  grand  and  ancient, — 
Countries  bearing  on  their  banners 
Symbols  bold  of  nations,  noble 

(9) 


rO  INTRODUCTION. 

In  their  learning  and  their  prowess, 
In  their  trustful  deeds  of  honor: 
Over  lands  who  glory  ever 
In  their  brilliant  feats  of  conquest, 
Proud  to  bear  upon  their  signets 
Emblems  of  their  daring  contests  ; 
Marking  not  the  mighty  roll-call, 
Counting  not  the  streams  of  life-blood 
That  have  rushed,  and  ebbed,  and  fallen, 
But  to  swell  a  broader  boundary, 
But  to  line  a  grander  border  ; 
For  the  flag  that  led  them  onward. 
That  its  creeping  folds  should  farther 
Wave,  and  mark  a  Nation's  glory  ! 
On  they  wandered,  those  late  musings, 
Over  mountains  bold  and  frowning — 
Over  snowy  peaks  and  ranges, 
Or  through  vales  of  sparkling  beauty, 
Of  such  loveliness  and  fairness 
As  a  poet's  heart  would  fancy 
Pure  and  briorht  enough  for  dwellinors 
For  his  grandest  thought  creations. 


INTRODUCTION.  I  I 

Later,  memory  touched  a  country, 

As  a  needle  finds  a  magnet, 

Thus  my  thoughts  clung  close  around  it, 

Tremblingly  at  first,  then  steady, 

Till  all  else  grew  dimly  distant, 

All  the  classic  grandeur  faded, 

And  once  more  my  footsteps  wandered, 

In  those  wakeful  hours  of  midnight. 

Far  beyond  great  city  noises — 

Distant  from  the  blooming  farm-lands, 

Far  away  from  kindred  faces 

And  from  soft  familiar  voices ; 

Till  my  ears  were  filled  with  jargon 

Much  beyond  my  comprehension : 

And  I  saw  strange,  dusky  faces— 

Faces,  wild  with  savage  cunning. 

Swarthy  faces,  marked  with  sea-breath, 

Or  with  scars  of  heathen  beauty. 

Some  had  skins  so  finely  textured 

That  the  crimson  blood  shone  through  them, 

Rich  and  bright  as  warm  Italia 

Often  tints  her  fairest  daughters. 


1 2  INTRODUCTION. 

Others,  black  and  rendered  hideous 
By  their  strange  and  cruel  customs — 
By  their  marks  of  heathen  torture, 
Or  the  paint  smeared  o'er  them  rudely. 
More  I  saw — a  country  added 
To  a  glory-crowned  republic  ! 
Not  a  blood-stained,  cowering  tribute 
Lowering  under  smouldering  ashes, — 
Under  ashes  holding  embers 
That  but  wait  a  hand  to  fan  them 
Into  fierce,  rebellious  flaming, 
Into  fires  too  hot  for  quenching, — 
But  a  land  made  ours  by  purchase ! 
Bought,  without  a  crimson  signing 
Of  the  title-deed  that  makes  it 
Part  of  this  most  noble  Union. 
Lofty  mountains  towered  above  me, 
Snow-capped  mountains,  bold  and  stately, 
Old  volcanoes,  still  and  hoary. 
Grimly  frowned  across  my  pathway ; 
RueS'ed  cliffs  and  orass-fjrown  hillocks 
Sheltered  peaceful,  smiling  valleys  ; 


INTRODUCTION.  1 3 

vSpicy  firs  and  feathery  spruces 
Whispered  in  my  ear  soft  music 
Touched  by  breezes,  pure  and  balmy, 
Whose  clear  cadences  awakened 
Thoughts  of  home,  for  so  the  branches 
Answer  in  the  same  sweet  language 
To  the  tunes  the  wood-sprites  murmur 
In  the  trees  that  bend  above  me, 
When  my  weary  steps  turn  homeward, 
And  my  sated  brain  needs  resting 
From  the  pleasant  task  of  taking. 
Grasping,  and  retaining  pictures 
That,  forever  spread  before  me, 
Tempt  with  such  alluring  radiance 
As  to  make  me  wish  to  wander. 
And  to  long  for  wing-tipped  sandals 
And  a  frame  with  Sampson's  vigor  ! 
Onward  still  my  musings  traveled, 
When  a  sad-toned  night-bird  calling, 
In  the  trees  around  my  dwelling. 
Caused  an  eagle's  scream  to  echo 
As  I  heard  it  in  the  canons, 


1 4  INTRODUCTrON. 

In  the  distant,  icy  North-land, 

Where  he  Hves  unharmed  by  marksmen — 

Monarch  of  his  lofty  crag-nest, 

And  the  cliffs  that  guard  his  dwelling. 

Once  an  owl's  weird  cry  resounding. 

Called  to  mind  the  flocks  of  ravens 

Strutting  in  the  streets  and  doorways, 

Croaking  with  their  soulless  voices, 

And  with  brazen  boldness  robbinof 

Friend  or  foe  with  none  to  hinder. 

Sacred  birds  !    By  heathens  worshipped 

As  fair  nature's  great  creators  ! 

Black-winged  signs  of  midnight  darkness 

Over-spreading  human  outcasts, 

As  a  pall  of  inky  blackness 

Shades  a  sombre,  funeral  casket ! 

And  the  land  of  silenced  midday 

Sleeping  'neath  the  ice-god's  reigning. 

With  such  realistic  coldness 

That  my  very  blood  seemed  colder. 

Rose  before  me,  still  and  silent. 

Save  that  now  and  then  a  hoof- beat 


INTRODUCTION.  1 5 

Made  the  gleaming  ice-crust  crackle  ; 
Or  a  ptarmigan's  low  piping 
Waked  an  echo,  whose  vibrations 
Caused  the  silence  to  seem  deeper 
When  the  last  sweet  chord  had  flitted 
Far  beyond  my  power  of  hearing. 
Or,  that  country  loomed  before  me, 
With  the  radiant  sunshine  glancing 
Over  glaciers,  slowly  gliding — 
Moving  in  majestic  grandeur, 
Onward  toward  the  broad  Pacific — 
Toward  the  boundless,  roaring  waters 
Waiting  ever  to  receive  them — 
Those  bright  ice-cliffs  that  lean  over, 
Bending  toward  the  restless  waters. 
Till  the  surging  billows  charm  them. 
And  they  plunge  in  bright  abandon 
Deep  within  the  ocean's  bosom  ! 
Gems  of  landscape  pass  before  me 
Like  some  glorious  panorama! 
Sparkling  rills  and  river  courses 
Marked  by  emerald  tints  of  verdure— 


1 6  INTRODUCTION. 

Woods  with  shady  deep  recesses, 
Guarded  well  by  tangled  branches, 
Hung  with  graceful,  grey  festooning, 
Formed  by  living  mossy  streamers — 
Waving  mosses,  that  seem  ever 
Seeking  out  the  barren  branches, 
That  their  wiry  roots  may  cover 
And  be-drape  with  clinging  beauty. 
There  an  antlered  deer  stands  gazing— 
Fearlessly  his  dark  eyes  scan  me — 
While  the  song-birds  trill  sweet  music 
And  the  air,  with  perfume  laden. 
Tells  of  blossoms  bright  and  lovely. 
So  the  music  and  the  fragrance 
Steep  my  senses  in  their  richness, 
And  my  spirit  sees,  in  fancy. 
All  my  musings  penned  in  verses — 
Verses,  that  like  pale  snow-fairies 
Wander  forth,  perhaps  to  waken 
Some  stray  thought  to  stalwart  action, 
Or,  mayhap,  to  sink  like  raindrops 
Out  of  sisfht  and  life  forever  ! 


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BERING'S  VOYAGE  TO  ALASKA. 


/^^UT  upon  the  sea  went  sailing — 

^-^^     Out  from  safe  home-port  and  country — 

Forth  upon  an  unknown  pathway — 

Two  small  vessels,  rudely  fashioned, 

Built  so  frailly  that  most  daring 

Were  the  strong,  bcave  men  that  sailed  them, 

True  and  firm  the  hands  that  manned  them; 

And  the  hearts,  that  throbbed  expectant, 

Longed  to  meet  and  conquer  perils. 

Built  and  named  to  sail  in  consort. 

Now  they  started  forth  together, 

Facing  unknown  ocean  dangers. 

Steering  for  a  wild,  new  country, — 

For  a  land  unknown  and  distant. 

(17) 


)  ALASKANA. 

And  tlic  leaders  planned  between  them 

How  they'd  land  and  take  possession — 

How  their  native  home  should  owe  them 

Honor  and  renown,  for  placing 

On  the  distant  shore  the  standard — 

Russia's  wavinof  flacf — as  token 

That  her  people  first  had  landed 

In  the  great,  new  world  that  borders 

On  the  East — the  fair  Pacific  ! 

As  they  ventured  on  together, 

Day  and  night  each  saw  the  other, — - 

Night  and  day  they  held  more  closely, 

Every  hour  hope  growing  stronger, 

That  ere  long  their  eyes  should  open 

On  the  shores  they  learned  to  covet 

More  and  more,  as  time  delaying 

Held  them  from  their  wished- for  glory. 

Suddenly  their  way  was  darkened 

By  the  storm-clouds  bending  over. 

Hiding  from  their  eyes  the  sunlight — 

Threatening  them  with  deep-toned  thunder! 

At  his  post  stood  every  seaman. 


BERING  S    VOYAGE    TO    ALASKA.  1 9 

Ready  at  an  instant's  notice 

To  obey  the  least  commanding 

Of  the  leaders  whom  he  trusted. 

Then  the  storm  broke  in  with  fury, 

And  the  ocean's  heaving  bosom 

Answered  to  the  fierce  cloud-voices 

With  a  low  and  plaintive  moaning; 

While  the  winds  grew  hoarse  with  telling 

Of  the  deluge,  that  the  blackness 

Heralded  to  those  who  lingered 

In  the  track  the  storm  had  chosen  ! 

Down  the  rain  poured,  sweeping  torrents 

Drenched  the  ships  from  stern  to  bowsprit — 

Made  the  shrinking  sails  hang  leaden 

From  the  creaking  masts  and  rigging. 

And  each  silent  sailor's  answer 

To  his  stern  commander's  shouting 

Was  a  grasp  as  strong  as  iron 

And  a  will  to  do  or  perish. 

Close  those  vessels  held  together, 

Fearing  each  to  lose  the  other 

In  the  dreary  waste  of  waters 


20  ALASKANA. 

That  was  tossing  them  like  drift-wood 
In  the  bhnding,  surging  billows. 
Bui;  a  sad  hour  came,  when  signals 
Failed  to  bring  returning  answers — 
For  the  wind  and  storm-beat  ocean 
Smothered,  in  the  fierce  confusion. 
Every  sound  that  man  could  utter, 
And  the  thunder's  mighty  crashing 
Buried  in  its  loud  vibrations 
Every  booming  of  the  ship-guns. 
As  they  tried  to  greet  each  other — 
As  each  tried  to  find  the  other 
In  that  fearful  din  and  roarine 
Of  the  frightful,  tempest  voices  ! 
Far  apart  the  billows  bore  them. 
And  the  storm's  breath  swept  them  farther, 
Till  the  ships  that  sailed  together — 
Those  twin  boats  with  saintly  sponsors* — 
Never  side  by  side  dropped  anchor. 
Never  more  furled  sails,  nor  spread  them 
As  one  boat  with  one  commander. 

*  See  note  in  Appendix. 


BERING  S    VOYAGE    TO    ALASKA.  2  I 

And  the  men  who  sailed  upon  them 
Ne'er  ao-ain  in  life  held  converse 
Nor  beheld  each  other's  faces. 
Bering's  ship  made  aimless  headway 
Through  the  tempest's  shock  and  vapor — 
Through  the  wind's  faith-trying  changes 
And  the  ocean's  trackless  pathways, 
Till  it  drifted  toward  the  mainland, 
Toward  the  bleak  and  lonely  sea-line, 
And  the  great  birds  screamed  a  welcome 
To  the  coast  of  wild  Alaska. 
But  a  little  while  they  lingered, 
For  the  land  was  bare  and  lonely, 
And  the  ship  was  far  more  home-like 
Than  the  dreary  bluffs  and  mountains 
.Standino-  out  as  barren  strongholds 
Close  between  the  sky  and  ocean. 
Then  a  fiercer  storm  broke  o'er  them — 
Driving  them  before  its  fury — 
Hurlinof  them  with  ruthless  vengeance 
O'er  the  wilderness  of  waters — 
O'er  the  faithless,  surofinor  waters 


2  2  ALASKANA. 

Of  the  wild,  unknown  Pacific! 
How  they  sailed,  and  tacked,  and  drifted, 
Longing  for  some  welcome  landing, 
Wishing  for  some  quiet  haven 
Where  the  sick,  the  sad,  the  weary, 
Might  find  peaceful  rest  and  comfort, 
Or,  at  least,  find  time  for  dying  ! 
How  they  bowed  in  strict  obedience 
To  their  leader's  stern  ambition, 
Though  their  hollow  eyes  grew  sadder 
With  the  suffering  and  the  longing — 
With  the  wishful,  eager  throbbing 
Of  their  hearts  for  home  and  dear  ones  ! 
When  at  last  his  spirit  faltered, 
And  he  steered  his  vessel  homeward. 
How  those  dying  sailors  answered 
To  the  last  commands  he  uttered ! 
Though  he  seemed  so  strangely  sullen 
Their  allegiance  never  wavered. 
When,  heartbroken,  he  grew  silent. 
Still  the  voice  of  his  lieutenant 
Spoke  but  once,  to  have  his  answer 


15ERING  S    VOYAGE    TO    ALASKA.  23 

In  his  orders  strictly  carried  ; 

Thoueh  their  hmbs  refused  their  office 

And  one  man  upheld  another 

To  the  work,  that  bade  their  sail-boat 

Bear  them  back  to  Russia's  borders. 

Time  passed  on,  they  must  be  nearing, 

So  they  thought,  their  native  seaport ; 

And  they  strained  their  eyes  at  morning — 

Longing  gazed,  at  evening's  closing, 

For  the  welcome  hazy  outlines 

Of  the  coast  of  old  Kamtchatka  ; 

But,  alas  !  they  gazed  all  vainly — 

Hoped  and  longed  for  what  was  growing 

Distant  from  them,  as  the  vessel 

Bore  them  here  and  there,  false-euided — 

Rocked  them  in  its  sea-beat  bulwarks, 

Careless  that  those  suffering  seamen 

Found  at  last  all  hope  had  withered — 

Found  themselves  as  useless  timber, 

Sick  and  heartless,  sad,  storm-driven — 

Lost  upon  the  sea,  whose  waters 

Lave  the  shore  they  sadly  longed  for. 


24  ALASKAN  A. 

Wash  the  port  they  long-ed  to  enter. 
Numbed  with  cold  and  growing  weary, 
Powerless  now  to  reef  or  furl  them, 
Uselessly  the  sails  hung,  flapping 
Like  great  birds  of  evil  omen, 
Beating  with  their  taunting  pinions 
Dirges  for  the  crew  and  captain, 
Who  were  drifting  at  the  mercy 
Of  the  restless  winds  and  waters  ! 
"  Land  ahoy  !"     Alas  the  vessel 
Half  disabled,  almost  sinking, 
Feebly  turned  toward  the  haven  ; 
But  her  weakened  sails  were  helpless; 
When  they  anchored,  hawsers  parted — 
When  they  neared  the  shore  the  wave-caps 
Flaunted  in  their  eager  faces, 
Blinding  spray  and  briny  greetings — 
Chillinff  hearts  and  n u mbin or  fi nosers, 
Till  despair  once  more  reigned  over 
All  those  weary,  helpless  sailors. 
Then  at  last  the  mild  Pacific 
Raised  that  frail  bark  on  its  bosom — 


BERING  S  VOYAGE  TO  ALASKA.        25 

Raised  it  tenderly,  and  laid  it 

With  its  freiofht  of  human  sufferinor — 

With  its  heart-sick  crew  and  captain — 

High  and  safe  within  a  harbor. 

Safe  from  wind,  and  wave,  and  shipwreck, 

On  the  shores  of  fair  Alaska  ! 

Berinof  saw  the  land,  then  closinsf 

Once  for  all  his  weary  eyelids. 

Left  his  ashes  as  a  tribute 

To  the  isle  whereon  he  landed. 

But  his  name  has  lain  for  ages 

On  the  waters  that  his  sail-boat 

Cleft  with  prow  so  nearly  useless  ; 

And  the  men  who  braved  such  dangers 

Lived  to  show  to  coming  nations 

That  those  bleak,  wild  shores  are  laden 

Rich  with  wealth  for  those  with  spirits 

Bold  and  brave  enoug-h  to  win  it. 


ALASKA. 


PAR  to  North  and  West  there  nestles, 

Close  between  two  mighty  guardians- 
Held  within  the  soft  embraces 
Of  a  myriad  flashing  tendrils 
That  surround  and  touch  her  beauty 
With  their  moving,  glittering  jewels 
As  a  necklace,  gemmed  and  gilded, 
Decks  and  beautifies  the  wearer — 
Closely  nestles  fair  Alaska, 
Leaning  on  the  broad  Pacific ; 
Resting  on  the  throbbing  waters, 
Dipping  far  into  its  bosom — 
Bending  low  to  hear  its  music. 
And  to  see  her  own  wild  features 
(26) 


ALASKA.  27 

Gazing  out  from  bays  as  placid 
As  a  mirror's  polished  surface — 
Or  to  see  that  ima(re  broken 
Into  fragments  by  the  ripples, 
And  then  carried  by  them  onward, 
Till,  half  wearied  by  their  burden, 
Half  in  gleeful  sport,  they  fling  them — 
Brilliant  fragments  of  her  picture, 
Far  and  wide  beyond  their  reaching — 
Only  to  return  and  gather. 
Bear  away  and  gaily  scatter 
Other  bold  or  fair  reflections 
Of  her  nature  bright  and  chansfeful. 
On  the  north,  her  Arctic  guardian 
Frowns  upon  such  senseless  frolic 
And,  in  calm  and  stolid  duty. 
Bears  his  portion  of  her  wardship  ; 
Throws  his  giant  bulwarks  round  her, 
Sheathing  with  his  crystal  armor 
Every  tempting  curve  and  dimple 
When  she  smiles  upon  the  grimness — 
Holding  there,  in  pallid  stillness, 


28  ALASKANA. 

Faintest  outlines  of  her  contour, 
As  she  throws  her  slender  shadows 
Prone  upon  his  breast,  and  lingers 
Near  his  heart,  as  if  to  touch  him 
And  to  soften  with  her  presence 
Into  smiles  his  soulless  features. 
Coldly,  silently,  he  gathers 
Round  her  form  his  spotless  mantle — 
Wreathes  her  brow  with  purest  brilliants 
Chosen  from  his  royal  casket, 
And  around  her  casts  a  girdle, 
Silver  clear,  and  clasped  so  firmly 
That  no  hand  has  stren^jth  to  loosen 
From  his  bonds  her  Northern  borders  ! 
Fast  he  binds  the  dauntless  vessels 
That  have  tried  to  find  a  harbor 
On  the  coast  he  keeps  so  sacred ; 
For  he  holds  them  with  his  ice-chains 
That  but  wait  his  strong  upheaval 
To  reduce  their  brittle  timbers 
Into  useless,  splintered  wreckage. 
High  and  bold  her  mountain  ranges 


ALASKA.  29 

Crest  her  shore  and  dip  their  shadows 
Deep  into  the  dark  blue  sea  wells 
That  are  waveless,  as  if  awe  struck 
At  the  grand,  majestic  presence  ! 
Hills  with  verdure  topped  and  skirted, 
Valleys  gay  with  golden  poppies, 
Granite  crag,  with  naked  foreheads, 
Guarding  well  the  river  passes — 
Great  volcanoes,  cold  and  scar-seamed 
Resdng  from  their  fiery  belchings, 
Bearing  in  their  rough  crevasses 
Ghost-like  ashes  of  their  passion — 
Mountains,  rearing  snow-capped  summits 
Far  into  the  sun's  bright  kingdom — 
Ranges  over-topping  ranges, 
Darkly  frowning,  palely  ghost-like, 
Peering  through  the  clefts  once  riven 
By  some  shock  that  made  earth  tremble — 
Here  and  there  one,  taller,  nobler. 
Standing  forth  alone  and  peerless, 
Like  a  mighty  chief  in  armor, 
Holdinq;  converse  with  his  vassals, 


30  ALASKANA. 

But  with  grandly  king-like  bearing 
Binding  them  in  stern  subjection — 
Bidding  them  make  no  encroachments 
On  his  grey  and  stony  ramparts. 
All  upon  her  breast  upholden 
Are  these  tender  gems  of  beauty, 
Are  these  trackless  crags  and  mountains, 
And,  as  mothers  hold  their  children, 
With  no  frowningf  at  the  burden. 
Mighty  glaciers,  bound  for  ages 
To  her  brow  with  icy  fetters, 
Glow  in  varied  tints  of  azure. 
Like  a  crown  with  sapphire  setting ; 
And  the  tinkling  rills  and  streamlets 
Make  sweet  music  for  her  dreaming, 
As  they  drip,  and  run,  and  murmur 
From  their  coldly  sparkling  birth-place. 
Rivers  seam  her  glorious  landscape — 
Mighty  rivers,  broad  and  rapid. 
Made  to  bear  upon  their  bosoms — 
Safe  and  sure  to  bear  and  hold  them, 
Vessels  built  for  trade  or  travel — 


ALASKA.  31 

Ships  for  commerce,  large  and  noble — 
Daintier  crafts  for  eager  tourists, 
Or  canoes  like  skimming  swallows; 
Dashinor  rivers,  headlono-  rushinof — 
With  no  object  but  their  finding 
Some  clear  outlet  for  the  spirits 
Which  control  their  mad  careering — , 
Rivers,  too,  whose  quiet  currents 
Steal  their  way  through  narrow  passes 
Noiselessly,  as  if  the  canons 
Awed  their  hearts  to  abject  silence. 
Bays  indent  her  lovely  shore-lines 
With  their  placid,  tinted  faces, 
Beaming  In  a  thousand  dimples 
On  her  guards  of  granite  boulders  ; 
And  her  broad,  arterial  channels 
Lead  among  rich  island  beauties, 
That  bewilder  with  their  changes  ; 
Lead  throucrh  fairv  woodland  wonders 
And  through  Arctic  cold  and  silence — 
From  the  quivering  smiles  of  spring-time 
To  the  weird,  majestic  stillness 
That  surrounds  this  Ice-bound  kinedom. 


SITKA. 


T  OOK,  the  sound  is  faintly  tinted 
^     With  the  sun's  departing  glory! 
Where  the  mountains  frown  the  shadows 
Slowly  creep  to  darker  shading ; 
Tree-tops  bend  toward  the  water 
Where  their  pictures,  softly  mingling 
With  the  rippling  waves  and  eddies, 
Lose  themselves  in  chano-eful  frao-ments— 
Bound  and  bend  in  leafy  patches — 
On  the  crested  wavelets  dancing, 
In  the  glass-like  hollows  sinking, 
But  to  rise  agfain  and  elisten 
In  the  twilight's  lingering  beauty. 
Here  a  cup-like  blossom  tosses 
(32) 


SITKA.  :^^ 

Perfume,  like  a  dream  of  sweetness, 
To  the  breeze,  which  bears  it  onward 
Toward  the  sky  whose  bkie  is  rarest 
Where  the  misty  clouds  break  open. 
See  the  shades  of  pink  and  golden. 
Resting-  on  the  blue,  like  jewels — 
There  the  banks  of  gray  grow  rosy 
Where  the  glow  but  tips  their  edges ; 
And  the  waves,  reflectinof,  ofleaminp-. 
Re-repeat  the  cloud-land's  fairness, 
Till  the  air  is  brightly  laden 
With  the  evening's  tender  welcome. 
O'er  Verstova's  misty  grandeur 
Lights  and  shades  are  slowly  creeping, 
There  a  glint  of  gold  is  heightened 
By  a  line  of  velvet  darkness  ; 
Tints  of  pink  and  purple  blended 
Float  around  his  sides  and  paint  them — 
But  his  haughty  head  lifts  proudly 
Far  beyond  the  sunset  shading. 
O'er  it  rests  a  golden  halo, 
With  no  cloud  to  dim  its  glory. 


34  ALASKANA. 

Edgecumbe's  sides  blaze  riclier,  redder, 
Where  the  beaminii-  sunhcrht  jjilds  them  ; 
Here  and  there  a  snow-wreath  loiters 
To  enhance  his  lonely  splendor, 
While  the  night  seems  slowly  rising 
From  his  deep  and  silent  crater. 
Spreading  o'er  his  top  its  blackness 
Ere  it  shadows  earth  and  water. 
Hush  !     Across  the  sound's  clear  ripples 
Hear  the  silvery  chimes  repeating 
Notes  that  wake  the  sleeping  echoes 
In  the  mountain's  ruo'CTed  summit — 
Tones  that  ring  across  the  valleys 
And  reverberate  so  sweetly 
From  the  rocks  and  gloomy  caverns, 
Touching  every  point  and  crevice. 
And  rebounding,  waving,  rolling. 
In  one  glorious  diapason. 
Whence  the  sound  ?    Old  Sitka's  steeple 
Rears  itself  in  emerald  brightness 
Near  the  sound  and  in  the  valley, 
Where  the  quaint  old  town  is  nestled, 


SITKA. 

And  the  angelus  resounding 
Day-by-day  the  sound-waves  carry 
Far.  beyond  the  streets  and  dvvelHng-s — 
Up  and  out  till  nature  answers 
With  the  voice  that  bides  its  bidding 
In  the  dim  and  rock-bound  distance. 
In  the  church,  the  sacred  pictures 
Glow  with  plate  of  gold  and  silver, 
Gleam  with  rarely  precious  jewels, 
Out  from  which  the  tender  faces 
Shine  in  strange,  unearthly  beauty. 
Altar,  walls,  and  windows  glisten 
With  a  grandeur  gayly  brilliant. 
Which  the  church  of  Greece  has  chosen 
As  her  own  from  distant  ages. 
But  the    house  for  native  worship, 
Out  beyond  the  church's  shadow, 
Seems  to  lack  the  need  of  lasting. 
So  its  crumbling  walls  and  rafters 
Tell  that  soon  the  time  will  hasten 
When  the  only  sign  to  mark  it 
Will  be  crushed  and  broken  timbers  ! 


36  ALASKANA. 

Yet  Baranov  Castle  windows 
Gaze  across  the  bay  as  bravely 
As  when  orlancine  swords  and  helmets 
Held  it  safe  on  roof  and  rampart. 
And  the  halls  are  there  but  resting, 
From  the  sound  of  feast  and  revel ; 
And  the  polished  floors  are  silent 
Where  the  soldier's  tread  once  sounded. 
From  its  cupola  no  longer 
Floats  old  Russia's  royal  banner, 
And  the  light  glows  not  that  beckoned 
Many  an  anxious  crew  to  anchor 
In  the  harbor,  safe  and  peaceful. 
Ladies'  smiles  and  nobles'  laughter 
Mark  no  more  the  courtly  presence 
Of  the  guests  and  lordly  master 
Who,  for  years,  were  wont  to  gather 
In  the  rooms,  now  coldly  vacant. 
Hushed  and  still,  the  castle  watches 
O'er  the  old  forsaken  houses 
Dismally  and  surely  sinking. 
With  no  hand  to  stay  their  downfall. 


SITKA.  7,^ 

None  to  care  when  all  are  tumbled 

Into  rough  and  useless  rubbish  ! 

For  the  people,  sadly  listless, 

Have  reduced  to  meagre  numbers, — 

White  has  blent  with  native  savage, 

Until  each  has  lost  his  nature, 

And  the  Creoles  who  are  faithful 

To  their  city's  fading  glory, 

Only  live  in  hopeless  patience, 

With  no  enterprise  nor  courage 

To  rebuild  their  falling  dwellings, 

Or  resume  the  waves  of  traffic 

That  would  soon  restore  old  Sitka 

To  its  place  among  the  nations. 

Still  the  castle  guards  the  harbor, 

Once  alive  with  ships  and  sailors  ; 

Now,  perhaps,  a  lonely  vessel 

Swings  and  sways  within  the  current; — 

And  it  watches  o'er  the  islets 

That  like  glowing  gems  of  verdure 

Dot  and  deck  the  sound's  fair  surface ; 

O'er  the  mountain  crests  and  gorges, 


ALASltANA. 

O'er  the  old  volcanic  sentry, 
Who  will  stand  though  Sitka  trembles, 
Sinks  and  falls — till  braver  spirits 
See  the  future's  smiling  promise 
And  rebuild  the  falling-  city. 
Until  willing  hands  united 
Raise  again  the  "New  Archangel," 
And  once  more  its  shores  will  echo 
With  the  creak  of  masts  and  timbers. 
At  the  sound  of  life  the  valleys 
Shall  send  out  a  royal  welcome, 
In  their  blossoms  blue  and  golden, 
In  their  waving  plumes  of  grasses. 
Here  the  waves,  with  fishes  teeming. 
Hold  a  healthful,  ijlitterinor  harvest ; 
While  the  mountain  sides  are  traversed 
By  the  game  to  sportsmen  dearest. — 
Deer  and  grouse  in  countless  numbers 
Roam  amonof  the  brush  and  bramble, 
And  the  waters  tempt  the  wild-fowl 
To  display  their  varied  plumage  ; 
Ducks  and  swans  and  noisy  goslings 


SITKA.  39 

Splash  and  dive,  and  wake  the  welkin 
With  their  loud,  discordant  clamor, 
And  the  partridge  calls  and  scurries 
Throuorh  the  leaves  with  startlino^  rustle. 
So  with  land  so  fair  and  verdant, 
With  rich  food  supplies  abundant, 
And  with  ofold  and  silver  veininp; 
Rocky  heights  and  sandy  shallows, 
Holdinor  out  a  orlorious  harvest 
Toward  those  brave  enough  to  seek  it, — 
Sitka  must  not  sink  forever 
Out  of  sight,  of  mind,  and  being  ! 


ALASKAN  NATIVE  TRIBES. 


A 


ND  this  land  so  fraught  with  promise — 
Teeming  full  of  grandest  beauty — '■ 


Bearinof  untold  stores  of  fortune 
Underneath  its  varied  surface — 
Long  has  held  its  hidden  millions 
For  its  own  poor  heathen  natives. 
Some,  alas,  how  few  the  number ! 
Ages  back  received  and  cherished. 
And  they  still  hold  fast  the  doctrines 
Which  the  old  Greek  Church  bestowed  them  ; 
More,  with  souls  all  warped  by  witchcraft 
And  with  threatening  demon-worship, 
Live  like  hunted  beasts,  in  terror 
Of  some  lurking  danger  waiting 
(40) 


ALASKAN    NATIVE    TRIBES.  4I 

To  destroy  them  or  to  clog  tbiem 
With  persistent,  vengeful  venom  ! 
Others,  taking  life  more  gayly, 
Trust  to  spirits,  good  or  evil. 
Who  with  fateful  power  will  bear  them 
To  some  place  beyond  life's  border, 
When  or  where  they  do  not  question. 
Yet  these  soul-warped  people  ever 
Live  to  rules  firm  set  and  guarded, 
By  which  tribes  and  subdivisions 
Know  and  hold  the  land  assigned  them, 
Certain  that  the  bold  encroacher 
Pays  most  sadly  for  his  folly. 
The  Orarians  take  precedence, 
Classed  as  Esquimaux  or  Innuits, 
Dark  Creoles,  and  sturdy  Aleuts — 
These  hold  close  along  the  seaboard, 
Claiming  nearly  all  the  coast-line 
And  the  islands  near  adjoining  ; — 
Save  where  here  and  there  the  Indians 
Have  and  hold  small  coast  possessions, 
Which  tliey  won  by  force  or  cunning. — 


42  ALASKANA. 

Livinor  close  beside  the  ocean, 

These  brave  tribes  fear  not  its  racfing-, 

But  they  face  its  foaming  billows 

Coolly  daring,  using  mostly 

Boats  their  own  skilled  hands  have  fashioned 

From  the  skins  of  great  sea-lions, 

From  the  hides  of  seal  or  walrus, 

Called  Bidarras  or  Bidarkas, — 

As  their  size  and  weight  should  warrant, — 

Or  canoes  of  graceful  outline — 

Light  kyacks,  that  skim  the  water — 

Made  from  logs  of  fragrant  cedar, 

Made  from  graceful  trunks  of  cedar, 

Which  they  scoop  out  smooth  and  neatly  ; 

Then  they  lash  each  end  securely 

And  they  fill  the  hollows,  brimming 

To  the  edge  with  sparkling  water. 

Therein  plunging  stones,  so  heated 

That  a  cloud  of  steam  arises. 

In  they  throw  them  till  the  "dug-outs" 

Can  no  longer  hold  another — 

These  they  cover  over  closely, 


ALASKAN    NATIVE    TRIBES.  43 

Making  steam  the  prisoned  agent 

In  the  work  they  wish  accompHshed. 

By  and  by  the  trunks  are  pliant, 

When  they  shape  the  boats  by  placing 

Stays  across,  so  finely  graded 

That  the  forms  q-tow  almost  swanlike 

In  their  slender,  tapering  outlines. 

Dried  and  painted,  carved  and  polished. 

With  some  emblematic  figures 

At  the  prows  to  guide  them  safely, 

Forth  they  dart  with  wondrous  fleetness: 

Light  as  down  they  ride  the  billows. 

Holding  safe  the  fearless  boatmen, 

Who  with  skilful   strokes  can   guide  them 

Where  the  prey  is  fat  and  plenty. 

These,  with  spears,  and  hooks,  and  bludgeons, 

Aid  the  dauntless  navigators 

In  their  quest  of  fish  or  walrus, 

Pondrous  whales  or  soft-furred  otter. 

Which  supply  their  food  in  season, 

And  their  clothing,  shoes,  and  vessels 

Which  they  carve  with  strange  devices, 


44  ALASKANA. 

But  witli  skill  and  grace  surprising. 

All  array  themselves  in  garments 

Made  of  skins  their  arts  have  taken — 

And  they  fashion  them  for  comfort, 

Though  with  doubtful  grace  or  beauty, 

Save  a  few  who  deck  the  borders 

Richly  bright  with  quills  and  fringes, 

Or  with  furs  of  varied  shading, 

Forming  wraps  grotesque  and  startling. 

Some  choose  bird-breasts,  bright  and  downy. 

And  combine  with  skins  so  deftly 

That  the  feathers  gleam  like  jewels 

In  the  soft,  fine  fur  imbedded. 

While  the  Innuits  carve  and  fashion 

Tools  and  vessels,  blades  and  axes, 

With  a  skill  and  style,  unrivalled 

Save  by  talents  trained  and  cultured, 

Quietly  the  Aleut  gathers 

Grass  and  weeds  and   weaves  them  deftly 

Into  mats  and  tiny  boxes, 

Into  fine,  close-woven  baskets. 

That  will  hold  and  carry  water, — 


ALASKAN    NATIVE    TRIBES.  45 

Baskets  that  are  used  as  kettles 

Into  which  hot  stones  drop  hissing, 

Seething,  steaming,  sputtering,  singing, 

Till  the  water  boils  and  bubbles, 

Just  as  though  an  iron  caldron 

Held  it  o'er  a  blazing  furnace  ! 

Full  of  talents,  ripe  and  ready 

For  some  guiding  hands  to  polish 

To  a  full  and  round  completeness. 

To  most  useful  heights  of  culture  ; 

Still  these  people  are  repulsive 

With  their  horrid  taste  in  changing 

Nature's  work  to  savage  notions 

Of  what  constitutes  true  beauty ; 

For  some  pierce  their  lips  and  spread  them 

With  labrets,  whose  painful  presence 

They  regard  as  most  symmetric  ! 

And  their  food  !    how  can  we  call  it 

By  that  name  !  Their  fearful  dishes 

Were  unfit  to  cast  for  feedinor 

To  our  lowest,  meanest  creatures  ! 

Putrid  oil,  whose  faintest  odor 


46  ALASKANA. 

Sweetest  perfume  could  not  smother  ! 

Fish  with  fibres  fast  divorcing 

From  its  bones,  they  treat  as  dainties, 

While  the  moose  and  deer  and  walrus, 

Fish  and  water-fowl  and  sea-fish, 

Cooked  or  not,  as  suits  convenience. 

With  no  salt  nor  other  flavor 

Form  their  constant,  yearly  diet ! 

For  their  homes  they  make  rude  dwellings. 

Mostly  underground  and  dismal. 

With  no  light  but  burning  blubber, 

With  no  pure,  clear  air  for  breathing; 

And  the  only  signs  to  know  them 

Are  the  mound-like  roofs,  grass-covered, 

With  one  hole  for  smoke  escaping 

And  another  made  for  entrance. 

Here  they  live,  but  make  long  journeys, 

Huntinof  richest  furs  for  traffic; 

Softest  seal  and  costliest  otter, 

Warlus  hides  and  tusks  for  ivory. 

Whales  for  litjht  and  food  and  barter, 

And  for  bones  to  roof  their  houses. 


ALASKAN    NATIVE    TRIBES.  4/ 

While  great  fishes  without  number 
Come  to  keep  in  food  the  natives 
Whose  strange  hfe  we  cannot  fathom. 
Next  the  Indian  tribes  hold  province 
Over  all  the  inland  portions, 
And  their  war-like  spirits  keep  them 
Free  from  most  marauding  neighbors. 
They  are  brave,  courageous  hunters, 
Bold  and  reckless,  daring  fishers, 
Wild  and  fierce  when  raised  to  battle. 
But  most  abject  in  their  terror 
Of  the  spirits  that  surround  them. 
Of  the  witches  and  the  demons, 
Of  the  Shamans  that  can  blast  them, 
Of  the  very  air  close  swarming 
With  vile  wraiths,  forever  watching 
For  some  chance  to  do  them  evil ! 
Tinnehs,  T'linkets,  Hydahs,  Chilkats, 
Chilkoots,  Tongas  and  some  others, 
With  whose  names,  we  cannot  trifle, — 
Hunt  and  fish  and  stand  for  baro-ains 
Selling  high  and  buying  cheaply. 


48  ALASKANA. 

Showing,  poor,  benighted  creatures, 
Some  sHght,  shadowy  resemblance 
To  a  race  not  quite  so  savage, 
To  a  people  fair  and  cultured  ! 
Here  again,  born  artists  chisel. 
With  most  wonderful  designing, 
Tools  for  work,  and  bowls  and  dishes 
Cut  from  stones  and  wood  and  metal, 
Bracelets  wrought  in  graven  silver, 
Labrets,  that  claim  admiration 
As  they  hold  their  strange  position 
In  the  scarred,  distorted  visage 
Of  some  favored  village  beauty. 
And  their  lofty  tribal  totems 
Carved  in  forms  so  weird  and  awful, 
Graved  in  shapes  so  oddly  fearful, 
That  uprise  to  prove  the  standing 
Of  the  house  by  which  they  tower. 
But  of  all  their  works  none  equal 
In  the  texture  and  the  finish, 
In  the  fine  and  tempting  softness, 
;        And  their  oddly  wrought  designing, 


ALASKAN    NATIVE    TRIBES.  49 

Those  gay  bordered  T'linket  blankets, 

Traced  in  colors  bright  or  sombre, 

Of  the  finest  fleeces  woven 

And  inwrought  with  totem  figures, 

Fringed  and  stained  with  dyes  tiiat  rival 

Persia's  precious  shades  in  beauty ; 

Or  some  bleached  to  equal  eider, 

In  their  fluffy,  snowy  plumpness. 

These  are  used  as  money  value 

In  their  many  modes  of  traffic. 

In  their  great,  important  podatch, 

And  in  sacrificial  offerings 

To  the  gods  who  need  appeasing 

For  some  fancied  slight  or  insult. 

Few  or  many,  are  cremated 

With  the  dead  who  sadly  need  them 

On  their  journey  to  the  country 

Where  no  blankets  are  provided. 

They,  with  food  and  clothes  are  drifted 

In  the  blaze  of  pines  and  spruces, 

Far  beyond  the  world's  environs 

To  their  ghost -land,  vaguely  distant. 


50  ALASKANA. 

All  these  tribes  are  subdivided 

Into  smaller  tribes  or  classes, 

Each  regarding  some  wild  creature 

As  its  patron  saint  exclusive. 

With  great  pride  they  place  its  image, 

Carved  or  painted,  stained  or  woven, 

Upon  all  their  strange  belongings, 

Adding  beasts  or  birds  or  fishes, 

When  a  woman  joins  their  number, 

As  the  marriage- rite  makes  lawful 

That  her  badge  should  grace  the  totem 

To  her  husband's  class  belonging. 

Yet  these  women  are  but  servants. 

Bought  and  sold  or  vilely  treated, 

Forced  to  take  beyond  their  bearing 

Cruel  pain  past  all  believing. 

And  to  toil  while  life  permits  it, 

Lacking  even  beast-like  comfort 

In  the  hour  of  fiercest  trial! 

So  they  live,  these  darkened  heathens 

In  the  land  so  fair  and  lovely. 

In  the  home  of  grandest  landscapes, 


ALASKAN    NATIVE    TRIBES.  5  I 

Of  sweet  sounds  and  richest  beauties, — 
So  o'erhungwith  superstitions, 
So  beclouded  with  rude  customs 
That  the  lieart  grows  sick  with  longing 
For  the  spirit  light  to  wake  them 
From  their  long  and  dreary  midnight, 
From  this  cruel  pagan  darkness  ! 


ALG/E  OF  ALASKA. 


A  FTER  storms  have  tossed  the  ocean 
'^     And  old  Bering's  waves  are  troubled- 
When  the  whids  have  whipped  with  fury, 
Till  the  foamed  and  writhing  breakers 
Flinof  themselves  in  wild  confusion 
Far  along  the  earth's  environs, 
Far  across  the  beach  that  ripples 
With  the  fierce,  recoiling  surges — 
Walk  along  the  shores  and  count  them, 
All  those  wondrous  trunks  and  branches, 
All  the  stems  of  kelp  and  mosses 
That  the  rude  sea-waves  have  gathered 
From  the  deep,  pellucid  gardens 
Down  beneath  the  glossy  waters. 

(52) 


ALG/E    OF    ALASKA.  53 

There  the  lonQf,  briofht  trunks  and  streamers 
Lie  in  heaps,  all  gaily  mottled, 
By  the  tints  of  leaf  and  tendril, 
And  anemones,  still  throbbing 
With  the  life  that  soon  must  perish 
When  the  sun's  reflection  strikes  them, — 
When  the  YiQ-ht  and  air  have  stolen 
All  their  sea-born  life  and  moisture. 
See  them  now,  a  quivering  parterre, 
Spread  along  the  sweeping  sea-line  ; 
Orange,  gold,  and  shades  of  purple, 
Tender  pink  and  glaring  crimson — 
There  they  lie  as  bright  as  blossoms, 
And  their  slender  threads  move  lightly 
As  the  quivering,  wind-touched  stamens 
Of  the  sweet-breathed  water-lily 
Touch  them  with  a  hand  so  gentle 
That  the  down  should  not  be  ruffled 
On  a  butterfly's  frail  plumage 
If  his  gauzy  wings  had  felt  it — 
And  they  shrink  away  and  tighten 
All  their  trembling,   waving  fingers. 


54  ALASKANA. 

That  a  moment  since,  were  reaching 

In  such  strangely  searching  fashion — 

Close  them  tight  and  lie  as  quiet 

As  tho*  stilled  and  closed  forever  ! 

Wait,  and  they  will  slowly  open 

And  resume  the  nervous  motion, 

Till  at  last  they  die  and  wither, 

Lacking  ocean  food  and  moisture. 

Rosy  "  sea-squirts,"  pale  "  cucumbers," 

Asteroids  and  jelly-fishes, 

Crabs  with  shells  of  green  and  azure. 

Marked  with  sharp,  deep  crimson  edges, 

Lie  in  odd,  uncouth  positions, 

Creep  along  the  slippery  windrows, 

Eating  holes  in  dying  grasses 

That  have  changed  from  green  to  yellow. 

Dingy  brown,  and  slimy  blackness, — 

All  the  colors  mingling  strangely, 

Moving,  too,  in  queer  commotion 

When  a  crab  has  noticed  something 

That  will  suit  his  roving  fancy — 

Or  when  some  poor,  shivering  creature, 


ALG.-E    OF    ALASKA.  55 

Longing  for  its  native  sea-home, 
Makesa  stronor,  but  useless,  effort 
To  regain  the  tempting  waters. 
All  alono-  the  island  beaches 
Great  sea-weeds  in  tangled  masses 
Pile  in  rifts  as  snow  is  drifted, 
Here  in  hills,  and  there,  like  carpet, 
Stretched  along  the  sand,  exposing 
Plants,  whose  quivering  life  resemble 
That  of  some  brigfht  flower  or  insect ; — 
Animals,  like  plants  in  motion — 
Making  rich,  confusing  pictures 
For  the  traveller's  wondering  vision. 
Off  the  coasts  the  kelp  grows  rampant, — 
With  its  roots  securely  anchored 
Fathoms  deep,  it  stretches  upward. 
Coast-wise,  when  the  tide  is  rising — 
Floatinof  out  in  tumbled  streamers 
When  the  ebb  has  left  its  branches 
As  a  mark  to  show  how  daring 
Was  their  late,  but  welcome  visit. 
In  some  parts  it  grows  so  densel)' 


56  ALASKANA. 

That  its  constant-movinor  branches 
Form  great  rafts  for  seal  and  walrus 
To  enjoy  their  long  siestas, 
Or  to  sport  upon,  unmindful 
How  the  waves  are  tossed  and  rippled. 
Ships  have  found  a  barrier  meet  them 
Where  no  rock  nor  shoal  is  sounded, 
But  where  kelp  and  grasses  matted, 
Twist  with  each  wild  sweep  and  eddy 
Till  they  grow  as  strong  as  hawsers 
And  the  ship-keels  cannot  break  them. 
When  the  time  of  storm  is  over, 
And  these  tons  of  moss  all  landed, 
Natives  seek  the  coasts  and  gather 
Loads  of  such  to  use  for  fuel ; 
And  their  crackling  fires  gleam  ruddy 
With  the  storm-tossed  ocean's  tribute. 
Birds  collect  the  air-dried  remnants 
For  their  rude  and  careless  nesting. 
Hungry  birds,  in  countless  thousands. 
Tear  the  sea-shell's  slimy  tenants 
From  their  homes  of  pearl-like  beauty, 


ALG^    OF    ALASKA.  57 

Which  the  kelp's  tenacious  fingers 
Have  upborn  from  Neptune's  chamber. 
Fishes  swarm  in  such  profusion, 
In  among  each  floating  store-house, 
That  a  boat  may  load  to  sinking 
Ere  the  poor,  affrighted  swimmers 
Can  escape  the  active  fishers, 
Who  have  watched,  with  hungry  longing 
For  those  dainty,  fresh  additions 
To  their  scantly-furnished  larders. 
Thus  the  sea,  whose  various  tempers 
Ever  hold  unbounded  revels — 
Wage  unceasing,  reckless  warfare 
With  the  winds  from  Northern  borders, 
And  from  East  and  West,  alternate — 
Seems  to  sometimes  grow  remorseful 
That  its  rage  should  lead  to  suff'ring, — 
That  poor  human  frames  must  perish 
While  it  yields  to  wild  indulgence 
Of  its  rash,  unbridled  passion — 
And  it  throws  across  his  pathway 
Food  in  fishes,  birds,  and  mammals  ; 


58  AI.ASKANA. 

Rafts,  on  which  they  float  toward  him, 
Where  his  kyack  could  not  battle 
With  the  tumbling,  tearing  breakers  ; 
And  supplies  from  out  its  lockers 
Fuel,  charged  with  heat  as  fervid 
As  the  pine-tree's  wood  could  furnish. 
And,  because  no  garden  flora 
E'er  can  cheer  the  stormy  region. 
Lovely  tints  and  changeful  shadings 
Come  from  out  the  sea  to  tell  him 
Something  of  the  world's  brio-ht  store-house 
And  its  teeming  wealth  of  beauty. 


FLORA  IN  ALASKA. 


T  11  THERE  the  pine  trees  rear  their  branches, 

"  '     Where  the  spicy,  healthful  perfumes 
Of  a  myriad  fadeless  needles 
Waft  themselves  with  every  wind-breath, 
Fling  themselves  in  rich  profusion, 
Thouofh  no  mortal  feels  the  virtue — 
Though  the  sweetness  and  the  verdure 
Win  no  voice  of  admiration, 
And  no  grateful  heart  bounds  lightly 
In  response  to  such  a  welcome : — 
There  the  shaded  mosses  linger, 
Spreading  carpets,  soft  and  springy, 
That  betray  no  wandering  footsteps, 
Though  the  tread  be  bold  and  heedless. 

(59) 


6o  ALASKANA. 

Round  a  blighted  stump  they  nestle, 

Touching  here  and  there  their  rootlets, 

Asking  only  room  for  foothold 

If  the  wind  should  strike  them  rudely. 

In  return  they  grace  its  boldness 

With  festoons  of  gray-toned  laces  ; 

While  the  sister  mosses  gather 

At  its  feet  in  tiny  hillocks, 

Lifting  up  their  cup-like  blossoms — 

Russet  blooms,  minute  and  perfect — 

On  their  stems,  so  fine  and  slender, 

That  the  faintest  stir  around  them 

Sets  the  timid  flowers  a-quiver, 

Bends  them  down,  but  does  not  break  them 

For  they  toss  their  heads  up  gaily 

When  the  breeze  has  touched  and  left  them 

Deep  within  the  dark  recesses 

Of  the  weird,  primeval  forest 

Mosses  stand  like  mimic  copses, — 

Here  and  there  a  taller  seedling 

Looming  high  above  its  comrades. 

Like  a  giant  in  the  woodland. 


FLORA    IN    ALASKA.  6 1 

Darkest  green,  relieved  by  shading 
Almost  white,  where  tender  patches 
Spread  abroad  to  hide  the  remnants 
Of  its  neighbor,  dead  and  withered, 
Make  the  pliant,  mossy  pathway 
Through  the  mystic  wood  so  lovely, 
That  it  seems  a  stranger  footstep 
Should  not  mar  the  simple  beauty. 
Fear  not,  for  those  stems  will  humbly 
Sink  beneath  the  instant  pressure, 
And  uplift  again  their  leaflets 
Proudly  as  a  lofty  cedar  ! 
O'er  the  rudest  rocks  the  sphagnum 
Creeps  and  spreads  its  wiry  fibres. 
But  its  modest  worth  forbids  it 
To  assert  itself  too  boldly  ; 
So  it  threads  its  dainty  net- work 
Over  and  around  the  rock-face. 
But  its  cool,  gray  shading  always 
Looks  so  like  the  craggy  surface 
That  a  close  inspection  only 
Can  convince  a  doubting  gazer, 


62  ALASKANA. 

Till  he  sees  the  tremblin"^  motion. 

Like  a  photographed  vibration, 

Making  every  lacy  leaflet 

Rise  and  fall,  in  wavelike  ripples. 

If  the  gentlest  winds  but  kiss  it 

On  their  way  to  distant  valley, 

Here  and  there  a  stony  fastness, 

Where  no  trees  nor  grass  can  flourish, 

Blooms  in  richest  shades  of  ochre, 

Gold  and  bronze  and  purple  timings. 

For  the  clinging  hchens  paint  it 

Till  it  seems  a  broken  rainbow 

Has  been  caught  and  firmly  fastened 

To  the  frowninof  cracks  and  boulders. 

Spruces  wave  their  drooping  pennons, 

Each  new  tip  of  palest  verdure 

Resting  on  the  darker  greenness. 

Like  a  graceful,  tinted  feather, 

Down  toward  the  mossy  bedding 

Branches  droop,  and  sweep  the  seed-cones 

Till  they  loose  their  tightened  cases. 

And  the  ripened  seeds  releasing 


FLORA    IN    ALASKA.  63 

Send  them  on   tlieir  wing-tipped  mission. 
Hemlocks  toss  their  plumes,  supplying 
With  their  slender,  ripened  leaflets, 
For  the  creeping  vines  and  mosses 
Tempting  beds  of  restful  fragrance. 
Sometimes  safe  in  sheltered  places 
Shadowy  cedars,  grow  and  flourish, 
And  their  conelike  heads  point  upward, 
While  their  hearts  refuse  to  hasten 
From  the  earth  that  fed  and  brouofht  them 
To  their  sweet,  but  sombre  beauty. 
Stunted  pines,  with  daring  venture, 
Climb  the  mountains'  lofty  summits, 
Satisfied,  if  but  a  foothold 
Gives  to  them  the  place  of  honor 
Far  above  their  stately  brothers. 
Apples  grow,  but  hard  and  bitter 
Is  the  fruit  they  give  in  payment. 
For  the  noonday  sun  that  warms  them 
For  the  rain  that  feeds  their  rootlets ; 
And  their  trunks  grow  rough  and  gnarly, 
Though  the  winds  but  touch  them  gently, 


64  ALASKANA. 

As  they  pass  to  tell  the  wonders 
Of  their  wild  and  icy  birthplace. 
Briars  steal  along  the  cliff-sides, 
Stretch  to  catch  unwary  branches, 
Wander  in  and  out  unquestioned 
Over  rocks  and  stony  margins ; 
Peering  through  the  dark  recesses 
Of  the  long,  untrampled  jungles, 
Where  no  foot  of  man  has  ever 
Crushed  the  moss   or  torn  the  bramble- 
Where  no  hand  has  ere  unbended 
To  receive  the  purple  berries, 
That  are  hung  in  tempting  clusters 
Over  brinks  and  rocky  ledges, 
Hidden  under  thorny  thickets, 
Nodding  from  the  topmost  leaf-sprays. 
Or  upon  the  ground  lie  bursting 
With  their  weight  of  ripened  juices. 
Strawberries,  with  pale,  shy  blossoms, 
Hide  away  in  sheltered  corners 
And,  when  tiny  fruit  is  ripened. 
Clasp  it  close  beneath  their  leaflets, 


1, 


Primeval  Forest. 


FLORA    IN    ALASKA.  65 

As  if  loath  to  let  its  beauty 
Tempt  some  eager  hand  to  gather 
And  to  test  the  promised  sweetness. 
Whortleberries,  bold  and  gracious, 
Reach  their  tinted  fruit,  inviting 
Every  passer-by  to  cull  them. 
And  enjoy  Alaskan  bounty. 
Cranberries,  with  rosy  blushes. 
Tempt  the  feet  to  trend  the  tangle 
Where  they  hold,  with  stunted  maple, 
And  with  nodding  plumes  of  alder, 
Undisturbed  and  free  possession 
Of  the  rich  and  oozy  marshes- 
Fallen  trunks  of  forest  monarchs. 
Dead  themselves,  supply  nutrition 
To  a  myriad  vines  and  bushes, 
Mosses,  lichen,  tiny  tree-tops, 
That  will  sometimes  stride  their  root-tips 
Either  side  the  stricken  tree-stems, 
Living  monuments  erecting 
To  the  silent,  lifeless  cedars. 
To  the  pines  and  balmy  spruces, 


66  ALASKANA. 

Holding  tender,  requiem  music 
In  dieir  young  and  sturdy  branches 
And  diffusing'  softest  shadinof 
Lest  the  sunlight  fall  too  brightly. 
Grasses  grow  in  rich  profusion, — 
Tall  and  stately  plumes  upraising 
As  they  toss  their  tiny  seed-pods 
Far  and  wide  across  the  valley, — 
Looking  as  they  bend  and  flutter 
Like  a  field  of  snowy  feathers  ; 
Or,  they  creep  along  the  margins 
Of  the  bays  and  inland  channels, 
Spreading  richly  verdant  carpets 
Close  beside  the  gleaminof  waters. 
Dipping,  now  and  then,  their  leaf-points 
Till  their  emerald  brightness  touches 
Here  and  there  the  yellow  sea-moss 
As  it  waves  and  stretches  landward 
With  the  tide,  whose  ebb  and  flowing 
Bids  it  wave  and  toss  forever  ! 
Fields  of  heather,  gayly  studded 
With  the  blooms  of  phlox  and  gentian — 


FLORA    IN    ALASKA.  6/ 

Phlox,  in  white  and  rosy  shading  ; 

Gentians,  softly  blue  and  purple  ; — 

Saxifrage,  with  tiny  blossoms, 

Bunched  in  heads  of  downy  beauty, 

Touched  with  pencil  tips  of  color 

Underneath  their  bristlingf  stamens, 

Nod  and  dance  as  winds  run  races 

Through  the  clumps  of  moss  and  heather. 

Here  and  there  a  stately  iris 

Throws  its  flag  to  catch  the  breezes, 

Who  betray  the  dark  blue  veinings 

Of  the  modest  inner  petals. 

Mustard  lifts  its  spicy  yellow, 

Bold  and  briorht,  in  strikine  contrast 

To  the  timid  chickweed  blossom, 

Or  the  violet,  shyly  hidden 

Underneath  some  fallen  tree-leaves, 

Or  a  bramble's  trailing  tendrils. 

Gay  nasturtiums  flaunt  their  splendor. 

Though  no  eye  should  e'er  behold  them, 

Seeming  to  delight  in  spreading 

Painted  leaves  and  subtle  perfume 


68  ALASKANA. 

To  the  breezes,  who  may  carry 

Where  they  will,  the  fairy  burden. 

Dandelions'  sunny  faces 

Smile  above  their  spreading  leaf-pads ; 

And  angelica,  so  stately. 

Holds  its  stalks  above  the  earth-mould, 

Catching  in  its  myriad  petals 

Spicy  juices,  sweet  and  wholesome. 

There  a  field  of  graceful  poppies 

Bow  their  golden  heads  demurely. 

Fling  them  back  in  gleeful  rapture, 

Toss  them  this  and  that  way,  gayly. 

As  the  winds  in  joyful  frolic 

Through  their  slender  branches  wander. 

Fungi,  scarlet,  purple,  pallid. 

With  a  hue  of  death  upon  them. 

Spring  above,  and  hide  the  ashes 

Which  has  furnished  all  their  fibres 

With  their  life,  their  strength,  their  color! 

Mushrooms  break  the  mould,  and  grace  it 

With  their  knobs  as  white  as  snow-drift. 

While  beneath  their  gills  they  carry 


FLORA    IN    ALASKA.  69 

Softest  tints  of  pink  and  purple, 
And  the  puff-balls  ape  their  beauty, 
But  betray  themselves  when  opened. 
By  the  dust  and  germ-life  hidden 
In  their  pale,  deceitful  centres. 
Everywhere  that  root  can  fasten, 
Or  that  tendril-tip  can  enter, 
Pulses  with  the  life  of  something, 
Be  it  plant,  or  tree,  or  blossom, 
While  the  summer  holds  its  recent 
O'er  these  fair  Alaskan  islands. 


BIRDS  OF  ALASKA. 


PAR  above  the  pines  and  cedars 

Where  no  tree  nor  leaf  can  flourish, 
On  the  roughest  crag's  and  mountains 
Dwells  the  eagle,  boldly  nesting 
Where  the  rudest  winds  may  revel, 
Where  the  sun  his  fiercest  torches 
Casts  across  his  vision  daily, 
While  he  looks  in  careless  patience 
At  the  rise  and  fall  of  greatness, 
Which  is  ever  thrown  before  him, 
As  the  sun  rides  forth  in  glory 
And  departs  in  dusky  shadows. 
Down  he  swoops,  when  hunger  bids  him, 
Or  when  nestlings  call  attention 

(70) 


BIRDS    OF    ALASKA.   '  7 1 

To  the  bleaching  bones,  which  hold  not 

Food  for  such  imperial  gourmands. 

Over  hills  he  sails  and  watches 

For  a  lamb,  whose  fleecy  tangle 

In  his  talons  held  securely, 

Makes  his  life  a  ready  offering 

To  the  greedy  birds  in  waiting  ; 

Or  a  kid,  one  moment  boundine 

On  the  mountain  side,  then  bleating 

Far  above  its  mother's  vision, 

Tells  the  story  of  his  hunting  ; 

Or  perhaps  he  robs  the  water 

Of  some  silver-tinted  fishes, 

And  then,  screaming,  flapping,    soaring, 

Homeward  turns  to  sit  and  ponder 

On  the  earth  so  strangely  blended. 

Of  such  bright  and  useless  beauty, 

Of  such  wasteful  tracks  of  verdure. 

And  his  own  most  noble  station — 

Far  above  all  other  bird-life — 

Far  above  man's  low  dominion  ! 

Croaking  ravens  preen  their  plumage, 


72  ALASKANA. 

Near  the  doorsteps,  on  the  pathways, 
Wander  where  they  Hst,  not  mindful 
Whether  man  or  beast  is  nigh  them  ; 
For  their  sacred  reputation 
Keeps  them  safe  from  every  danger. 
Swallows  skim  the  crystal  streamlets, 
Tip  their  wings  along  the  heather, 
Twitter  busily,  but  softly, 
Near  their  nests  beneath  the  ledges, 
Call  their  young  with  anxious  voices. 
Watching  tenderly  their  efforts 
When  at  first  they  spread  their  pinions 
Timidly,  then  braver  growing. 
Venture  forth  in  quest  of  insects, 
Or  to  feel  the  joyous  rapture 
Of  a  pure  and  free  existence. 
Note  the  ptarmigan's  low  calling, 
As  it  goes  from  hills  to  hedges. 
Flying  low  and  swiftly,  running 
Underneath  the  weeds  and  bushes, 
Peeping  out  in  timid  wonder 
If  a  sound  disturbs  the  quiet, 


BIRDS    OF    ALASKA.  73 

And  then  lying  closely  silent 

Till  all  danger  has  departed, 

Leaving  it  to  call  its  comrades 

Who  had  scattered  when  the  bushes 

Rustled  with  a  footfall's  sounding, 

Or  the  wind  too  loudly  blowing. 

Here  and  there,  a  tiny  bunting, 

Telling  of  the  snow-crowned  summits 

In  the  icy  north-wind's  province, 

Flutters  close  enouc:h  to  p-ather 

Crumbs  that  may  have  dropped  and  scattered, 

And  then  hies  away,  not  thinking 

Of  the  lesson  it  has  wafted 

In  its  short,  confiding  visit. 

Whale-birds  brino-  a  welcome  message 

To  the  Mah-le-moot,  whose  longing 

Finds  a  hope  almost  a  surety 

Of  the  food  he  needs  for  winter. 

When  he  sees  the  bird  approaching 

And  he  hears  its  note  of  warning. 

When  he  sees  the  bird  he  hastens 

To  the  shore  and  waits  and  watches 


74  ALASKANA. 

Till  the  waters  roll  and  ripple, 

Till  the  prey  comes  near  and  nearer, 

Then  his  sharp  harpoon  he  buries 

Deep  within  the  monster's  vitals, 

And  awaits  the  time  of  safety 

To  secure  the  precious  sea-prize, 

Which  he  shares  in  willing  favor 

With  the  bird  who  lingers  near  him, 

Knowing  that  some  dainty  morsel 

Will  reward  his  patient  waiting. 

Flocks  of  geese,  with  swift-winged  leaders, 

Rend  the  air  with  piercing  screeches, 

As  they  fly  toward  the  islands 

Where  their  young  can  grow  in  safety; 

Where  no  fox  nor  lynx  can  bury 

In  their  necks  their  cruel  teeth-points, 

Nor  affright  them  from  their  nest-place 

Until  eofSfs  are  cold  and  lifeless. 

Arries  flock  in  countless  thousands 

On  the  rocks  of  treeless  islands, 

Where  the  natives  follow,  taking 

From  their  midst  the  eggs  that  give  them 


BIRDS    OF    ALASKA.  75 

Valued  wares  for  orain  or  commerce, 
Or  as  food,  both  ricli  and  wholesome. 
Auks,  in  quaint  and  homely  fashion, 
Stand  and  contemplate  the  ocean. 
Waddle  close  beside  the  wave-line, 
And  then  hustle,  plunge  and  scramble 
Back  again,  to  taste  at  leisure 
Of  the  fish  they  catch  so  deftly 
That  they  rarely  need  two  efforts 
To  obtain  a  scale-brio^ht  dinner. 
Screaming  gulls,  like  falling  snow-storms, 
Land  in  flocks  along  the  sea-shore, 
Wander  far  beyond  the  breakers, 
And  return  to  rest  and  nestle 
Where  their  feeble  young  are  waiting 
For  their  time  of  swift  departure 
On  those  glorious,  free-winged  journeys  ! 
And  the  welcome  "  choochkies"  linger 
Near  enough  for  men  to  gather 
Hundreds  of  their  tempting  bodies 
In  such  nets  as  serve  for  fishing, 
Furnishing  such  dainty  tid-bits 


76  ALASKANA. 

As  an  epicure  should  envy. 

And  die  noisy,  chattering  sparrows  * 

Make  short,  periodic  visits 

To  the  loneHest,  weirdest  islands. 

Daunted  not,  though  each  migration 

Shows  their  numbers  sadly  lessened, 

And  the  flocks,  reduced  by  thousands, 

Turn  again  to  climes  more  genial. 

Leaving  plump  and  tender  comrades 

To  regale  the  Aleut  palate, 

While  the  bones  of  more  lie  bleaching 

On  the  dreary,  sunless  beaches. 


*  See  Note  in  Appendix. 


A  HUMMING-BIRD  IN  SITKA. 


"\X  7^  HENCE  it  comes  it  cannot  tell  you, 
'         Though  you  ask  it  low  and  earnest, 
Though  you  think  by  tender  phrases 
You  may  win  the  thrilling  story 
Of  its  travels  from  the  south-land — 
From  the  land  where  balmy  breezes 
Toss  the  perfume-laden  blossoms 
Till  their  breath  is  full  of  sweetness 
Stolen  from  the  blooms  of  locust, 
From  the  starry,  yellow  jasmine, 
From  the  tender,  pallid  beauty 
Of  the  groves  of  palm  and  orange. 
You  may  hope  to  hear  some  message, 
Though  it  be  so  faintly  spoken 

(77) 


78  ALASKANA. 

That  your  ear  must  form  the  seutence. 
From  the  fitful,  dreamy  whispers 
That  the  tiny  bird  will  murmur 
To  the  flowers  it  seeks  and  rifles, — 
That  it  robs  of  liquid  amber. 
While  it  hovers,  humming  softly, 
Bearing  on  its  quivering  pinions 
Tints  of  bronze  and  gold  it  gathered 
From  the  sunsets,  from  the  sun -glow 
That  smiled  on  it  as  it  fluttered 
In  and  out  among  the  bloom-stalks 
Of  those  distant  sunny  gardens. 
It  has  come,  and  like  a  fairy's 
Is  the  form  that  seldom  wearies, 
Are  the  wings  that  hold  it  lightly 
Near  enough  to  gain  the  sweetness, 
From  each  blossom's  dainty  chalice, 
Far  enoutrh  from  leaf  and  branches 
To  avoid  the  sliofhest  tarnish 
That  their  rougher  touch  would  fasten 
If  it  tossed  the  tinted  feathers 
Of  the  wings,  the  jeweled  forehead. 


A    HUMMING-BIRD    IN    SITKA.  79 

Or  the  throat  witli  silver  frosting. 
Yet  this  Hvino-  crem  has  wandered 
Over  miles  of  sun-ripe  meadows, 
Over  fields  of  clover,  nodding 
With  the  weight  of  richest  nectar ; 
Over  mountain  ranges,  girding 
Valleys  decked  with  billowy  grasses, 
Spangled  here  and  there  with  tassels — 
Blossom  tassels — pink  and  purple, 
Softly  gray  and  misty  yellow. 
Bending  as  the  wind  speeds  o'er  them. 
Springing  upright,  flaunting  gayly, 
All  their  small,  sun  painted  banners. 
Over  streams  whose  timid  murmur 
Scarce  would  drown  its  own  soft  calling, 
Or  above  great,  dashing  rivers 
Hastening  to  entomb  their  waters 
In  the  ocean's  restless  surges. 
How  it  came?    Perhaps  it  wandered 
On  and  on  where  flowers  are  sweetest. 
Listing  not  how  far  they  tempted, 
Till  it  lost  its  homeward  reckoning. 


8o  ALASKANA. 

Gave  itself  to  full  enjoyment 

Of  the  strange,  new  scenes  unfolding- 

As  it  journeyed  toward  the  northland, 

Toward  the  land  where  storms  are  brooded, 

Where  pale  Nature  pauses,  awe-struck. 

At  the  power  the  ice-wind  carries 

On  its  great,  cloud-darkened  wing-tips, — 

At  the  spotless  sheathes  it  fastens 

Overall  the  verdant  structures 

That  her  eager  hand  had  builded. 

While  the  sun's  gay  smile  deluded. 

While  his  kisses  warmed  the  spirits 

Of  the  myriad  plants  and  seed  pods 

That  she  held  toward  his  briofhtness 

In  her  sweet  confiding  manner. 

On  it  flew,  its  heart  elated 

With  its  rare  untrammeled  freedom. 

While  its  tireless  wings  upbore  it 

Light  as  down  by  breezes  lifted. 

But  it  paused  not  where  the  ice-king 

Holds  his  court  in  gelid  grandeur, 

But  a  garden  spot  espying 


A    HUMMING-BIRD    IN    SITKA.  i 

Hid  among  the  snow-capped  mountains, 
Fanned  by  winds  whose  air  is  tempered 
By  the  soft  winged  Kura-siwo. 
Thence  it  sped,  by  hunger  hurried. 
For  it  looked  in  vain  for  blossoms, 
When  it  reached  the  belt  of  silence 
In  the  glacier's  fair  dominions, 
And  it  found  such  honeyed  fragrance 
In  the  dark  green  fields  of  Sitka, 
Where  the  clear  sound-waters  answer 
To  the  balmy  zephyrs  sighing, 
Where  the  mists  fall  softly  downward 
And  the  verdure  springs  to  meet  them, 
And  the  blossom  buds  swell  quickly 
Into  perfume-laden  beauty ; 
That  it  lingered,  culling  sweetness 
In  return  for  tender  music. 
Wakened  by  its  quivering  wing-tips 
And  the  gentle  winds  that  vibrate 
To  the  swift,  unnumbered  time-beats  ; 
And  the  slender  body  wanders 
Out  and  in  among  the  grasses, 


82  ALASKAN  A. 

Up  and  through  the  drooping  branches 

Of  the  spruce  and  hemlock  sprouting 

Into  richer,  grander  statur 

As  the  summer  hno-ers  near  them. 

Now  it  clasps  a  twig  so  slender 

That  its  pulse-beats  make  it  tremble, 

While  it  rests  and  smoothes  its  plumage, 

Gazing  round  in  joyous  wonder 

At  the  oasis  of  beauty 

It  has  found  so  far  to  northward 

Of  the  home  it  left  behind  it, 

When  it  started  forth  to  travel 

With  no  chart  but  joy  to  lead  it, — 

When  it  saw  fresh  bloom  to  greet  it 

Whereso'er  its  wings  were  guided. — 

It  has  found  in  dark  Alaska 

Blossoms  sweet  as  southern  tlow'rets, 

Honey,  pure  as  golden  nectar 

From  the  azure  horns  of  larkspur. 

From  the  lips  of  rose  and  lily, 

Or  the  hearts  of  daisies  opened 

To  the  sunlight,  to  the  breezes, — - 


A    HUMMING-BIRD    IN    SITKA. 

To  the  swift,  short  moment  visits 
Of  its  far  less  daring  comrades, 
In  the  home  so  fair  and  distant — 
In  the  home  beyond  the  ice-zone, 
Far  away  across  the  channels 
Where  no  sea-voice  makes  the  echoes 
On  the  mountain-chains  and  hill-tops, 
Where  the  lovely  night  is  silent, 
Save  that  now  and  then  a  bird-voice 
Or  a  nimble-winofed  cicada 
Makes  a  note  or  two,  then  settles 
Into  restful,  peaceful,  quiet. 


INDIAN  RIVER.^= 


OITKA'S  beauty  stands  unquestioned; 

But  how  soon  her  grace  would  vanish, 
All  her  bright  green  radiance  wither 
And  become  as  dust  and  ashes, 
Were  it  not  for  gracious  moisture, 
Sent  in  mists  and  silvery  rain-drops  ! 
And  how  soon  her  slow-lived  people 
Would  forget  to  live — or  scatter 
Far  away  from  Sitka  valley, 
Far  away  from  Edgecumbe's  shadow. 
Were  it  not  for  one  sweet  river — 
One  pure,  rippling  stream — whose  waters 
Bear  to  man  and  beast  refreshment ; 

*  See  Note  in  Appendix. 

(84) 


Indian  River,  near  Sitka. 


INDIAN    RIVER.  85 

While  it  hides  away  unconscious 

Of  its  clear  and  gentle  fairness, 

Of  its  sweet,  transparent  beauty — 

As  the  violet,  whose  sweetness 

Breathes  among  the  fallen  oak-leaves — 

As  a  sonof-bird  seeks  a  covert 

When  its  heart,  brimful  of  rapture. 

Causes  every  nerve  to  quiver 

With  a  vibratory  motion, 

While  its  voice  rings  out  with  gladness 

Full  of  clear  accentuations. 

Joyful  trills,  and  soulful  music  ! 

So  this  stream  enfolds  its  brightness 

Under  leafy  boughs  and  branches, 

Under  slender  vines  and  shadows. 

Thrown  protectingly  around  it 

By  the  trees  whose  roots  are  nourished 

With  the  cool  and  limpid  water. 

And  the  roots  return  thanksgiving 

In  the  panoply  of  verdure 

That  protects  its  rippling  surface 

From  the  sun's  too  ardent  glances, 


86  ALASKANA. 

From  the  winds,  who  fain  would  carry 

Clouds  of  mist  from  off  its  bosom 

And  dispense  them  widely,  thoughtless 

Of  the  prodigal  diffusion  ! 

And  its  silvery  voice  forever 

Tinkles  clearly,  where  the  pebbles 

Hold  themselves  against  the  ripples  ; 

Or  it  murmurs  sweet  cadenzas 

To  the  moss-erown  stones  beneath  it, 

Swelling  out  in  louder  carols 

Where  the  shelving  rocks  and  boulders 

Fain  would  stay  the  limpid  current ; 

Falling  then  to  tender  whispers 

That  the  trembling  fern-leaves  only 

May  discern  while  drooping  lightly 

Toward  their  slender,  dark  reflections. 

Then  it  turns  in  whirlingf  eddies 

Round  the  points  of  stones,  all   shattered, 

Or  it  stops  awhile  in  silence, 

Where  its  shallow  bed  is  deeper, 

Forming  smooth,  pellucid  mirrors. 

Pure  and  bright  as  polished  crystal. 


INDIAN    RIVER.  87 

On  it  flows,  throiiQ^h  fen  and  hollow, 
Under  spreading  trees,  with  sunshine 
Breaking  through  in  golden  patches  ; 
On,  still  on,  as  though  its  mission 
Touched  its  heart  with   sweet   compassion 
And  compelled  its  tide  to  hasten 
Toward  the  hands,  that  hold  beside  it 
Pails  of  modern  form  and  fabric  ; 
Bowls,  all  decked  with  totem  emblems  ; 
Baskets  closely  wove  and  swollen 
Until  no  bright  drop  Is  wasted 
Once  within  their  care  entrusted; 
Cups  of  horn,  and  ketdes  chiselled 
From  the  stones  around  the  door-ways, — 
These  and  more,  are  daily  carried 
Through  the  town  toward  the  river, 
And  the  river  turns  toward  them, 
As  they're  plunged  beneath  its  surface, 
Filling  all  to  overflowing 
With  its  clear,  life-giving  fluid. 
Then  it  ripples  on,  sdll  singing 
In  its  way  toward  the  channel, 


88  ALASKANA. 

Under  rudely  rustic  bridges, 
Over  tiny,  pebbly  beaches  ; 
Spreading  out  in  broad  expanses 
And  then  shrinking  closely,  holding 
Round  its  banks  the  ferns  and  grasses 
That  delight  to  lend  their  shadows 
For  the  streamlet's  decoration. 
As  it  nears  the  final  closing 
Of  its  pure,  undimmed  existence, 
Swift  it  speeds,  that  gleaming  current. 
Fair  and  sweet  its  smiles  and  dimples. 
And  its  every  wave  looks  brighter 
As  it  leaves  its  banks  to  mingle 
With  the  channel's  deeper  waters. 


ALASKAN  MARRIAGE. 


T  N  the  lip  a  pin  inserted, 

With  the  blunted  point  projecting, 
Marks  the  maiden  who  is  ready 
To  become  a  willing  helpmate 
For  some  chief,  or  humble  siwash, — 
To  improve  his  lonely  dwelling 
With  her  constant,  faithful  presence; 
Bear  his  burdens,  weave  his  blankets, 
Cook  his  fish  and  dry  the  berries, 
Carry  home  his  load  of  fishes — 
If  the  season  is  successful — 
Dry  his  salmon,  hang  his  deer  meat, 
Pitch  his  tent  of  skins  and  fleeces, 
And  withal  to  bear  his  children, 

(89) 


90 


ALASKAN  A. 

Who,  if  girls,  among  some  natives, 
Are  despised,  abused  and  often 
Murdered  with  a  cool  intention  ; 
Sometimes,  by  the  cringing  mother, 
Who,  with  aching  heart,  would  rather 
See  them  dead,  than  live  and  suffer 
As  she  does  with  helpless  patience  ! 
When  a  man  has  met  a  maiden 
Whom  he  thinks  will  fairly  suit  him, 
To  her  home  he  sends  a  message, 
Telling  of  his  will  toward  her, 
Calmly  waiting  for  the  answer, 
Which  is  sure  to  meet  his  wishes, 
Unless  higher  hopes  are  centred 
In  the  girl,  because  of  beauty, 
Or  of  greater  wealth  in  prospect 
From  another  waitinii  suitor. 
If  he  gains  the  hoped  for  answer 
Presents,  rich  as  he  can  offer, 
He  bestows  upon  the  parents, — 
Gathers  all  that  he  can  muster 
In  exchange  for  this  fair  daughter. 


ALASKAN    MARRIAGE,  9 1 

Then  a  wedding  time  is  settled  : 
When  it  comes  he  seeks  the  cabin 
And  he  sits  demurely  waitincr 
With  his  back  toward  the  door-way. 
Presently  the  girl's  relations, 
Who  have  met  the  rites  to  witness, 
Sing  a  marriage-song  with  spirit, 
Shouting  out  the  merry  chorus. 
While  some  calico  and  seal-skins, 
Or,  perhaps,  the  skins  of  otter 
Are  disposed  upon  the  door-sill ; 
And  the  girl  who,  from  the  corner, 
Listened  to  the  joyous  singing 
And  beheld  the  way  her  footsteps 
Were  to  cross  toward  her  lover — 
Silently  is  led  across  them, 
Led  across  the  cloth  and  fur-skins, 
And  then  seats  herself  beside  him. 
Neither  speaks  nor  turns  to  notice. 
But  they  sit  in  sober  silence, 
Joining  not  in  songs  and  dances. 
Though  the  friends  and  guests  invited 


92  ALASKANA. 

Eat  and  drink  and  sing  till  weary, — 
Dance  and  shout  until  the  welkin 
Rines  a^ain  with  sounds  and  voices 
Then  they  rest,  and  sober  fasting 
For  a  day  or  two  prepares  them 
For  a  meal,  but  plain  and  scanty, 
Followed  by  another  pastime 
And  another  season's  revel, 
Which  the  maid  may  not  indulge  in 
And  the  suitor  dare  not  enter. 
Then  they  part,  the  girl  is  taken 
And  secluded  from  all  notice, 
While  the  man,  his  home  preparing, 
Waits  the  time  of  his  probation. 
During  which  he  may  be  tempted 
By  another  maiden  charmer, 
And  may  cancel  his  betrothal, 
Punished  not  by  maid  nor  parent. 
But  the  maiden  dare  not  utter 
One  complaint  against  the  lover  ; 
She  is  his  to  take  or  leave  her — 
She  is  his  to  hold  for  life-time — 


ALASKAN    MARRIAGE.  93 

Or,  if  wearied  of  her  presence, 

He  can  send  her  back,  demanding 

Every  portion  of  his  purchase ! 

In  the  time  by  law  appointed, 

Forth  the  bridegroom  issues,  painted, 

Finely  dressed  in  fur  or  blanket, 

And  demands  his  bride  to  follow 

Where  his  will  has  made  her  dwelling. 

Likely  she  is  highly  favored 

As  the  first  wife  of  her  master, 

Or  she  may  be  watched  with  hatred 

By  another  dark  companion — 

Two  of  these  may  scowl  upon  her. 

Frightening  much  the  trembling  creature 

Who  has  never  dared  to  show  it 

If  she  loves  or  hates  her  husband. 

Or  a  month  or  two  may  follow 

Ere  she  finds  another  mistress 

Brought  to  share  with  her  the  keeping 

Of  the  lordly  master's  riches. 

She  may  work  till  worn  and  weary, 

She  may  suffer — that  is  nothing — 


94  ALASKANA. 

So  the  master  does  not  feel  it, 
So  he's  never  incommoded 
Or  his  sovereign  power  contested  ! 
When  she  entered  at  the  door-way 
From  her  Hp  the  pin  was  taken 
And  a  graven  labret  twisted 
In  the  hole  the  pin  had  opened  ; 
This  is  proof  above  all  others 
That  she  is  no  more  a  maiden, 
That  her  very  soul  is  entered 
In  the  husband's  own  possessions. 
Year  by  year  he  moves  the  labret 
And  inserts  a  larger  carving, 
Each,  in  turn,  defacing  further 
All  the  features  of  the  wearer, 
Making  of  the  mouth  an  object 
Far  from  beautiful  or  comely, 
Drawing  down  the  cheeks  and  eyelids 
And  exposing  teeth  that  darken 
With  decay  or  age's  footprints. 
Ah,  how  soon  the  maiden  changes 
To  a  worn  and  weary  woman  ! 


ALASKAN    MARRIAGE.  95 

Bearinsjf  loads  that  make  her  totter 
And  abuse  that  sears  and  blackens 
Both  the  heart  and  trembling  body. 
How  she  holds  her  children  near  her, 
Strapped  upon  her  back,  which,  bending, 
Bows  her  form  as  years  develop 
Tiny  babe  to  sturdy  urchin. 
Sometimes  kindness  makes  her  willing 
Thus  to  serve  the  one  who  owns  her ; 
But  more  likely  stern  compulsion 
Turns  the  wife  to  gloomy  servant. 
Older  grown,  her  charms  so  lessened 
Make  neglect  the  common  portion. 
And  the  younger  force  upon  her 
Greater  toils  and  longer  journeys. 
Jealous  hatred  may  consume  her 
When  she  sees  a  younger  rival 
Boasting  of  the  gifts  that  lately 
Were  her  own,  as  near  as  ever 
Wife  can  hold  a  gift  or  portion. 
But  she  dare  not  utter  protest, 
Lest  her  flesh  should  feel  the  burnings 


96  ALASKANA. 

Of  a  brand  picked  from  the  hearth-stone, 

Or  a  blow  that  bleeds  and  festers, 

Scarring  heart  as  well  as  body. 

So  she  lives — a  dreary  subject 

Of  this  savao-e  form  of  marriatje — 

Faithful,  until  death  releases 

From  its  weight  of  wrong  the  spirit 

That  goes  forth,  alone  and  helpless. 

O'er  the  dark  and  gruesome  waters 

That  may  lead  to  fields  of  beauty. 

Or  may  bear  her  on  forever — 

Seeinor  rest  she  cannot  enter 

In  the  dim,  uncertain  distance  ! 


TOTEMS. 


A  A  7" HERE  these  dark  Alaskan  people, 

'     Great  Alaska's  Indian  natives, 
Build  their  homes  of  forest  rnonarchs, 
Cut  in  slabs  and  fitted  neatly, 
Bound  and  closely  joined  together 
Without  nail  or  spike  to  hold  them — 
Some  have  marked  their  special  totems- 
Carved  in  wood  their  tribal  emblems — 
So  they  call  the  strange  devices 
By  which  tribes  and  clans  and  families 
Desi"-nate  their  odd  belonorinj^s — 
And  have  placed  them  on  the  panels, 
On  the  planks  that  form  their  houses, 
As  a  sign  to  all  who  enter 

(97) 


98  ALASKANA. 

That  the  house  and  all  its  fittings, 

Which  display  the  chosen  figures, 

Are  the  sole  and  true  possessions, 

Property  with  legal  title, 

Of  the  chief,  or  lawful  master 

Of  the  family,  whose  dwelling 

Thus  upholds  its  rank  and  title. 

Others,  it  may  be  their  talents 

Are  not  quite  so  well  developed, 

Are  content  to  show  theif  ensign 

On  a  pole,  which  stands  as  guardian 

By  the  door,  or  rather,  entrance. 

Questions,  bold  and  oft  repeated — 

Cunning  questions  deftly  handled, 

Sly,  insinuating  questions — 

Fail  to  gain  a  truthful  knowledge 

Of  a  custom  so  peculiar ; 

Fail  to  find  the  first-born  reason 

For  those  quaint  and  wondrous  carvings 

That  are  held  exclusive  'scutcheons 

Which  may  not,  be  counterfeited. 

Nor  repeated  by  another, 


TOTEMS.  99 

Unless  marriage  or  promotion 

Grants  the  power  to  grave  the  emblem 

Witli  the  one  or  more  belonging 

To  the  favored  chief  or  suitor. 

Are  these  idols?     One  can  scarcely 

Grace  them  with  a  name  so  sacred. 

For  'twould  test  a  soul  artistic 

To  find  aught  of  heavenly  beauty, 

Aught  of  earth's  most  strange  productions, 

Or  of  subterranean  monsters, 

Quite  so  oddly  shaped  or  featured, 

Half  so  weirdly  bound  together ! 

Are  these  people  low  descendants 

Of  a  "greater  race  of  mortals 

Who  have,  ages  back,  been  shipwrecked 

On  these  new-world  shores  and  islands  ? 

Have  their  grand,  heraldic  tokens. 

Both  in  name  and  form  perverted, 

Graven  by  inferior  sculptors. 

Grown  degenerate  as  the  ages 

Handed  them  from  mother  sponsors 

Down  to  uncouth,  careless  scions  ? 


lOO  ALASKANA. 

Who,  for  lack  of  gentle  culture, 
Grew  from  year  to  year  more  savage, 
Until  every  trace  has  vanished 
Of  the  parent  country's  language, 
Of  its  features  and  complexion? 
All  have  gone  and  left  us  nothing 
But  a  labyrinth  of  notions. 
But  a  field  of  wild  conjecture 
That  may  find  Egyptian  atoms 
Floating  from  the  carver's  knife  point. 
Or  behold  Japan-like  eyelids 
Drooping  over  eyes,  whose  lustre 
May  have  caught  its  brightest  glitter 
From  some  dark  Mongolian  optics; 
Or  mayhap,  these  monster  totems 
Are  but  witch  and  elf  exorcists. 
For  the  fiend  of  superstition, 
Never  held  a  stronger  fortress. 
Never  boasted  slaves  more  abject. 
Than  these  Indian  tribes,  who  people 
Sea  and  air  and  earth  and  future 
Thick  with  spirits,  fierce,  vindictive, 


TOTEMS.  lOr 

And  with  cruelty  too  dreadful 
To  be  mentioned  or  out-spoken  ! 
After  all,  the  startlinof  fioures 
May  be  works  of  art,  long  cherished. 
As  we  hold  a  shattered  torso, — 
As  we  prize  a  rare  old  painting, 
Peeled  and  scarred,  yet  still  displaying, 
To  an  artist's  eyes,  rare  beauty. — 
To  a  soul  art-cultivated. 
Gems  of  worth  the  wild  Alaskan 
Would  behold  with  eyes  astonished 
At  the  taste  which  held  such  rubbish 
As  more  grand  and  highly  valued 
Than  his  bold  and  lofty  carvings  ! 
Sometimes  throuo^h  these  totem  figures 
Darts  a  streak  of  comic  humor. 
That  would  seem  to  show  intention, 
But,  too  soon,  'tis  lost  in  wonders, 
Senseless  eyed,  and  stolid  visaged  ; 
Or  with  shapes  as  rudely  fashioned 
As  an  infant's  first  progression 
Toward  a  house  or  trotting  pony. 


I02  ALASKANA. 

Bowls  are  marked  with  hideous  faces 
Opened-moLidied  and  grinning  fiercely— 
Radier  strange,  an  invitation 
To  partake  of  crimson  berries 
Floating  in  a  sea  of  blubber  ! 
Blankets,  whose  inviting  softness 
Wooes  the  ice-chilled  frame  to  comfort, 
Glare  about  with  eyes  wide  open, 
Or,  with  sidelong  glances,  threaten 
While  an  axe,  or  knife,  or  fish-hook 
Waits  to  twine  in  subtle  fibres 
Round  the  limbs  and  pulsing  vitals. 
And  these  totems,  re-repeated, 
Show  through  every  master's  household 
As  a  seal  with  stamp  and  ribbon 
Marks  the  haughtiest  king's  possessions 
View  a  Hydah  totem  graven 
In  the  stones,  a  monumental 
And  most  dignified  construction. 
From  its  base  eyes  stare  upon  you, 
Lidless  eyes,  which  lack  expression, 
While  above  them  sits  his  bearship. 


TOTEMS.  >  03 

Holding  out  his  paws  serenely, 
To  uphold  the  feet  of  something 
That  bestrides  his  back,  and  bending, 
Holds  its  chin  in  cool  complaisance 
On  its  hands,  half  clinched  and  resting 
On  the  bear's  most  noble  forehead  ; 
While  upon  its  back  this  other — 
Whether  beast  or  whether  human — 
Holds  a  figure  truly  manlike 
With  some  trophy  of  his  prowess 
Sluno-  across  his  lifted  shoulder. 
Here  a  shaft  is  gravely  freighted 
With  a  head,  whose  jaws  spread  open, 
Form  a  doorway  to  the  dwelling 
Which  it  marks  with  lofty  stature. 
Next  above  the  face  outspreading 
Is  a  mask,  a  staring  bird's  head, 
And  a  face  with  rays  surrounding 
That  must  mean  to  hold  resemblance 
To  the  morning  sun  uprising. 
Next  another  leering  mask-face, 
Overtopped  with  scrolls  and  circles, 


104  ALASKAN  A. 

Which  support  an  owl,  whose  judgeship 
Stands  confessed  by  all  beholders, 
As  he  sits  in  wise  reflection, 
Noting  not  the  staring  stranger, 
Heeding  not  the  world's  wild  tumult, 
But  in  carven,  stolid  grandeur, 
Overcasting  humbler  totems 
With  his  grace's  stately  presence  ! 
There's  an  eagle's  head,  upholding 
On  its  brow  a  chieftain's  figure. 
Here,  a  shaft  all  smoothly  shapen. 
With  no  crest  except  an  owlet. 
Gazing  round  in  staring  wonder 
On  poor,  foolish  man's  condition. 
See  that  stick,  with  nose  protruding. 
And  an  object  like  a  foolscap, 
Both  of  which  make  odd  suggestions 
Of  a  Punch  and  Judy  pattern  ? 
But  that  nose  must  be  a  spear-hock. 
And  the  cap,  on  close  inspection, 
Proves  to  be  a  whale,  whose  body 
Had  not  strength  to  hold  its  burden. 


Totem  Poles,  Ft.  Wrangel. 


TOTEMS.  105 

Great  with  eyes,  and  teeth  sufficient 
To  surprise  an  eager  hunter 
For  orreat  mastodonic  reHcs  : — 
So  the  head  has  tilted  forward 
O'er  the  brow  that  bears  it  nobly ! 
There,  an  eagle  screams  defiance 
From  its  outlook  at  the  doorway, 
While  a  raven,  grandest  totem  ! 
Highest  tribe-mark  of  those  nations! 
Holds  its  own  through  wind  and  weather, 
With  its  neck  outstretched,  and  pinions 
Ready  to  swoop  down  and  punish 
One  who  dares  defy  his  kingship  ! 
Bears,  supporting  men  and  bird-shapes. 
Stand  beside  a  bear  recumbent 
On  a  pole  whose  sides  are  dented 
With  small  feet-marks,  oft-repeated. 
There  a  wolf  is  bounding  onward. 
Howling  as  he  smells  his  quarry, — 
Massive  whales,  with  eyes  more  human 
Than  some  eyes  that  beam  in  faces, 
Gaze  about  from  strange  positions 


I06  ALASKAN  A. 

On  men's  heads  or  from   their  shoulders, 

And  display  such  even  beauty 

In  the  teeth  they  force  to  notice 

As  no  mammal  in  the  water 

E'er  before  could  boast  in  owning ! 

Fishes,  frogs,  birds,  beasts  and  mankind, 

All  in  heathenish  confusion, 

Top  and  overcap  each  other 

With  the  most  grotesque  arrangement, 

That  would  seem  to  rise  from  adding 

To  the  crest,  already  graven, 

Each  new  totem  as  it  enters 

With  no  thought  of  graceful  outline. 

Nor  of  how  absurdly  builded 

Are  the  sticks  they  prize  so  highly ! 

All  these  poles  are  made  to  outlook 

O'er  the  sea  or  nearest  river. 

Is  it  that  they  trust  protection 

From  the  fearful  fate  of  drownino- 

Lies  within  the  staring  eyeballs 

Of  those  sightless  totem  figures? 

When   they  paint  their  dark  canoe-prows 


TOTEMS.  107 

With  some  one  of  these  devices 

Does  it  mean  they  trust  their  safety 

To  that  image,  strange  and  senseless  ? 

On  their  graves,  or  close  beside  them, 

Crouch  these  totems,  weird  as  spectres, 

Waiting  to  give  out  the  signal 

Of  an  enemy's  approaching, 

Or  as  scarecrows,  meant  to  frighten 

All  the  evil-minded  witches 

Who  with  fell  design  might  scatter 

To  the  wind  these  sacred  ashes ! 

All  the  tribes  are  finely  graded 

By  the  nature  of  their  totems: 

Ravens,   crows,  and  all  winged  creatures 

Mark  the  higher  chieftain's  'scutcheons. 

While  the  frogs  and  fishes  enter 

As  the  lower  classes'  ensigns. 

Yet  the  graven  poles  expose  them 

Strangely  mixed  for  such  distinction, 

Which  must  come  from  noble  natives 

Wedding  humbler  wives,  whose  tribe-marks 

Added,  make  the  lower  creature 


I08  ALASKAN  A. 

Rest  upon  its  mighty  rival. 
Thus  we  leave  them ;  some  historian 
May  arise  from  out  the  darkness 
And  unearth  some  hidden  archives 
That  our  eyes  could  not  decipher, 
And  explain  a  wondrous  meaning 
That  will  awe  us  with  its  grandeur, 
Or  compel  our  admiration 
With  its  child-like,  tender  meaning] 
While  we  hope  the  gentler  teachings, 
That  fair  Freedom  sends  to  greet  them 
May  direct  the  shadowed  genius 
Into  fields  of  brilliant  knowledge, 
And  produce  from  hands  so  gifted 
Gems  well  worth  our  Union's  wearing. 


ALASKAN  DOCTORS. 


TF  a  woman  dreams  her  infant, 

Yet  unborn,  contains  the  spirit. 
Or  will  in  some  day  in  future 
Hold  the  essence  of  a  Shaman, 
From  its  birth  the  tiny  creature 
Is  not  common  with  its  fellows. 
But  is  held  in  sacred  reverence, — 
Looked  upon  with  eyes  of  wonder, 
And  with  jealous  care  so  guarded 
That  no  fateful  interference 
May  impair  its  coming  greatness, — 
That  no  witch,  with  foul  intention, 
Shall  destroy  the  germs  of  greatness 
Which  has  found  its  future  dwelling 
(109) 


no  ALA8KANA. 

In  the  child  so  plainly  chosen. 

So  is  looked  upon  and  cherished, 

One  whose  locks  are  auburn  tinted, 

Or  whose  hair  is  black  but  curling. 

Each  of  these  three  signs  is  certain, 

Showing,  with  no  doubt  attending, 

That  some  dying  doctor's  mantle 

Has  descended,  and  is  resting 

On  the  head  of  one  so  singled  ; — 

Marked  with  signs  of  its  profession 

So  decidedly,  no  question 

Ever  rises  to  defraud  it 

Of  the  training  and  the  honors 

Due  to  such  a  noble  callinof ! 

For  the  Shaman  holds  position 

Second  to  no  other  office, 

Even  chieftains  paying  deference 

To  the  might  of  those,  whose  will-power, 

Direful,  strange  and  quite  mysterious, 

Calls  a  spirit  back  to  earthward. 

If  some  playful  witch's  charming 

Has  not  doomed  the  suffering  patient 


ALASKAN    DOCTORS.  I  I  I 

To  the  long  and  lonely  journey 
Which  the  trembling  soul  must  travel 
Ere  it  lands  in  endless  safety 
P^ar  beyond  the  angry  waters ! 
With  its  birth  the  future  Shaman 
Starts  at  once  upon  the  training 
Which  befits  its  destined  station. 
So  its  hair  is  never  shortened, 
Nor  the  locks  with  comb  distorted — 
But  as  nature  bids  them  prosper, 
So  they  grow  in  curls  and  crinkles, 
Waved  and  twisted  as  the  fingers 
Of  the  teasing  winds  entwine  them — 
Massed  and  matted,  woven  closely 
With  the  restless  dreamer's  tossing. — 
With  the  hard,  unyielding  pillow 
Pressed  to  fit  the  head  so  closely 
That  its  growth  is  greatly  stunted, 
And  it  hangs  in  stiffened  masses. 
Tangled,  lustreless,  uncleanly. 
So  it  stays,     A  strange  diploma. 
Hideous  rival  of  the  parchment 


I  I  2  ALASKANA. 

In  whose  loss  a  buddincr  doctor 
Loses  all  that  fame  had  promised ; 
For  a  student,  once  dismantled 
Of  the  hair  that  made  him  sacred, 
Stands  forlorn,  a  common  mortal, 
Scorned  as  one  whose  term  at  college 
Ends  in  ignominious  failure  ! 
Those  that  honored  now  despise  him, 
And  he  never  more  may  enter 
In  the  race  he  seemed  so  fitted. 
By  the  sign  of  birth,  for  winning. 
But  'tis  seldom  even  witches 
Have  the  hardihood,  the  daring. 
To  deface  the  special  object, 
To  destroy  the  hope  so  centered 
In  the  youth  whose  hair  is  curly. 
Or  with  reddish  tints  o'ershadowed. 
Every  tribe  has  certain  spirits, 
Guarding,  guiding  and  tormenting — 
So  each  doctor  makes  selection 
For  his  own  peculiar  trade-mark, 
'       Of  some  mighty,  great  immortal ; 


ALASKAN    DOCTORS.  II3 

While  a  troop  of  scowling  demons, 
Marked  in  masks  and  hideous  noises, 
Paints  of  black  and  red,  and  powder, 
Made  to  burn  with  light  so  vivid 
That  its  rays  may  pierce  the  darkness 
Far  beyond  poor  mortal  vision  ; 
Eagles'  down  and  great  quill  feathers 
From  the  wings  of  crow  and  raven. 
Slender  wands  of  bone  or  ivory. 
Drums  bedecked  with  paint  and  tassel, 
And,  beyond  all  else,  great  rattles 
Carved  and  formed  in  various  figures, 
Make  the  form  of  pharmaceutics 
That  a  Shaman's  art  finds  needful 
For  a  sick  Alaskan's  healinor. 
All  good  spirits  never  enter 
In  the  songs  and  incantations. 
For  their  very  nature  proves  them 
Harmless,  needing  no  appeasing. 
But  the  demons,  always  darting 
Here  and  there  on  hurtful  mission, 
Must  be  feasted,  fed  and  fattened, 
S 


114  ALASKANA. 

Must  be  called  with  rattles,  sounding 
Each  his  own  peculiar  keynote — 
For  no  fiend  will  deign  to  answer 
To  another's  call,  however 
Loud  and  long  a  drum  may  vibrate, 
Or  a  rattle  break  the  stillness  ! 
As  the  student's  ac^e  advances, 
Doctors  of  the  tribe  secure  him, 
And  begin  their  course  of  training. 
That  will  lead  to  wealth  and  honor. 
Some  are  cannibals  so  hideous 
That  their  very  features  frighten 
Ere  they  change  their  grim  expression 
Into  grins  and  stares  revolting ; 
While  they  goad  their  unclad  pupil 
To  a  wild,  fanatic  frenzy — 
Prancing  like  a  haughty  war-horse, 
With  his  arms  outstretched  and  jerking. 
While  his  tangled  locks  toss  wildly 
By  his  odd,  ungainly  motions. 
When  he  finds  a  corpse  provided, 
Horribly  he  tears  and  rends  it 


ALASKAN    DOCTORS.  I  I  5 

With  his  teeth  and  nails,  and  swallows 

With  a  seeming-  taste  and  relish, 

Portions  of  the  reeking  body 

Till  his  beastly  will  is  sated  ! 

Then  he  rushes  where  the  demon 

Which  possesses  him  may  lead  him, 

In  and  out  among  his  people. 

On  the  house-tops,  in  the  chambers, 

Round  about,  till  wearied  nature 

Forces  him  to  travel  homeward, 

Where  the  staring  crowd  who  follow, 

Who  have  watched  him,  wild  with  wonder. 

May  not  dare  to  see  the  finish 

Of  that  awful,  fiendish  lesson  ! 

Dare  not  look  upon  the  features 

Ghastly  in  exhausted  slumber! 

Other  tribes  eat  dog,  for  practice 

No  less  hideous,  but  that  nature 

Has  not  quite  the  fearful  horror 

When  'tis  limbs  of  brute  that  furnish 

Such  a  meat  for  such  a  creature ! 

Tribes  there  are  in  o-reater  number 


I  I  6  ALASKAN  A. 

Who  despise  such  hateful  teaching, 
Who  content  themselves  with  screaming, 
Callinof  on  each  evil  p-enius 
Whose  fierce  hate  they  wish  to  temper, 
With  the  wildest,  strangest  dances, 
With  the  most  uncouth  distortions, 
Limb  and  feature-twisting  movements, 
And  a  din  of  hellish  jargon 
Made  with  drums  and  rattle-shaking, 
Made  with  clubs  whose  downward  crashing, 
Bids  the  hollow  space  around  them 
Quiver  with  a  queer  pulsation. 
Which  they  call  the  living  pressure 
Of  the  fiend  they  wish  to  conjure  ! — 
All  these  sounds,  with  masks  of  ravens, 
Beasts  and  fishes,  large  and  wicked. 
Or  with  faces  meant  as  pictures 
Of  the  mighty,  ghostly  beings 
Who  reside  in  wood  and  water. 
In  the  air,  the  fire,  the  totems — 
Everywhere,  with  naught  to  still  them 
From  their  mean,  vindictive  malice. 


ALASKAN    DOCTORS.  I  I  7 

But  the  Shaman's,  those  predestined 

To  contend  with  all  the  terrors, 

And  protect  the  tribes  from  damage — 

All  these  masks  and  signs  and  noises 

Join  to  bring  the  willing  student 

To  the  very  sure  perfection 

Of  a  scholar  and  physician  ! 

Of  the  herbs  they  use,  no  mortal 

May  expect  to  hear  the  virtues, 

Nor  the  names,  nor  where  they  flourish, 

For  if  one  were  known  to  follow, 

When  a  Shaman  goes  to  find  them — 

Goes  to  seek  the  healing  foliage, 

Or  the  roots  with  physic  teeming — 

Or  should  gaze  upon  a  Taamish, 

In  his  time  of  holy  fasting 

And  concoctinor  life  elixirs, 

Death  alone  would  meet  the  felon 

By  the  hands  of  those  he  followed. 

Or  by  one  who  knew  the  villain 

Had  so  dared  defile  the  precincts 

Wholly  sacred  to  the  doctors 


I  I  8  ALASKANA. 

Who  are  versed  in  arts  of  healinor. 

Yes,  although  it  were  a  brother, 

He  should  die  to  keep  securely 

All  the  secrets  of  the  Order ! 

When  a  patient  needs  attention, 

And  the  doctor  comes  in  answer 

To  the  call  that  bids  him  follow. 

Ere  the  fiends  have  sprung  beyond  him, 

And  the  witches  doomed  the  victim. 

There  he  stands,  his  arts  concealing, 

And  a  stubborn,  eager  shadow 

Lurking  in  his  starting  eyeballs. 

In  his  greedy,  grasping  fingers. 

And  he  will  not  even  favor 

With  a  glance  the  suffering  creature 

Till  his  fee  is  laid  in  blankets 

Or  in  costly  furs  or  silver 

At  his  feet,  that  never  waver 

Till  his  pay  is  his  most  surely. 

Then  he  leans  above  the  patient, 

With  his  staring  eyelids  moving 

Till  his  eyes  with  queer  expression 


ALASKAN    DOCTORS.  I  I  9 

Seem  to  roll  in  quick  gyrations 

And  his  gleaming  teeth  look  ready 

To  devour  the  crinofincr  fio-ure ! 

Now  he  takes  some  down  of  eagles, 

Holds  it  near  the  patient's  forehead, 

And  then  blows  it  far  above  him, 

Thus  to  chase  the  evil  spirit 

That  has  touched  the  fevered  body. 

Ha !  it  does  not  do,  he  seizes 

And  adorns  his  face  distorted 

With  a  mask,  most  truly  frightful. 

And  he  screams,  and  bano-s  and  batters 

At  his  drum  and  hollow  rattles. 

Calls  the  spirit  by  its  title, 

Burns  red  powder,  shouts  and  jabbers  ! 

Then,  when  worried  out,  he  gazes 

In  the  sick  man's  face  to  question 

If  the  demon  who  had  seized  him 

Had  not  left,  appeased  and  silent. 

No.     The  fever  still  is  raging. 

And  the  patient,  strange  the  telling, 

Does  not  seem  the  least  recovered ! 


1 20  ALASKANA. 

So  he  waits  another  offering 
Of  the  soft  and  cosy  blankets, 
Dons  another  g-rinning  mask-face, 
Changes  rattles,  drums  and  potions, 
And  begins  a  din  so  frio^htful 
That  the  last  was  tender  music 
When  compared  with  all  this  clatter! 
Unsuccessful  still,  he  changes 
Till  his  wiles  are  all  exhausted, 
And  the  tortured  sufferer  threatens 
To  depart  without  delaying. 
Knowing  well  his  doom  is  certain, — 
For  his  life  must  pay  the  forfeit 
If  his  arts  have  been  deceptive 
And  death  ends  his  cruel  treatment. - 
Suddenly  he  finds  that  witchcraft 
Has  been  played  upon  the  patient; 
And  for  blankets,  fine  and  costly 
He  will  find  the  witch's  dwelling, 
Find  the  form  that  holds  the  witch's 
And  redeem  himself  by  dooming 
Some  poor  wretch  to  instant  torture. 


ALASKAN    DOCTORS.  121 

So  he  turns  with  fearful  gestures 
This  way,  that  way,  swaying  forward 
Till  his  claw-like  fingers,  pointing, 
Pause  before  some  shrinking  figure, 
And  no  words,  no  prayers,  no  pleading 
Can  avert  the  doom  so  transferred 
From  the  cunning  Shaman's  body 
To  the  wretch  whose  worst  intention 
Ne'er  deserved  so  sad  an  ending! 
Such  these  doctors,  honored,  trusted, 
Looked  upon  with  greater  reverence 
Than  the  noblest  old  professor. 
Classed  among  our  grandest  pepple, 
Ever  hopes  to  win  from  students 
Or  from  those  his  skill  has  aided  ! 


POWER  OF  THE  MEDICINE  MEN. 


T^HAT  his  tribe  may  know  how  awful 

Is  the  power  within  him  vested, 
Know  how  strong  his  healing  virtues 
Or  his  will  to  call  each  spirit, 
Which  he  holds  at  once  to  challenge 
Or  to  still  in  mild  subjection ; 
At  a  certain  time,  each  Shaman 
Sets  a  day  to  make  exhibits 
Of  his  prowess  with  the  demons 
He  has  taken  for  his  specials — 
Chosen  as  his  weird  familiars — 
Who  but  wait  his  sig^nal  soundinor 
To  repair  and  wait  his  bidding. 
On  that  day  by  him  appointed 
(122) 


POWER    OF    THE    MEDICINE    MEN.  1 23 

All  his  near  relations  gather 
To  perform  their  part  as  chorus 
To  the  strangely  wild  performance  ; 
But  before  they  dare  to  enter 
Each  must  part  with  every  portion 
Of  the  food  within  his  stomach  ; 
He  must  fast,  and  lest  his  victuals 
Should  defile  the  entertainment, 
He  must  rid  that  useful  member 
Of  the  slightest  crumb  remaining, — 
Take  emetics,  swab  the  passage 
From  the  mouth  as  far  as  feathers 
Can  be  forced  toward  the  stomach, — 
When,  becoming  so  disgusted, 
It  most  willingly  disgorges 
All  the  food  or  drink  that  lingers 
Notwithstanding  all  the  fasting. 
Thus  so  faithfully  preparing. 
Oh,  how  strange  it  is  to  ponder 
On  the  great  event  that  ordered 
Such  a  self-inflicted  trial — 
Such  a  farcical  ordeal. 


124  ALASKANA. 

With  their  minds  alert  for  wonders 
And  their  brains  surcharged  with  action, 
Off  they  hie  toward  the  dwelHng 
Of  the  doctor  who  has  called  them, 
To  behold  the  orrand  achievements. 
There  the  Shaman  waits  their  entrance, 
With  his  masks  and  down  and  powder, 
With  his  wands  and  drums  and  rattles 
'Ranged  in  proper,  careful  order 
For  his  sacred  incantations. 
Thus  they  meet  at  close  of  evening, 
Gather  while  the  sunset's  tinting 
Paints  the  sky  in  lines  of  beauty; 
Then  the  grand  performance  opens 
With  a  song,  all  join  in  singing, 
While  a  drum  is  loudly  beaten. 
Keeping  time  to  aid  the  singers 
Who,  with  faces  fixed  and  earnest, 
Do  their  part,  though  ever  thinking 
Of  the  Shaman  who  has  entered, 
Dressed  in  blankets  oddly  woven, 
With  a  crown  above  his  face  mask 


POWER    OF    THE    MEDICINE    MEN.  1 25 

Filled  with  down  torn  from  the  eagles, 
With  a  mask,  whose  paint  and  carving- 
Bears  the  beak  of  crow  or  raven, 
Shows  the  face  of  scowling  demon, 
Or  displays  the  snarling  muzzle 
Of  a  wolf  or  bear — or  something 
Half  a  beast  and  half  a  creature — 
Lookinoflike  a  man  distorted 
With  the  most  distressino-  torture. 
In  the  hut's  smoke-darkened  centre, 
Fierce  and  bright  a  fire  is  blazing. 
And  the  Shaman  rushes  round  it, 
Round  and  round  he  hastens,  gazing 
All  the  while  with  head  uplifted 
Toward  the  hole  through  which  the  smoke-clouds 
Rise  and  taint  the  evening  breezes. 
On  he  runs,  each  moment  faster, 
While  his  limbs  and  painted  body 
Turn  and  twist  in  strange  contortions. 
Keeping  time  to  every  drum-sound. 
As  it  pulsates  through  the  dwelling 
And  along  the  quivering  fibres 
Of  the  nerves  of  all  assembled, 


126  ALASKAN  A. 

More  than  all  the  poor  fanatic's, 

Speeding  wildly  as  a  whirlwind, 

Borne  along  till  will  is  conquered 

And  he  writhes  in  throes  convulsive; 

While  the  eyeballs,  ever  rolling, 

Turn  till  not  a  siorn  of  color 

Shows  beneath  the  trembling  eyelids. — 

On  and  on  ! — Meanwhile  the  singers 

Mock  the  niofht-winds  with  their  music. 

And  the  drum-beats  rise  and  vibrate 

Till  the  very  stars  seem  dancing 

To  the  echoes  of  the  sounding. 

Suddenly  the  doctor  pauses, 

Utters  cries  that  chill  the  hearers. 

Stares  upon  the  drum  so  wildly 

That  each  waiting  heart  thumps  strangely, 

And  the  singers  drop  in  silence 

While  they  watch  the  great  physician, 

Note  his  every  turn  and  listen 

For  the  words  his  voice  will  utter — 

For  they  think  the  spirit  leads  him, 

Fills  him  with  itself  and  bids  him 

Speak  the  words  whose  import  solemn 


POWER    OF    THE    MEDICINE    MEN.  I  2/ 

Binds  them  to  enrich  the  doctor, 
Tliough  themselves  may  almost  perish. 
When  the  spirit  gives  its  message 
Down  the  Shaman  sinks  exhausted 
And  he  trembles  as  the  demon 
Leaves  his  frame  :  then  up  he  rises, 
Takes  the  down  from  out  his  head-piece, 
And  he  blows  it  o'er  the  people 
To  insure  the  fiend's  departure — 
Thus  to  make  it  sure  he  dare  not 
Turn  and  harm  the  savage  cowards. 
Now  the  doctor  dons  another 
Of  the  masks  so  meanly  senseless, 
Bangs  a  huge  and  noisy  rattle, 
Runs  and  screams  and  twists  and  dances 
While  the  chorus-singers'  chanting 
And  the  drum's  voice  blend  together, 
Making  sounds  more  wild  and  dirge-like 
As  the  weary  night  grows  onward. 
O'er  and  o'er  again  repeated 
Is  that  pandemonium  concert, 
Round  and  round  the  Shaman  rushes. 
Rolls  his  eyes  and  shouts  and  trembles! 


128  ALASKAN  A. 

Holds  the  fiend  within  his  body, 
While  his  own  soul  lies  unconscious 
Till  the  message  has  been  given, 
And  each  anxious  mortal  (jazes 
On  his  form  as  though  the  object 
Of  a  bear  with  jaws  distended, 
Or  a  devil,  horned  and  scowling, 
Would  not  in  the  least  surprise  them, 
From  his  quivering  frame  emerging. 
So  the  night  wanes,  slowly,  grimly, 
Freighted  with  such  fiendish  orgies, 
And  the  fair,  sweet  morning  tarries, 
Loath  to  meet  the  throng  so  grimy 
With  the  smoke  and  flakes  of  ashes 
That  were  blown  about  when  lifted 
By  the  Shaman's  whirling  antics  : 
Loath  to  soil  her  dainty  raiment 
With  the  smut  from  such  a  meeting. 
Or  to  show  her  blushincr  features 
Where  the  fiends  have  held  their  revel 
When  at  last  she  lifts  the  curtain, 
And  displays  the  sun  arising. 
Forth  that  trembling  throng  emerges 


POWER   OF   THE    MEDICINE    MEN.  1 29 

Hollow-eyed,  sad-faced,  with  terror 
Stamped  upon  their  blackened  features, 
Looking  here  and  there  expectant. 
Dreading  every  turn  may  bring  them 
Face  to  face  with  ghost  or  demon, 
While  they  count  the  pay  demanded 
By  each  spirit  for  its  portion. 
Till  their  stores  of  blankets  dwindle 
Frightfully  below  the  standard 
Of  the  wealth  they  dared  to  hope  for. 
But  they  may  not  brave  the  question. 
They  must  pay  without  a  murmur, 
Though  their  children,  frail  and  sickly, 
Die  for  want  of  food  and  clothing! 
Thoup-h  starvation  stands  before  them, 
With  its  painful,  grinding  horrors. 
Or  the  fiends  will  join  and  work  them 
Woes  too  terrible  to  mention — 
Bring  them  fate  so  sad  and  dreadful 
That  the  loss  of  wealth  were  nothing 
To  compare  with  pangs  so  fearful 
As  the  hate  of  fiends  would  give  them ! 


A  MEDICINE  MAN'S  BURIAL. 


AND  the  Shaman  died.     The  witches, 
^*-     Ever  cunning,  proved  so  wary 
That  at  last  they  gained  an  entrance 
To  his  hut  and  stole  a  rattle, 
With  it  calling  up  the  demon, 
First  among  the  dark  familiars 
Which  the  Shaman  always  conjured 
In  his  wonderful  profession. 
When  it  found  he  had  betrayed  it — 
For  it  thought  the  grinning  rattle 
Was  a  gift  of  his  bestowing, 
Knowing  not  that  daring  witches 
Had  purloined  the  signal  token — - 
Then  it  let  the  minor  demons 

(130) 


A    MEDICINE    MANS    BURIAL.  I3I 

Loose  upon  the  seeming  culprit, 
And  before  his  explanation 
Reached  a  point  but  half  convincing, 
They  had  proved  so  strong  in  number 
And  had  seized  him  while  unconscious 
Of  the  slightest  cause  or  caution, 
That  his  breath  grew  short  with  passion, 
Grew  so  weak  with  anxious  pleading, 
That  at  last  it  stopped.      The  doctor 
Breathed  no  more.      His  spirit  hurried 
To  a  babe,  whose  birth  that  moment 
Made  a  refuge  most  propitious. 
So  the  grinning,  angry  furies 
Skulked  away  ;  left  unaccomplished 
That  which  they  had  foully  purposed. 
Sneaked  away ;  but  moving  backward 
Kept  their  eyes  all  fixed  and  staring 
On  the  coldly,  silent  body. 
They  had  done  their  worst.  They  dare  not 
Touch  the  child  who  held  his  spirit, 
And  they  could  not  mar  the  body. 
For  protecting  friends  already 


132  ALASKAN  A. 

Held  it  in  their  careful  keeping. 

Round  him  drew  his  friends,  all  weeping, 

Relatives  in  ijrief  most  touching; 

Tore  their  hair,  distressed  their  bodies 

With  sharp  knives  and  burning  fagots, 

Ere  they  smeared  his  face  with  colors, 

Dressed  him  in  his  finest  clothing. 

Brought  his  rattles,  herbs  and  powder, 

BrouQfht  his  masks  and  drums  and  beaters 

And  his  wealth  of  furs  and  blankets — 

Tied  his  knees  against  his  body, 

Crowned  his  head  with  wands  and  feathers 

Flecked  with  down  of  swan  and  eagles. 

And  enthroned  him  in  a  corner 

Sitting  upright,  cold  and  stately, 

With  his  varied  wealth  around  him. 

There  they  left  him  till  the  rising 

Of  another  sun  gave  notice 

That  the  time  had  come  to  chano^e  him 

To  some  other  quiet  corner. 

Day  by  day  they  change  his  quarters. 

All  the  corners  must  receive  him. 


A    MEDICINE    MANS    HURIAL.  1 33 

And  they  left  him  in  each  station 
Over-night  until  the  morning  ; 
Meanwhile  feasting,  weeping,  moaning, 
Bowed  with  grief,  devoid  of  comfort! 
On  the  fifth  sad  day  they  gathered 
To  perform  the  final  honors — ■ 
Tied  him  to  a  board,  bedecked  him 
With  the  best  his  wardrobe  offered  ; 
Through  his  nose  a  wand  was  driven, 
Through  his  hair  another  fastened, 
Then  an  oddly-fashioned  basket 
Placed  upon  his  head,  and  blankets 
Wrapped  with  careful  hands  around  him ; 
And  at  last,  all  dressed  and  ready, 
To  the  grave  his  form  was  carried, — 
To  the  grave,  a  box-like  structure 
Mounted  on  four  posts  of  cedar. 
Shaded  by  a  lofty  totem 
Waiting  to  be  placed  above  it. 
Near  the  water's  edge  they  always 
Build  the  graves  for  Shaman  bodies ; 
And  they  left  him  there,  just  closing 


134  ALASKANA. 

Fast  the  door  that  no  one  ever 
Dares  to  open,  lest  the  spirit 
That  forever  guards  the  body 
Should  destroy  the  vile  intruder 
And  bring  trouble  on  his  people  ! 
Sometimes  Shaman  graves  are  builded 
On  the  rocks  upon  the  sea-coast, 
Sometimes  caves  the  sea  has  carven 
Holds  the  sacred,  crumbling  mummy. 
But  no  matter  what  the  casket, 
In  the  sight  and  sound  of  water 
Must  a  doctor's  corpse  be  buried — 
Near  the  sea  or  rushing  river 
Must  his  resting-place  be  founded. 
Awe  and  reverence  are  ever 
Shown  toward  these  lonely  places, 
And  a  youth's  initiation 
To  the  Shaman's  sacred  order 
Is  not  perfect  until  finished 
By  the  grave  of  some  great  doctor. 
When  the  people  need  to  pass  it, — 
Are  compelled  to  pass  the  grave-house, 


A    MEDICINE    MANS    BURIAL.  1 35 

Some  slight  gift  they  leave  beside  it 
To  propitiate  the  guardians, 
That  their  ire  may  not  be  kindled 
At  the  implicated  insult 
In  neglecting  such  a  duty. 
When  a  boatman  passes  by  it 
In  his  light  canoe,  he  always 
Drops  a  token  in  the  water. 
Hoping  thus  to  gain  good  fortune ; 
But  the  spirits  are  not  dainty, 
Almost  any  gift  will  serve  them, 
Just  a  slight  remembrance,  vested 
In  a  piece  of  dark  tobacco, 
Will  suffice  to  win  the  favor 
If  it  is  not  once  neglected ; 
Or  a  drop  of  oil,  some  berries, 
Or  a  fish  prepared  for  eating — 
Any  of  these  common  viands 
Are  received  with  marks  of  favor, 
Will  secure  the  trusting  giver 
With  a  safe  return,  and  likely 
Help  to  fill  his  hunting  basket 


136  ALASKANA. 

Witli  the  prey  he  longs  to  capture. 
Passing  by,  no  one  converses — 
Hushed  to  silence,  lightly  stepping, 
Fearfully  they  go  and  quickly, 
Always  dreading  to  disturb  him 
In  the  stillness  of  his  resting ! 
And  a  little  child  may  never 
Let  his  voice  be  heard  beside  it. 
If  it  must  be  brought  in  nearness 
To  the  weird  and  dreadful  dwelling, 
O'er  his  head  some  down  is  scattered 
And  then  blown  away  so  quickly 
That  it  scares  whatever  spirit 
Had  approached  the  young  intruder ; 
Thus  from  dreaded  ill  preserving 
Him  and  all  his  fond  relations. 
Strangely  lonely  are  these  grave  spots, 
With  their  totems  staring  outward 
O'er  the  river's  rippling  bosom. 
O'er  the  sea-waves'  endless  surging — 
Boldly  standing,  while  beneath  them 
Flesh  and  bone  are  fast  decaying, — 


A    MEDICINE    man's    BURIAL.  I  37 

Costly  blankets  growing  mouldy, 
Gaudy  clothing  crumbling  daily, 
All  becoming  dust  and  ashes: 
While  the  lifeless  wooden  image 
Still  upholds  its  graven  features, 
Holding  guard  for  years  together 
With  no  changes  but  the  touches 
That  time  leaves  upon  the  fibre, 
Mellowing  to  the  softest  greyness 
Every  curve  and  indentation, 
Every  puncture  of  the  knife-point, 
Every  line  so  deftly  graven 
By  a  hand  long  stilled,  long  resting 
From  the  work  it  loved  to  fashion  ! 


A  HAIDAH  TAAMISH. 


1X7' HEN   the  salmon  catch  is  over, 

^  And  the  fish  preserved  or  bartered; 

When  the  winter  stores  are  gathered, 
Safelv  housed  secure  from  robbers, 
Or  from  beasts  who  prowl,  and  seizing- 
Opportune,  unguarded  moments 
Bear  away  a  single  burden, 
That  would  give  the  careless  owners 
Food  for  many  dreary  meal-times; 
Then  there  comes  the  time  of  feasting, 
Conjuring,  and  holding  revels 
That  would  put  to  shame  the  orgies 
Of  a  host  of  fiends  and  witches! 
And  the  chief,  a  mighty  Shaman, 
(138) 


A    HAIDAH    TAAMISII.  1 39 

Held  in  awe  because  so  gifted 

Widi  the  power  to  hold  communion 

With  the  imps  and  all  things  fearful, 

Seeks  a  lonely  mountain  hollow, 

Or  a  gully,  wild  and  lonesome, 

Far  away  from  home  and  fellows, — 

Shuts  himself  alone,  securely 

From  the  gaze  of  friend  or  foemen — 

Almost  starves  himself — and  gathers 

Herbs  and  mosses  for  his  practice, — 

Seeks  around  for  fallen  spirits, — 

Until  frenzied  by  his  fasting 

And  his  wild  imaginations, 

He  is  lost  to  human  feelinof 

And  becomes  a  fiend  incarnate. 

Woe  to  one  whose  eyes  behold  him 

While  he  works  this  transformation! 

Naught  can  save  the  life,  no  mercy 

Meets  the  woeful  cry  for  pardon. 

Of  the  wretch  whose  eyes  have  seen  him ! 

Accident  or  full  intention 

Meet  with  equal,  cruel  justice, 


140  ALASKANA. 

And  the  crinoring  wretch  falls  lifeless 
When  the  Taamish  finds  him  gazing; 
Or  a  friend,  perhaps  a  brother, 
Kills  him,  if  the  Shaman's  failure 
To  behold  or  reach  the  culprit 
Leaves  him  for  a  time  in  freedom. 
If  he  dares  deny  the  charges, 
Tortures  fearful  rend  the  body 
Ere  he  gives  the  blow  that  severs 
From  the  frame  the  shrinking  spirit ! 
When  the  Taamish  o-ains  the  acme 
Of  his  wild,  insane  reHgion, 
And  the  "Naw-looks"  deign  to  answer 
When  he  calls  upon  them  wildly  ; 
Forth  he  rushes  from  his  hiding, 
Almost  naked,  starved  and  crazy. 
With  a  rinpf  of  russet  alder 
Round  his  throat,  and  on  his  forehead 
Bound  a  great,  fantastic  chaplet 
Which  accentuates  his  madness. 
On  he  comes  and  fiercely  seizes 
On  the  first  who  stands  before  him ; 


A    HAIDAH    TAAMISH.  I4I 

And  he  bites  great,  reeking  mouthfuls 

From  the  Hvinijf  flesh  and  eats  it — 

Swallows  with  sliirht  mastication 

One  or  two  large  bites,  still  pulsing 

With  the  heart's  frio-ht-hurried  action! 

On  he  rushes,  snapping,  biting, 

Catchin"-  here  and  there  another 

Who  will  never  dare  refuse  him 

Food  for  this  most  horrid  feasting  ! 

Some  there  are  so  wildly  frantic 

That  they  give  their  trembling  bodies 

That  the  sacred  chief  may  sever 

From  the  flesh  his  choicest  morsels  : 

While  they  all  display,  most  proudly, 

Wounds  and  scars  they  gained  while  yielding 

To  the  beastly  Shaman's  hunger. 

Men  and  women  crowd  around  him 

Awed,  beyond  their  wildest  dreaming, 

As  they  watch  the  human  tiger 

Tear  and  eat  their  groaning  comrades. 

While  his  lips  with  blood  are  streaming 

And  his  eyes  roll  blind  with  passion. 


142  ALASKANA. 

Some  have  died  with  wounds  inllicted 

By  die  Taamish  in  his  gorging; 

But  their  friends  are  proud  to  own  it 

And  to  show  the  cri"a-ve  that  never 

Friend  nor  witch  may  hope  to  open, 

For  'tis  now  and  always  sacred, 

Rendered  so  by  Taamish  teeth-marks 

In  the  torn  and  poisoned  body. 

When  at  last  the  chieftain's  stomach, 

Gorged  to  bursting,  grows  too  heavy, 

Down  he  sinks  in  bestial  torpor — 

Lies  for  days,  as  vile  a  monster 

As  the  meanest  crawling  serpent, 

With  no  more  of  soul-life  throbbing 

Than  a  foul,  begorged  hyena — 

While  his  breath,  slow  drawn  and  heavy. 

Gives  a  fearful  exhalation. 

Like  a  coffin  quickly  opened 

After  days  of  tight  enclosure. 

Thus  he  sleeps  :     Each  moment  makes  him 

More  and  more  a  sacred  object ! 

While  his  anxious  people,  watching, 


A    HAIDAH    TAAMISH.  1 43 

Stay  with  bated  breath  beside  him 

And  await  his  tardy  wakening  : — 

Wait  to  hear  the  first,  deep  saying- 

That  his  elevated  spirit 

Will  pronounce  when  life  has  quickened 

In  his  frame,  by  man-flesh  nourished! 

Now  he  turns  and  sitjhs  and  stretches, 

Grunts  and  groans,  and  slowly  rises. 

While  his  blood-shot  eyes  gaze  round  him 

In  a  state  absurd,  bewildered, — 

And  his  lips,  as  dry  as  parchment, 

Crack  when  moved  to  call  for  water, 

Which  is  brought  with  haste  more  eager 

That  the  giver  longs  to  listen, 

And  to  see  the  smallest  action 

Of  this  noble,  gifted  doctor 

Who  has  thus  prepared  his  body 

And  his  brains  for  great  achievements — 

Who  has  built  a  reputation 

That  will  brine  him  wealth  and  honor, 

And  increase  the  slavish  homage 

Of  these  poor,  benighted  people  ! 


THE  ALASKA  INDIAN'S  FUNERAL. 


T_J  E  has  died  !  although  the  doctor 

PHed  his  arts  with  zeal  so  earnest 
That  his  screams  and  shouts  were  echoed 
From  the  hills  around  the  dwelling; 
Sounding  out  so  strange  and  fearful, 
That  the  birds  and  beasts  were  friehtened 
And  produced  a  dismal  chorus. 
All  nightlong  he  yelled  and  pounded 
On  the  hardened  floor  with  drum-sticks, 
When  he  was  not  shakino-  rattles 
Or  performing  queer  gymnastics 
Round  the  fire  whose  blaze  he  heightened 
With  his  charms  and  magic  powder — 
With  the  breeze  his  garb  created 

(144) 


THE    ALASKA    INDIANS    FUNERAL.  1 45 

When  he  rushed  so  swiftly  round  it 

That  his  form  assumed  a  fig-ure 

Human  part,  and  part  a  demon  ! 

Though  he  waved  his  wands  above  him 

And  performed  such  stirring  music 

In  the  varied  songs  he  chanted, 

Kindly  bending  o'er  the  dying. 

Yet  he  died  ! — the  soul  unorrateful 

Fled  and  left  the  aching  body — 

Left  the  friends  who  watched  around  him, 

Hoping  that  his  trying  ailment 

Would  depart  in  smoke  of  powder, 

Or  would  take  a  swift  departure 

With  the  fiend  who  caused  the  illness, 

When  they  paid  their  finest  blankets 

To  the  Shaman,  who  had  promised 

By  his  ^rts  to  fright  the  spirit 

If  his  charms  could  not  appease  it! 

He  has  left  the  doctor  troubled 

At  the  fate  that  stands  and  threatens 

Till  he  finds  the  one  whose  witchcraft 

Wrought  this  terrible  bereavement. 


146  ALASKANA. 

He  has  died;  around  him  gather, 
Wives  and  children,  friends,  relations, 
Wailing,  moaning,  as  they  paint  him, — 
Paint  his  face  and  hands  with  lamp-black, 
Lined  with  red  and  glaring  yellow — 
Weeping  as  they  bend  his  body 
Till  his  knees  are  near  his  bosom: 
Bind  him  so,  then  dress  him  warmly, 
In  his  garments,  furs  and  blankets  ; 
Gather  round  him  all  his  treasures 
As  he  sits  in  deathly  stillness: 
And  so  let  him  rest  in  waiting 
For  the  last  sad  rites  that  send  him 
Toward  the  land  beyond  the  river. 
Then  they  cut  their  hair,  and  darken 
Face  and  hands  with  oil  and  blacking, — 
Call  the  friends  to  meet  and  join  them 
In  the  funeral  feast  and  aid  them 
In  the  dear  one's  sad  cremation. 
All  night  long  some  smoke,  and  hammer 
On  the  floor  with  staves,  while  others 
Sing  a  weird  and  solemn  ditty, 


THE    ALASKA    INDIANS    FUNERAL.  1 47 

Joined  by  women's  cries  and  moanings, 
While  they  tear  their  hair  and,  sometimes, 
Slash  their  limbs  till  blood  and  blackine 
Flow  in  streamlets  on  their  clothinof. 
Just  as  morning  tints  the  mountains 
With  its  rosy  light  they  hasten 
To  the  pyre  that  some  have  builded 
While  the  rest  were  wildly  mourning, — 
Built  of  lo^s  of  fir  and  cedar, 
Joined  and  fitted  like  a  cabin, 
With  fat  chips  of  pine  all  ready 
To  io-nite  and  orreet  the  mornino- 
With  a  smoke  in  rolling  volumes 
And  bright  tongues  of  flame  as  ruddy 
As  the  sunlight's  first  appearing. 
So  the  pyre  awaits  the  coming 
Of  the  corpse  at  early  dawning  ; 
Then  they  lift  the  painted  body, 
Wrapped  in  blankets  rich  and  costly, 
Lift  it  through  the  roof,  or  bear  it 
Through  a  hole  just  freshly  opened — 
For  no  corpse  is  ever  carried 


148  ALASKANA. 

Through  the  door-way  of  a  building 
Lest  the  fiendish  spirits  waiting 
For  its  coming  should  molest  it ; 
Should  accompany  the  spirit 
On  its  way  beyond  the  water. — 
But,  before  the  dead  is  lifted 
Through  the  roof  or  other  opening, 
Some  one  holds  a  dog  and  drives  it 
Swiftly  past  the  silent  body. 
So  they  cheat  the  waiting  furies 
Who,  in  blinded  hate,  attack  him, 
Thinking  all  their  angry  plunges 
Are  bestowed  upon  the  dead  one, 
Knowing  not  their  foolish  blunder 
Till  the  corpse  is  far  beyond  them 
And  the  sacred  fire  all  ready 
Touches  it  and  so  preserves  it 
From  their  vile,  vindictive  clutches ! 
Solemnly  they  lay  the  body 
On  the  logs  and  chips,  and  with  it 
Pile  fine  blankets,  fish  and  berries. 
Oil  and  furs  and  totem  dishes, — 


THE    AI>ASKA    INDIANS    FUNERAL.  1 49 

And  for  light  the  reddish  powder 
Which  is  used  on  all  occasions 
When  a  special  light  is  needed. 
When  the  corpse  is  all  surrounded 
With  the  necessary  adjuncts 
For  his  long  and  fateful  journey. 
One  or  two  old  men  approach  it 
And  ignite  the  chips  and  branches; 
Close  beside  the  pile  they  linger 
Till  the  fire  is  kindled  surely. 
When  the  whole  great  pile  is  blazing 
Then  the  widows  fall  upon  it, 
Lean  their  heads  upon  the  bosom 
Of  the  lord  they  duly  honor, 
Holding  close  beside  his  body 
Till  their  hair  is  singed  and  crackles. 
Till  their  faces  feel  the  scorching 
And  they  cannot  bear  the  burning. 
Sometimes  friends  will  kindly  aid  them 
In  their  mournful,  solemn  duty, 
And  will  lift  and  throw  them  forward 
On  the  blistering,  scorching  body  ; 
Then  they  turn  away,  and  screaming 


1 50  ALASKANA. 

Writhe  and  twist  like  wounded  serpents- 
Throw  themselves  again  upon  him, 
Showing  thus  their  fond  devotion, 
Until  nature  cannot  longer 
Bear  the  strain  imposed  so  madly, 
And  some  tortured,  mourning  creatures 
Are  by  force  removed,  while  others 
Sink  exhausted  almost  dying  ! 
When  the  fire  has  spent  its  fury 
Faithfully  they  search  the  embers 
And  remove  the  bones  and  ashes, — 
Gather  every  grain  and  place  them 
In  a  box  prepared  expressly 
For  the  dead  to  rest  in  safety. 
Safely  they  will  place  the  casket 
In  the  totem-pole  that  waits  it 
Close  beside  the  open  door-way ; 
Or  within  a  tiny  building 
Which,  with  others,  stands  in  waiting. 
In  a  spot  secluded,  lonely, 
For  the  ashes  and  the  offerings 
That  must  stand  prepared  for  spirits 
Who  might  otherwise  disturb  them, — 


THE    ALASKA    INDIANS    FUNERAL.  I5I 

Those  pale  ashes  of  the  lost  one, 

In  their  search  for  food  and  clothine. 

In  its  resting-place  they  leave  it, 

With  more  blankets,  food  and  powder, 

With  their  light  canoe  in  waiting 

If  the  soul  should  need  its  shelter : 

Then  they  homeward  turn,  still  wailing, 

Mourning,  comfortless  and  lonely : 

And  for  days  they  fast,  and  never 

Wash  their  smeared  and  blackened  faces. 

Never  cease  to  sing  his  praises 

And  bewail  his  final  absence. 

Now  the  scarred  and  blistered  widows 

Hide  away,  unseen,  unnoticed. 

While  the  heirs  prepare  for  feasting — 

For  the  feast,  the  great  Co-e-ky, 

In  which  all  the  friends  will  join  them 

And  the  dear,  departed  spirits 

Who  have  gone  before,  will  meet  them 

And  partake  of  all  the  feasting 

When  the  fire  has  made  the  viands 

Fit  for  such  pure  guests  to  handle — 

Fit  for  spirit-life  refreshment ! 


INDIAN'S  DREAD  OF  DROWNING. 


jy^  ILL  him  with  a  spear  or  arrow, 

Beat  his  Hfe  away  with  war-clubs  ; 
Crush  him,  bruise  him,  yes,  dismember 
Every  quivering  Hmb  and  muscle  ! 
Torture  him  till  life  refuses 
To  remain  and  bear  the  anguish ! 
And  the  Indian  will  not  murmur 
If  it  saves  him  from  the  terror 
Of  a  death  beneath  the  water : 
If  by  any  of  those  by-ways 
He  is  saved  from  death  by  drowning, 
He  will,  cheerfully  submitting, 
Bare  his  bosom  for  the  knife-blade 
Of  the  hand  that  kindly  guards  him 
('52) 


Indian's  dread  of  drowning.  153 

From  the  water's  dreadful  clutches. 

Though  his  food  is  mostly  taken 

From  the  rollinor  seas  and  channels ; 

Though  his  greatest  wealth  is  borrowed 

From  the  creatures  found  within  them  ; 

And  he  roams  upon  the  surface, 

In  his  light  canoe,  as  safely 

As  the  bird  who  darts  upon  them 

And  secures  its  finny  victim  ; 

Yet  he  never  fails  to  calm  them 

With  an  offering  for  the  spirit, 

Who  can  still  the  w^ater's  heaving, 

Or  can  bid  it  rise  and  capture 

For  its  own,  the  reckless  Siwash, 

Who  has  failed  to  make  a  present 

To  the  god  forever  waiting 

For  the  chance  to  work  some  trouble 

On  a  helpless  human  victim. 

If  you    ask  them  why  so  dreadful 

Is  the  fate  they  fear  attaining, 

They  will  tell  you  one,  who  drowning, 

Has  been  called  beyond  life's  border. 


154  ALASKANA. 

Must  forever  wander,  laden 
With  the  dust  of  earth  around  him. 
He  is  wholly  without  clothing 
Or  provisions  for  his  journey 
Toward  the  land,  which  even  others 
Find  it  hard  to  reach  and  enter. 
He  must  wander  cold  and  naked, 
Hungry,  without  light  to  guard  him 
To  the  shore  so  faint  and  distant. 
He  may  hear  the  gentle  oar-dip 
That  impels  the  sacred  life-boat, 
But  he  cannot  see  the  boatmen 
Nor  approach  the  sea-proof  vessel. 
Some  will  pass  him,  richly  laden, 
Burdened  with  their  costly  blankets. 
With  their  food  of  fish  and  berries, 
Crystal  oil  and  creamy  blubber, 
With  their  lights  so  brightly  burning 
That  the  blaze  can  almost  reach  him ; 
But  the  darkness  pressed  around  him 
Will  not  yield  its  gloomy  shadow — 
Will  not  let  one  ray  reveal  him 


INDIANS    DREAD    OF    DROWNING.  1 55 

To  the  light  canoe  that  wanders 

O'er  the  dark-green  waves,  and  bears  them, — 

Those  whose  fate  have  bade  them  Hnger 

In  the  darkness  for  a  season, 

To  the  fields  beyond  the  river. 

He  may  hear  them  gayly  singing 

As  they  near  the  joyful  country  ; — 

But  his  voice  may  never  join  them, 

Tho'  his  heart  be  full  of  music  ! 

He  may  bound  upon  the  billows 

Which  the  cleaving  vessel,  foaming. 

Forces  back  with  every  oar-stroke, 

But  they  only  bear  him  backwards 

Into  deeper  gloom  and  sorrow. 

Friends  may  pass,  they  would  not  know  him, 

Tho'  he  touched  their  hands  in  passing, 

Tho'  they  heard  his  labored  breathing 

As  he  strove  to  gain  a  hand-hold 

On  the  safely  guided  row-boat. 

Ages  on  he  may  be  wafted 

Close  beside  the  sailino-  haven  ; 

Even  then,  the  shore,  the  free  land 


56  ALASKAN  A. 

Will  be  far  beyond  his  reaching  ! 
And  if  some  bright  day  awakens 
That  will  find  him  surely  landed, 
He  may  hear  the  joyful  laughter 
And  the  feasting  he  may  witness — 
That  is  all.      He  cannot  join  them, 
Nor  partake  of  light  and  freedom, 
For  he  came  among  them,  hopeless ! 
With  no  food,  nor  light,  nor  garment, 
And  there  is  not  one  to  offer, 
To  a  poor  drowned  soul  one  comfort. 
They  will  let  him  look,  but  pass  him 
As  an  angel  should  a  serpent, — 
Asa  pure,  bright  soul  should  gather 
Round  its  frame,  its  ether  garments 
And  refuse  to  touch  the  spirit 
Evil  as  the  power  of  darkness  ! 


CO-E-KY  OR  DEATH  FEAST. 


N  TOW  the  funeral  rites  are  over — 
All  the  ashes  safely  gathered — 
Though  the  smouldering  pyre,  still  smoking, 
Tells  how  recent  the  cremation — 
When  the  tribe,  but  now  so  mournful, 
Sends  an  invitation,  asking 
That  a  neighboring  tribe  will  join  them 
In  a  feast,  in  proud  remembrance 
Of  the  one  so  lately  taken 
From  their  midst,  despite  the  efforts 
Of  themselves  and  skilful  doctors 
To  affright  the  foe,  who  conquered 
And  destroyed  the  life  so  quickly. 
Yes,  the  tribe  will  come,  for  never 

('57) 


158  ALASKAN  A. 

Is  their  other  duty  stronger 
Than  a  potlatch  or  ko-e-ky 
To  the  Indians  of  Alaska. 
All  the  guests  come,  freshly  painted, 
Striped  with  black,  and  rich  vermilion, 
And  the  mourners,  too,  have  added 
Streaks  of  red  across  their  faces. 
Now  they  enter,  each  one  holding 
Round  his  form  a  dancing  blanket, 
Some  of  snowy  white  with  trimming 
Of  a  richly  tinted  border — 
Others  covered  o'er  with  emblems 
Borrowed  from  their  choicest  totems, 
With  the  long  and  waving  fringes 
Adding  grace  to  every  motion. 
Soon  they  sing  and  shout  together, 
Making  odd  and  dismal  noises. 
Though  the  rhymes  are  often  perfect 
And  the  measure  finely  chosen — 
Singing  on  they  grow  more  social, 
Even  grow  enthusiastic ; 
And  their  feet  and  bodies  quiver 


CO-E-KY    OR    DEATH    FEAST.  1 59 

With  the  power  the  music  wakens  ; 
Till  a  dancing  sprite  possesses 
All  the  mournful  crowd  assembled, 
And,  with  one  prevailing  impulse, 
Every  creature,  swiftly  rising, 
Joins  in  wild,  ecstatic  motion, 
While  the  sinoinor — and  the  shoutine 
Ebbs  and  flows,  now  almost  silent — 
Now  to  shrieks  and  whoops  arising 
Until  all,  at  last  exhausted, 
Seat  themselves  around  the  dishes. 
Near  the  grreat,  invitingf  dishes. 
Totem  carved  and  richly  laden 
With  the  luscious  oil  of  salmon. 
And  the  bright,  delicious  berries 
Floating  round  in  tempting  beauty. 
Of  this  dish  the  hungry  Indian 
Never  wearies  ;   not  a  feast  time 
Would  be  perfect  if  this  mixture 
Did  not  hold  the  post  of  honor 
On  the  floor  where  all  can  see  it — 
If  the  dishes  were  not  brimming- 


I  60  ALASKAN  A. 

With  the  strangely  sorted  compound. 

Seated,  round  the  totem  dishes, 

Graven  with  the  dead  one's  emblem. 

All  engage  in  friendly  discourse 

While  they  feast  in  social  manner. 

Each  one,  with  his  own  spoon,  dipping 

From  the  dish  a  noble  portion 

Which  he  deftly  lifts  and  carries 

To  his  lips  and  gently  swallows, 

O'er  and  o'er  again  repeating 

Until  satisfied  ;  he  rises, 

Stows  away  his  spoon,  engraven 

With  his  tribal  crest  or  totem. 

And  ao-ain  the  dance  continues 

With  more  music,  weird  and  noisy. 

All  the  while  the  fire  is  cracklingr 

With  the  sugar,  oil  and  berries  ; 

With  the  dried  meat,  fish  and  flour, 

Which  they  burn  to  make  them  wholesome 

For  the  spirit  that  is  lingering, 

Joining  in  the  grand  co-e-ky, 

Ere  it  leaves  to  make  its  journey 


CO-E-KY    OR    DEATH    FEAST.  l6l 

Toward  the  land  of  light  and  beauty. 

Dancinof,  sintrinir,  still  oo  onward 

While  attendants  make  all  ready 

For  the  great  display  of  blankets, 

Calico  and  cloth  and  muslin, 

Briofht  and  new,  that  wait  the  motion 

Of  one  man,  whose  high  position 

Makes  him  worthy  of  such  honor 

As  the  chief  whose  hand  shall  spread  them 

With  an  equal,  just  division. 

There  they  lie  in  piled  confusion. 

Blankets  fine  and  rich  and  coarser, 

With  whole  webs  of  snowy  muslin. 

Calico  of  brio-htest  shadinQ^ — 

Brown  and  yellow,  green  and  azure — 

And  good  clothes  of  heavy  texture 

Lying  there,  and  in  their  silence 

Speaking  loud  of  days  of  hunting. 

Weary  nights  of  anxious  waiting 

For  the  fish  to  bite  and  enter 

In  the  nets  in  crystal  water. 

Ready  to  entomb  the  salmon  ; 


1 62  ALASKANA. 

Or,  perhaps,  they  tell  of  battles 

With  the  moose  or  lumbering  walrus, 

Or  of  scenes  where  beasts  were  captured 

For  their  soft  and  lovely  seal-skins  ; 

But,  however  they  were  purchased, 

There  they  are,  a  houseful  fortune 

It  has  taken  years  to  gather — 

And  perhaps  its  loss  will  beggar 

This  proud  house  and  all  belonging ; 

But  they  bring  them  forth  and  give  them 

As  the  great,  the  crowning  feature 

Of  this  feast,  to  show  how  wealthy 

Was  the  one  whose  days  are  numbered — 

Vieing  with  their  tribal  neighbors 

In  the  goods  they  gladly  lavish 

Though  they  suffer  cold  and  hunger 

When  the  wintry  days  grow  shorter — 

Though  long  years  may  pass  above  them 

Ere  they  gain  an  equal  fortune. 

Now  the  chieftain  calls  to  silence, 

And  the  guests  dispose  their  bodies 

In  the  manner  each  one  chooses, 


CO-E-KY    OR    DEATH    FEAST.  1 63 

As  they  hush  to  perfect  stillness, 
Watching  with  a  close  attention 
Every  action  of  the  chieftain, 
And  the  two  important  persons 
Who  are  acting  as  assistants. 
With  a  hook  of  form  peculiar, 
Carven  for  this  purpose  only, 
Inlaid  with  designs  in  silver 
Or  of  bone,  or  ivory  polished 
Till  it  glistens  as  he  moves  it 
Through  the  wool  and  cotton  fabrics, 
Tearing  them  in  narrow  pieces. 
And  by  aid  of  those  who  help  him 
Giving  them  around  so  wisely 
That  each  present  may  be  favored 
With  a  stripe  to  keep  as  token 
Of  this  great  and  noble  feast-day. 
And  may  name  the  absent  mortal 
Whose  departure  they  are  stamping 
When  they  gaze  upon  the  remnant 
Of  the  clearly  treasured  dry-goods. 
Each  one  keeps  his  riven  treasure 


164  ALASKANA. 

Until  two  or  three  are  gathered, 
Then,  to  further  guard  the  pieces, 
He  or  she  will  have  a  ofarment 
Formed  perhaps  of  many  colors 
And  of  divers  kinds  of  weaving — 
Wool  and  cotton,  fine  and  coarser 
Making  of  the  precious  garment 
Something  so  grotesque,  so  glaring, 
That  no  creature  but  a  savage 
Could  resfard  it  as  a  treasure  ! 
Now  the  great  death  feast  Is  ended — 
To  their  homes  repair  the  neighbors — 
On  its  journey  starts  the  spirit, 
And,  if  rich,  the  heir  makes  ready 
To  erect  a  fitting  tribute 
To  remain  forever  standing 
In  remembrance  of  this  feast-day 
And  the  one  it  meant  to  honon 


FESTIVAL  OF  U-Gl-AK. 


TTUNTERS  save  with  careful  handling 

All  their  deer  and  wild-goat  bladders, 
Those  of  beasts  they  kill  with  arrows, 
Whether  land  or  water  mammals  ; 
And  they  keep  them  all  as  perfect 
As  the  rarest  sportsmen  trophies  ; 
Keep  them  where  no  hand  shall  touch  them 
To  destroy  their  full  expansion 
When  the  feast,  for  which  they're  cherished, 
Comes  with  bleak  and  chill  December. 
Mothers  keep  them,  when  their  children 
Take  the  life  of  rat  and  ground  squirrel — 
When  the  small,  incipient  hunters 
Kill  the  tiny  mice  that  scamper 

(165) 


1 66  ALASKANA. 

Through  the  dry  and  rusding-  grasses — 
Until  winter  calls  the  coast-tribes 
To  the  feast,  in  which  those  bladders 
Take  the  leading  part,  in  honor 
Of  the  spirits  who  hold  fortune 
Or  distress  for  those  that  wander 
O'er  the  restless  seas  and  oceans. 
When  December  comes,  they  gather 
And  inflate  the  strange  collection, — 
From  the  smallest,  that  an  infant 
Has  secured  in  summer  rambles. 
To  the  greatest,  that  some  hunter 
May  have  risked  his  life  to  capture. 
They  expand  them  till  they  glisten 
Like  queer  globes  and  bouncing  bubbles, 
And  then  paint  them  in  all  colors 
That  the  native  art  can  furnish  ; 
Striped,  and  waved,  and  oddly  varied 
As  the  painters'  taste  may  dictate. 
Then  they  make  fantastic  figures 
Of  their  fa^vorlte  birds  and  fishes, 
Carved  with  skill  and  colored  brightly 


FESTIVAL    OF    U-GT-AK.  1 67 

Far  beyond  old  nature's  tinting. 
Of  the  birds,  some  are  so  fashioned 
As  to  move  their  legs  and  eyelids, 
And  to  flap  their  wings  as  freely 
As  if  life  produced  the  action. 
These  they  hang  among  the  bladders 
On  the  beams  within  the  Kash-ka. 
All  the  birds  and  fish-like  figures, 
All  the  gayly  painted  bladders, 
Are  upon  small  cords  suspended 
From  the  Kash-ka's  smoky  rafters. 
On  the  hearth  a  pole  is  rested. 
Bound  around  with  withered  grasses 
And  with  stems  of  weeds  and  mosses 
They  have  gathered  for  tliis  feast-day. 
Now  the  natives  all  assemble 
And  they  chant  the  sea-god's  praises. 
While  the  men,  with  constant  jerking, 
Keep  the  figures  all  in  motion, — 
Keep  the  bladders  bouncing  wildly 
In  and  out,  among  the  fishes 
And  the  birds  with  flapping  pinions. 


l68  ALASKANA. 

Then  the  men  and  women  rising- 
Form  in  line  before  them  sagely, 
And  they  dance,  first  with  motion 
Slow  and  solemn,  gaining  swiftness 
As  the  moments  fly,  and  spirits 
Rise  in  strange,  fanatic  worship. 
Bounding,  dancing,  whooping,  chanting, 
On  they  go  before  the  objects, 
Holdincj  in  their  hands  briorht  torches 
Fed  with  oil  from  seals  and  fishes. 
On  tlie  shore  they  stand  in  silence, 
While  the  cords  are  tightly  fastened 
To  the  sticks,  and  heavy  weighted 
With  large  stones  they  find  are  scattered 
All  along  the  gloomy  shore-line. 
Then  they  chant  again  in  voices 
Rincfincrout  across  the  sea-waves, 
While  the  men  cast  forth  the  offering 
To  the  gods  of  wind  and  water. 
Silent  now,  each  native  watches ! 
And  the  great,  dark  eyes  grow  earnest. 
For  those  bladders  tell  the  story 


FESTIVAL    OF    U-GI-AK.  1  69 

Of  success  or  heartless  failure 

In  the  coming  year's  endeavors. 

Just  how  long  they  float  is  noted, 

And  the  Shamen  count  the  ring-waves 

That  denote  the  bladder's  sinking 

To  arise  no  more  forever  ! 

And  they  tell  with  bold  precision 

How  one  owner  may  be  laden 

With  a  wealth  of  skins  and  blubber, 

With  supplies,  both  rich  and  plenty, 

From  the  sea  and  mountain  passes ; 

While  another  bows  most  humbly 

To  the  dismal-toned  prediction 

Of  the  poor  returns  his  fish-net 

Will  bestow  upon  his  labors, — 

How  his  harpoons  all  will  fasten 

Far  astray  from  walrus  vitals, — 

How  the  seals  will  all  be  damaged 

That  he  thought  were  fine  and  healthy — 

How  stern  fate  has  nothing  for  him 

But  distress,  disease,  starvation  ! 


POTLATCH. 


A  A  HEALTH  had  come  to  Sitka's  chieftain- 
Wealth  in  furs  and  costly  blankets — 
Wondrous  wealth  in  land  and  servants : 
Slaves,  v^ho  bowed  in  humble  postures 
When  he  deigned  to  pass  so  near  them 
As  to  see  the  abject  worship 
Which  their  bended  figures  tokened, 
Watched  his  every  look  and  motion, 
Lest  the  slightest  flaw  in  service 
Should  condemn  the  cringing  creature 
To  be  burned,  or  fiercely  beaten, 
To  be  thrown  on  prickly  branches, 
Or  to  be  most  basely  murdered. 
Then  this  chief,  whose  wealth  was  boundless, 

(170) 


POTLATCH.  I  7 1 

Thought  to  make  his  power  more  certain, 
And  to  awe  his  shrinking  subjects 
With  his  grand,  supreme  importance. — 
So  he  called  his  friends  around  him 
And  declared  his  large  intention 
To  indulije  his  friends  and  neicrhbors 
With  the  feast  their  souls  held  dearest, 
With  the  finest,  lordliest  potlatch 
That  the  tribe  had  dreamed  of  ever ! 
At  that  time  the  strong  foundations 
Of  his  large,  new  house  should  echo 
With  the  sounds  of  feast  and  revel 
Such  as  no  bold  predecessor 
Had  the  wealth  or  power  to  equal. 
In  a  space  beyond  the  Kashga, 
Where  the  men  were  all  assembled, 
Slaves  upreared  a  pile  of  branches. 
And  of  trunks  of  firs  and  spruces, 
And  around  laid  withered  grasses, 
Crossed  with  chips,  all  oiled  and  ready 
To  ignite  and  blaze  up  brightly 
When  the  brands  were  placed  upon  them. 


172  ALASKAN  A. 

All  prepared,  the  signal  sounded 
From  the  drums  the  Shamen  carried, 
To  announce  the  grand  commencement 
Of  the  feast  they  all  awaited — 
Of  the  Potlatch,  that  would  render 
So  much  grace  to-day  and  always 
To  the  chief  so  brave  and  noble. 
Up  the  fiery  tongues  ascended  ! 
Crackling  firs  gave  out  their  incense, 
Balmy  spruces  lent  their  odors 
To  the  curling  smoke,  that  wafted 
By  the  evening  breezes,  wandered 
In  and  out  amone  the  dwellings, 
Through  the  Kashga's  open  doorway, 
And  around  the  crowd  assembled 
For  the  wild  and  weird  performance. 
When  the  blaze  had  risen  brightly 
And  had  shown  the  waiting  concourse 
All  the  gay,  fantastic  fashions 
And  the  paint  profusely  lavished. 
Forth  they  came,  most  grave  and  silent' — 
All  the  friends  and  guests  invited 


rOTLATCH.  1 73 

To  perform  the  dance  that  wakens 

In  the  savage  heart  such  passion, 

That  his  eyes  grow  brightly  eager, 

And  his  Hmbs,  although  unbidden, 

Join  in  time  to  song  and  drum-beat. 

Forth  they  came,  their  costumes  varied 

As  the  taste  of  each  had  chosen, 

Beast  or  bird  or  strangle  combininir 

Of  the  furs  of  beasts,  and  feathers 

Plucked  from  water-birds,  or  stolen 

From  the  wines  of  owl  or  eaofle. 

Heads  were  dressed  in  lofty  fabrics 

Made  on  basket-like  foundations, 

And  with  puffs  of  down  or  cotton 

Fastened  on  in  such  queer  manner 

That  they  bowed,  and  bounced,  and  trembled 

As  each  wearer  swayed  his  shoulders 

In  the  dance,  whose  every  figure 

Grew  more  wild  as  nieht  fjrew  onward! 

Heads  of  beasts,  ferocious,  snarling ; 

Heads  of  birds  in  act  of  screaming. 

Or  of  eagles,  owls,  and  ravens, 


174  ALASKANA. 

Still,  sedate,  and  wisely  silent — 
Each  in  turn  was  borne  grotesquely 
On  some  manly  brow  or  shoulder, — 
And  their  faces  gleamed  and  glistened 
Light  with  oil  and  black  with  pine-soot, 
Barred  with  startlinof  lines  and  dashes. 
There  they  stood,  bedraped  in  blankets, 
White  and  gayly  dyed,  contrasting 
As  the  fire-light  glared  and  flickered 
With  the  wind's  capricious  breathing. 
Some,  arrayed  in  scantier  clothing. 
Showed  their  bodies  stained  and  painted, 
One  with  all  the  others  vying 
In  the  forms  and  artful  tintings 
That  bedecked  his  wiry  sinews, 
And  his  toil-expanded  muscles. 
In  a  line  they  stood  awaiting 
For  the  master's  welcome  signal. 
Then  the  women  came  behind  them, 
Dressed  in  garbs  so  wild  and  varied 
As  to  point  derisive  fingers 
At  the  one  who  dared  to  venture 


POTLATCH.  175 

To  describe  the  wondrous  fashions. 

On  dieir  heads  dieir  silver  bracelets 

Nodded,  scintillated,  trembled. 

As  the  cracklincr  fire's  reflection 

Struck  their  burnished  points  and  edges, 

Or  as  every  wearer's  movements 

Called  for  answerincjf  turns  and  flashes. 

Then  the  dance  began,  first  slowly. 

And  then  faster,  as  the  sincrers 

Warmed  and  orew  enthusiastic  ! 

Now  from  side  to  side  they  doubled, 

And  then  hopped,  and  stooped,  and  gathered 

All  their  limbs  as  close  together 

As  their  dress  and  joints  allowed  them. 

And  with  yell  and  bound  sprung  forward, 

Like  fierce  crabs  or  angry  spiders, 

Makinor  wild  confusion  wilder 

As  they  turned,  and  swayed,  and  jostled, 

Every  one  so  deeply  earnest 

That  he  scarcely  seemed  to  nodce, 

Though  his  neighbor's  interference 

Spoiled  his  most  grotesque  performance. 


176  ALASKANA. 

Thus  the  men  danced,  while  the  women, 
Eyes  downcast,  and  hands  held  loosely, 
Rose  and  dropped  in  time  according 
With  the  chant  their  lips  were  singing, 
Wilder,  weirder  grew  the  music, 
Fiercer  every  dancer's  motion. 
While  the  fiery  pile  roared  louder, 
And  the  blaze  grew  hot  and  hotter, 
Till  at  last  the  fire  glowed  dimly. 
And  the  dancers,  warm  and  weary, 
Took  with  haste  the  feast  of  blubber 
And  the  floating  cakes  of  berries. 
Silence  reigned  until  the  feasters. 
Fed  to  full  and  glad  repletion. 
Turned  to  wait  the  crowning  glory 
Of  the  chieftain's  generous  potlatch. 
Spread  before  the  men  appointed 
Were  the  gifts  his  bounty  offered 
To  his  friends  and  brave  supporters. 
Blankets  rich  in  shining  texture 
And  in  colors  rare  and  costly, 
Woven  in  the  best  desiofninor 


POTLATCH.  177 

Of  Alaska's  gentle  weavers  ; 

Furs  of  firmest  pelt  and  fibre, 

Glossy,  beautiful  and  lasting ; 

Bowls  and  pipes  and  vessels  carven 

In  most  strange  and  rare  devices  ; 

Calico,  whose  glaring  figures 

Made  the  savage  eyes  gaze,  longing 

To  possess  such  strands  of  beauty. 

And  all  these  were  made  to  gladden 

Some  of  those  who  watched  expectant. 

There  they  went,  the  pile  grew  smaller; 

Furs  departed,  tinted  cotton. 

Torn  in  stripes,  already  swaddled 

With  its  folds,  dark  arms  and  shoulders. 

All  the  gifts  were  proudly  lavished 

While  the  same  low  song  continued 

From  the  women,  who  were  never 

Counted  with  the  friends  receiving 

Gifts  of  grace  from  chieftain  donors. 

All  was  done,  the  guests  departed 

Richer  far  in  costly  fragments, 

And  the  chief,  more  proud  and  lordly, 


178  ALASKANA. 

With  his  store  of  wealth  diminished, 

But  with  pride  so  overflowing, 

And  with  expectations  swelling, 

Until  no  past  chief  had  ever 

Reached  his  height  of  grand  importance  ! 


HOT  SPRINGS  OF  ALASKA. 


/^"^IRT  by  oceans  never  silent; 

Always  sighing,  roaring,  breaking 
Into  sobs  when  lashed  too  fiercely 
By  the  storm's  resistless  fury  ! 
Shouting,  as  it  leaps  and  dashes 
O'er  the  coast  in  maddest  frolic, 
Bearing  trophies  from  the  rock-points 
Of  its  wildly  daring  visits — 
Cut  by  channels,  deep  and  narrow 
And  by  other  winding  channels 
Wide,  and  flecked  with  island  beauty — 
Cut  by  straits  and  shore-lines,  wearing 
Varied  features,  stern  as  granite, 
Or  as  soft  as  southern  forests 

(179) 


l80  ALASKANA. 

Draped  with  vines  and  trailing-  mosses ; 
Traversed  o'er  by  glancing  rivers, 
Pierced  by  bays,  and  inlets  curving 
In  and  out  where  shores  are  shallow, 
Winding  grass  and  sea-weed  streamers 
Into  wreaths  of  green  and  yellow, 
Garlands  rare  to  grace  the  forehead 
Of  a  fair,  but  changeful,  goddess. — 
So  Alaska  fleams  and  flashes 
Underneath  a  shining  net- work. 
Smiling  where  the  sun  is  brightest, 
Frowning  darkly  in  the  canons 
Where  no  sound  has  ever  wakened 
But  the  cascade's  tinkling  echo. 
Not  content  with  all  the  waters, 
From  the  ocean  tide,  salt  laden, 
To  the  limpid  stream,  inviting 
To  a  draught,  so  pure,  so  sparkling 
That  the  traveller  ne'er  forcrets  it 
Wheresoe'er  his  feet  may  wander, — 
Bricrht  Alaska  breaks  asunder 
Here  and  there,  across  the  surface, 


HOT    SPRINGS    OF    ALASKA.  l8l 

And  iiprears  a  column,  seething^ 
With  tlie  heat  her  heart-throbs  kindle  ! 
Throws  great  streams  of  water,  boiling 
As  it  bounds  toward  the  cloud-lands — ■ 
Hissing,  roaring,  sending  volumes 
Of  the  steam  her  fires  engender 
Out  toward  the  suntide  glory  ; 
Up,  beyond  the  mists  arising 
From  the  breasts  of  bay  and  river, 
Catching  rainbow  tints  and  Vi/eaving 
Webs  of  pale,  transparent  gauzes. 
Throwing  robes  of  gray  and  silver 
Over  trees  the  heat  has  blighted, 
Coaxinof  into  life  the  blossoms 
Which  her  careless  haste  has  faded. 
Until  plants  and  bushes,  nurtured 
By  the  warmth  and  moisture  scattered 
With  profuse  and  endless  patience 
That  atones  for  rash  surprises, 
Bud  and  bloom  in  rich  profusion, 
Mingling  with  the  steaming  odcrs 
Perfume  sweet  as  south-winds  carry 


1 82  AT.ASKANA. 

From  the  fields  of  thyme  and  heather. 

Fadeless  green,  the  grasses  wander 

Everywhere  their  roots  can  fasten. 

Shrubs  spread  forth  their  threads  of  emerald, 

Topped  with   blooms  of  white  as  spotless 

As  the  snow  that  dare  not  venture 

In  these  vales  of  tropic  verdure.* 

Firs  Q-row  straii^ht  and  tall,  their  branches 

Fringed  with  mossy  vines  and  climbers 

Merging  all  their  shades  of  greenness 

With  the  leaves,  which  bear  the  life-blood 

To  the  sturdy  hearts,  which,  swelling, 

Burst  the  bark  and  bid  the  trunk-girths 

Year  by  year  grow  fuller,  rounder, 

Till  those  hidden  vales  boast  monarchs 

In  the  realms  of  spring  and  geyser  ! 

On  the  bays  the  springs  have  heated 

With  their  streams  of  steaming  water, 

Ducks  and  geese    in   numbers  swarming, 

Float  and  dive,  or  sail,  majestic 

As  the  king  of  birds,  the  eagle. 

Sails  along  the  trackless  ether. 

See  note  in  Appendix. 


HOT    SPRINGS    OF    ALASKA.  I  8 

Here  the  prowling  bear  treads  softly 
Toward  the  dark-eyed  stag,  whose  antlers 
Break  the  stems  of  tufted  alder 
And  unearth  the  tender  vine-roots 
In  the  graceful  creature's  pathway. 
Grouse  upraise  their  crests  as  proudly 
As  thouofh  numbers  stood  enchanted 
With  their  saucy,  freeborn  manners ; 
And  they  drum  their  notes  of  warning 
Just  to  hear  the  cadence  echo 
From  the  hills  and  o'er  the  ripples 
Of  the  sheltered  bays  and  valleys. 
Song-birds  fly  from  bough  to  hillock 
Gladsome  songs  of  joy  uplifting. 
While  their  nestlings  sleep  securely. 
With  no  fear  of  careless  hunter 
Or  of  serpent  fangs  and  glances. 
Through  the  vales  of  dream-like  beauty 
Healing  streams  invite  the  siwash 
To  engulf  his  limbs  and  body. 
Bathe  his  flesh  till  pain  is  conquered 
And  he  starts,  refreshed  and  glowing 


o 


184  ALASKANA. 

With  the  warmth  and  health  outpouring' 
From  those  thermal  springs  and  fountains. 
Streams  that  bear  a  freight  of  sulphur, 
Sing  along  the  pebbly  byways, 
Where  the  native  takes  his  ailments 
And  beneath  the  waters  plunging, 
Soon  returns  to  land,  so  altered 
That  a  friend  might  pause  to  question 
If  tliat  yellow,  cleanly  stranger 
Were  the  same  whose  skin  was  darkened 
To  a  coppery,  dingy  shading ! 
So  those  geysers,  hissing,  fuming. 
Bounding  up  and  boldly  mingling 
Steaming  spray  with  flying  cloud-mists, 
Bear  among  their  seething  waters 
Rarest  dyes  for  hill  and  valley, 
And  for  man  both  health  and  beauty! 


CLUBBING  THE  SEA-OTTER. 


T  ONG  and  loud  the  tempest  rages! 

Shrilly  scream  the  winds  while  whipping 
Into  foam  the  crested  breakers, 
Which,  with  furious  wrath  uprising, 
Dash  and  plunge  along  the  coast  line, 
Fume  and  lash  the  rocks  and  cliff-sides, 
Till  the  flecks  of  foam  are  scattered 
Far  and  wide  across  the  borders — 
Far  beyond  the  line  which  measures 
Where  the  land  and  water  limits 
Should  be  held  without  encroachment. 
But  the  waves  in   reckless  fury 
Rear  and  fling  their  clasping  fingers 
Where  the  faithful  rocks  are  cloven — - 

(i8S) 


1 86  ALASKANA. 

Where  the  land  is  left  unguarded — 
And  they  seize  the  sand  and  pebbles — 
Tear  the  moistened  earth  in  ridges — 
Bearing  out  to  sea  the  trophies 
Which  they  grasp  and  hold  securely ! 
But,  as  though  they  half  relented 
When  the  earth  so  meekly  yielded, 
As  they  pass,  they  sweep  the  margin 
Smooth  and  clear  till  glistening  shadows 
Bear  no  marks  to  tell  the  outrao^e 
Of  the  lawless  waves  and  breakers. 
Blust'ring,  plunging,  still  they  answer 
As  the  winds  repeat  the  challenge, 
And  the  din  o^rows  wild  and  frantic 
While  the  earth  looks  on  and  trembles 
When  the  winds  and  waters  meeting 
Shriek  like  angry  beasts  in  battle, 
Or,  like  thunder,  roar  and  rumble ! 
When  the  sea  lifts  proudly  skyward 
Fearlessly  to  meet  the  foeman. 
Who,  although  so  boldly  warring. 
Never  once  displays  his  features. 


CLUBBING    THE    SEA-OTTER.  1 87 

When  the  war  is  wildly  rampant, 
And  the  winds,  in  rude  tornadoes. 
Sweep  the  isles  from  coast  to  seaboard ; 
When  the  blending  sounds,  redoubled, 
Detonate  from  crag  to  cliff-top, — 
Then  the  hardy  Aleut  hunters 
Launch  their  strong  and  tough  bidarkas. 
Seize  their  oars  and  skim  like  swallows 
Through  the  rough,  foam -whitened  surges, — 
Row  for  miles  through  rudest  turmoil 
Toward  the  isles  where  otters  frequent, 
When  the  sea  has  harshly  tossed  them 
From  the  rafts  of  kelp  and  mosses. 
When  the  winds  have  made  them  weary 
With  their  rough,  spasmodic  charges  ; 
On  the  rock-bound  coasts  they  gather. 
There  to  rest  and  sleep  unconscious 
Of  the  fate  so  fast  approaching 
In  the  boats  that  bound  like  bubbles 
O'er  the  rude,  tempestuous  billows. 
Dangers  face  the  bold  marauders. 
As  they  near  the  place  of  landing. 


I  88  ALASKAN  A. 

In  the  wind  so  hoarsely  puffing, 

In  the  sea's  eno^ulfing- currents. 

But  they  lash  their  boats  and  leave  them 

Far  beyond  the  surf's  rude  clasping, 

And  with  clubs  in  hand  they  hasten 

Stealthily,  but  swiftly,  onward 

Till  they  near  the  otters,  sleeping 

On  the  rocks  or  sandy  beaches, 

And  uplifting  high  their  weapons, 

Waiting  till  the  winds  cry  loudly, 

Crash  !  the  club  is  quickly  wielded 

And  an  otter's  skull  is  broken 

With  each  stroke  so  deft  and  certain. 

On  they  pass,  from  rock  to  hollow, 

Dealing  death  with  earnest  purpose, 

For  their  fortune  lies  invested 

In  those  glossy  coats  that  shimmer 

As  the  pulsing  life  ebbs  surely 

From  the  shy,  unwitting  victims. 

When  the  winds  rest,  then  the  Aleuts 

Stand  as  still  as  rocks  and  boulders 

Lest  their  steps  should  wake  the  creatures 


CLUBBING    THE    SEA-OTTER.  1 89 

Who  would  rush  beyond  their  reaching ; 

And  they  keep  their  stand  to  windward, 

Though  each  breath  may  dash  them  over 

Where  no  hand  could  reach  and  succor. 

But  they  fear  the  swift  detection 

Of  their  presence  would  be  aided 

If  the  otters  once  should  scent  them, 

If  the  wind  but  swept  their  garments 

Ere  it  reached  the  resting-places. 

When  the  din  is  wildest,  loudest, 

When  the  bounding  waves  are  roaring 

And  the  winds  have  joined  the  voices 

In  the  fierce  and  fiendish  chorus. 

Then  they  work,  though  tossed  and  beaten, — 

Though  their  nerves  are  held  in  tension 

That  would  snap  if  one  more  effort 

Led  them  out  beyond  their  bearing  ! 

Though  their  hearts  are  wildly  beating 

And  their  breath  comes  short  and  painful, 

Still  they  work,  till  daylight  finds  them 

Or  till  nature,  weak,  exhausted. 

Bids  them  stop  and  count  their  harvest. 


1 90  ALASKANA, 

Otters  lie  around  uninjured, 

Only  where  the  skulls  are  shattered, 

So  their  skins  are  valued  highly 

As  no  stain  nor  break  has  marred  them 

In  their  richly  shining  beauty. 

Now  the  Aleuts  count  their  victims. 

Fill  their  boats  and  place  their  surplus 

Where  the  sea-god  cannot  claim  them, 

Till  they  come  with  help  to  carry 

All  the  prizes  safely  homeward. 

Now  the  boats,  so  richly  laden. 

Slide  across  the  slippery  shingle, 

And  they  take  their  oars  and  turn  them 

Toward  the  island  home,  so  distant 

That  they  scarce  could  see  the  coast-marks 

Though  the  sun  were  shining  clearly. 

Through  the  mists,  the  raging  billows, — 

Through  the  clouds  the  winds  have  tattered. 

Till  their  ragged  edges  hanging 

Blend  with  foam  the  sea  is  churning ; — 

Throutrh  the  siofhinor  winds  whose  voices, 

Dirge-like,  break   above  their  foreheads — 


CLUBBING    THE    SEA-OTTER.  I9I 

Through  the  sea,  whose  gaping  trenches 

Toss  the  boats  and  strain  their  oar-locks^ — 

On  they  go,  like  sea-gulls,  dipping 

Either  side  their  bending  paddles. 

Riding  where  the  rollers  lift  them 

Up  toward  the  frowning  cloud-banks, 

Plunging  down  the  glassy  roadways 

That  a  mountain  wave  has  opened, — 

Sometimes  'neath  the  foam-caps  buried, 

But,  with  mighty  arms  propelling 

And  with  hearts  to  brave  each  danger, 

On  they  glide  toward  the  harbor ! 

Graceful  as  a  bird  they  hurry, 

Till  their  homes  and  friends  awaiting 

Greet  them  with  a  gleam  of  welcome, 

Praise  the  brave  y ou  ng  hu n  tsmen's  prowess,  — 

Land  their  boats  and  count  the  beauties 

That  the  brave  bidarka  carries 

Safe  and  sound  through  flood  and  tempest! 


MORSE  AND  MAHLEMOOT. 


I N  the  north  where  Bering's  waters 

With  their  restless  waves  and  surges 
Wash  the  Islands  bare  and  rock-bound, 
Lave  the  isles  whose  shores  are  ever 
Changing,  where  one  swell  deposits 
Broken  shells  and  oozy  sea-weeds, 
Dark-hued  earth  and  rocks  that  crumble 
When  the  winds  and  sunlight  touch  them, 
While  some  angry  breakers  roaring, 
High  upon  the  coast,  leap  backward, 
Bearing  in  their  clasp  huge  fragments 
Torn  away  in  reckless  passion! 
So  those  isles  erow  o-reat  and  lesser 
At  the  will  of  wind  and  water, 
(192) 


MORSE    AND    MAHLEMOOT.  1 93 

And  their  features,  ever  chanofincr 

Offer  not  one  safe  inducement 

To  the  tribe,  however  savaofe, 

To  the  huntsman  nor  the  fisher, 

E'en  to  Mahlemoots,  most  hardy 

Of  Alaska's  dark-browed  natives, 

For  a  home  while  winter  rages 

Or  while  summer's  sun  shines  warmly. 

But  these  isles  and  those  around  them, 

Great  and  small,  are  more  important 

Than  the  loveliest  grass-grown  islet 

That  a  poet's  dream  could  fancy. 

For  along  their  rough-hewn  shore-lines, 

On  their  wild  and  shell-strewn  beaches. 

Rests  the  Eskimo's  deliverer 

From  starvation's  painful  terrors. 

So  upon  a  safer  island. 

Deep  within  Poonook's  rough  bosom, 

They  have  built  their  winter  houses — 

Dug  them  deep  for  warmth  and  safety. 

Made  them  as  their  knowledge  dictates. 

Strong,  secure  and  free  from  danger. 

'3 


194  ALASKAN  A. 

They  liave  built  their  liall,  or  Kashga, 

Where  the  men  all  meet  at  evening:, 

There  to  talk  of  signs  that  promise 

Herds  of  fat  and  tender  morses, 

Or  with  anxious  voices  murniur 

Of  the  time  of  want  that  threatens 

When  the  weather  signs  betoken 

Poor  and  few  the  walrus  catches. 

When  the  summer  comes  propitious, 

When  the  winds  and  water  favor, 

Then  great  herds  of  morses  gather, 

Drag  their  great  unwieldy  bodies 

Out  beyond  the  sea's  embraces. 

Up  on  rocky  slopes  and  shallows. 

Up  on  sandy  bars  and  shingles 

Prone  they  lie,  so  closely  crowded 

That  one  leans  upon  another 

As  they  snore  in  restful  slumber. 

If  some  threatening  sound  disturbs  them 

Lazily  one  lifts  his  shoulder 

And  with  rolling  eyeballs  gazes 

Far  and  near  for  fear  of  danger ; 


MORSE    AND    MAHLEMOOT.  J 95 

But  a  moment's  watch  suffices 

If  he  finds  no  lurking  savasfe. 

But  to  make  secure  their  safety, 

To  insure  against  surprises, 

Ere  he  sinks  again  in  stupor 

With  his  tusks  he  prods  his  neig^hbor, 

Who  in  turn  repeats  the  watching, 

Prods  the  next  and  grunts  and  settles 

To  a  long,  dream-free  siesta. 

But  should  beast  or  man  be  near  them, 

Then  dismay  spreads  fast  among  them, 

And  they  roll  and  turn  and  tumble, 

Grunt  and  groan  and  toss  each  other 

In  their  haste  to  flee  from  danger 

And  to  hide  beneath  the  waters. 

There  they  lose  their  graceless  motions 

And  with  ease  fly  swiftly  outward 

From  the  shore  and  man's  encroachment. 

But  the  hunters,  wise  and  wary, 

Steal  with  noiseless  footsteps  near  them, — 

Careful  still  to  keep  to  windward 

Of  the  cumbrous,  watchful  quarry. 


196  ALASKANA. 

Armed  with  spears  and  jointed  lances, 
Whose  sharp  points,  when  once  inserted 
In  the  strugghng  morse's  vitals, 
Loose  away  from  hilt  or  handle, 
But,  secured  by  cords,  hold  strongly. 
That  the  beast  may  not  go  farther 
Than  the  length  of  thong  allows  it. 
There  they  let  him  plunge  and  tremble, 
Let  him  turn  and  twist  and  flounder 
Till  his  weakness  wakes  their  courage, 
And  strong,  willing  hands  join,  eager 
To  secure  the  pondrous  store-house. 
Soon  as  life  has  fled  they  hurry 
To  remove  the  hide  and  open 
To  the  loncrino-  view  the  blubber 
And  the  reekingf  flesh  whose  odor 
Makes  the  hungry  eyes  beam  brighter 
And  the  sturdy  arm  grow  stronger ! 
Carefully  the  hide  is  carried 
To  the  "  sweating-hole,"  that  makes  it 
Pliable  and  soft  to  handle. 
It  is  scraped  and  cut  and  fastened, 


MORSE    AND    MAHLEMOOT.  1 97 

Stretched  and  fastened  strongly,  firmly, 
For  their  odd,  secure  bidarkas 
Owe  their  strength  and  darting  lightness 
To  the  gaunt,  ungainly  walrus. 
And  the  sinews  all  are  gathered, 
And  the  shreds  of  hide,  the  flippers, 
All  the  bones,  the  tusks,  whose  ivory 
Tempts  the  traders'  yearly  visit. 
E'en  the  huge,  disgorged  intestines,^ — - 
Every  part  is  garnered  wisely. 
And  the  flesh !   its  every  portion 
With  no  crumb  of  waste  is  cherished, 
For  the  Innuit's  life  is  nurtured 
By  the  great,  disgusting  monster ! 
To  our  eyes  the  brute  is  hideous 
In  his  slow,  ungainly  movements. 
In  his  huge,  unshapely  body, 
In  his  skin,  all  warts  and  pimples. 
In  his  tusks  that  gleam  so  fiercely, 
In  his  eyes  that  roll  and  wander 
Here  and  there  in  search  of  danger. 
While  his  head  remains  as  quiet 


198  ALASKANA. 

As  though  rest  were  all  his  object ! 
And,  to  us,  his  flesh  is  teeminor 
With  a  strong,  offensive  odor, 
While  the  taste  is  all-sufficient 
To  destroy  the  strongest  longing 
For  a  dish  of  Innuit  dainties  ! 
Yet  no  traveller  o'er  the  desert 
Ever  greets  a  spring  more  gladly, — 
No  poor,  starving  wretch  looks  forwarel 
To  a  plenteous  meal  with  longing 
More  intense,  more  wild  and  eaofer 
Than  the  Mahlemoot  looks  forward 
To  the  morse's  yearly  coming. 
With  him  comes  his  boat,  his  weapons  ; 
With  him  comes,  in  part,  his  clothing, 
And  he  brings  the  light  that  brightens 
Those  dark,  subterranean  dwellings. 
More  than  all,  the  food  he  bears  them 
Makes  his  coming  far  more  blessed 
Than  all  else  the  sea  could  bring  them. 
As  the  palm  to  India's  natives. 
As  the  cocoa-palm  and  guava, — 


MORSE    AND    MATILEMOOT.  199 

As  the  broad,  inviting;  banyan 
To  tho  footsore,  thirsty  traveller, 
As  the  spring- to  winter-weary, 
As  the  o-leam  of  s^old  to  misers, 
So  the  fat,  unwieldy  walrus 
Holds  its  place  to  longing-  Innuits, 
To  the  Mahlemoots— Alaska's 
Dark-eyed,  earnest  walrus-hunters 


THE  SEAL  OR  PRIRYLOV  ISLANDS. 


TN  the  vast,  tumultuous  waters 

Of  the  sea,  the  restless  Bering — 
Far  from  rock-bound  coast,  from  mauiland, 
Out  where  no  high  mountain  ranges 
Stand  between  the  wind's  fierce  raging 
And  the  bare,  defenceless  headland, 
And  the  storm-washed  hills  and  shallows, 
Hold  their  own,  the  wild  Seal  Islands — 
Pribylov — their  name  conjointly  ; 
But  for  each  a  saint  is  sponsor, 
Or  an  animal,  whose  presence 
Made  the  island  famed  by  hunters. 
By  the  men  whose  needs  first  led  them 
To  reofard  the  stranore,  dumb  creatures 

(200) 


THE    SEAL    OR    PRIISYLOV    ISLANDS.  20I 

As  a  boon  by  seasons  carried 

To  their  reach  from  out  the  sea-depths. 

Thus  they  stand,  "St.  Paul"  and  "Wahais," 

With  "St.  George"  and  one  called  "  Otter," 

Neither  great  in  size  nor  number — 

Distant,  weird  and  strangely  lonely. 

Yet  withal  for  ages  holding 

On  their  sea- washed  shores  the  bearers 

Of  a  wealth  that  nations  covet, — 

Of  the  food  and  household  comforts 

That  have  saved  the  dusky  natives 

From  starvation's  painful  terrors, 

From  the  blasts  which  winter's  revels 

Throw  around  them,  all  regardless 

If  some  lives  should  pay  the  forfeit 

For  their  bold  and  fierce  carousals  ! 

"Walrus  Isle,"  a  ledge  so  rocky 

That  no  herbage  feeds  upon  it. 

Makes  a  resting-place  for  morses 

And  a  home  for  screamino-  sea-fowls, 

Who  return  each  year  and  find  it 

Swept  and  cleaned  by  wind  and  waters, 


202  ALASKANA. 

All  prepared  for  future  nestlings, 
Whose  vast  numbers  would  be  greater, 
But  that  human  kind  grown  greedy 
For  a  chance  from  morse  and  seal-meat, 
Steal  within  their  chosen  precincts 
And  with  ruthless  hands  filch  numbers 
Of  the  eggs  that  soon  would  quicken 
Into  awkward,  gaping  sea-gulls, 
Into  restless,  croaking  arries. 
Into  auks  or  tiny  parrots. 
Thus  the  isle  one  season  shelters 
Breeding  sea-fowl  by  the  million, 
And  another  o-ives  the  walrus 
Room  to  rest  and  sleep  in  comfort. 
"Otter  Island,"  bold  and  barren. 
Holds  aloft  its  silent  crater, 
Grimly  scarred  as  though  but  lately 
Fire  and  stones  and  molten  lava 
Burst  from  out  the  deep  recesses. 
Though  no  man  has  e'er  beheld  it 
Auofht  but  black  and  cold  and  silent. 
Once  the  otters  swarmed  upon  it, 


THE    SEAL    OR    PRIRYLOV    ISLANDS.  203 

But  to-day  the  sea-birds  clamor 

Round  the  frowning  bluffs  and  hollows, 

While  a  myriad  small  blue  foxes 

Haunt  Its  rock-hewn  gloomy  caverns. 

On  its  coast  a  few  seals  linger 

For  awhile  to  rest,  and  maybe 

To  recruit  their  failing  spirits 

Ere  they  join  the  countless  thousands 

Who  surround  the  larger  islands. 

There  "St.  George"  stands  bold  and  rock-bound, 

High  his  wind-swept  bluffs  uplifting 

While  the  sea  beats  all  around  him, 

Only  finding  one  small  entrance 

For  its  waves  to  rush  unbroken — 

Only  one  small  stretch  of  sand-beach 

Over  which  to  wash  and  tumble 

Ere  returning  swiftly,  laden 

With  small  rifts  of  sand  and  sea-weed 

That  were  cast  by  older  breakers 

Who  had  torn  them  as  they  travelled 

From  some  rock,  whose  submerged  surface 

Gave  their  lone  and  slender  fibres 


204  ALASKANA. 

Strong-  support  against  the  wave-sweeps, 
Till  one  stronger,  more  determined, 
Wrenched  the  quivering,  waving  streamers 
From  the  parent  stems,  and  threw  them — ■ 
Careless  of  the  fate  awaiting — 
On  the  island's  sandy  shingle. 
On  the  cliffs  the  wild  birds  gather, 
Reproducing  countless  numbers; 
Foxes  roam  and  cats  make  music. 
Whose  loud  chords  arouse  the  people. 
Who,  half  frenzied,  hunt  and  kill  them, 
Hoping  only  by  such  treatment 
To  gain  rest  and  peaceful  slumber. 
On  the  sandy  beach  the  fur-seals 
Haul  their  rounded,  glistening  bodies, 
There  to  rest  and  bear  their  young  ones, 
There  to  spend  the  time  of  breeding 
And,  alas,  to  lose  vast  numbers 
Of  tlieir  young  and  handsome  members. 
Here  and  there  this  rocky  island 
Bears  upon  its  breast  bright  patches. 
Waving  plumes  of  slender  grasses, 


THE    SEAL    OR    PRIRYLOV    ISLANDS.  205 

Blooming"  herbs  and  tender  mosses 
Spread  around  as  if  to  cover 
And  to  hide  the  ground  that  opened 
To  receive  the  streaminof  hfe-blood 
Of  the  calm  seal-hunter's  victims. 
From  one  bare,  tall  cliff,  at  springtime, 
Falls  a  cascade  pure  as  crystal — 
Plunging  from  the  wild- rock  surface 
Out  beyond  the  island's  shore-line, 
Deep  within  the  blue  sea-water; 
On  it  flows  in  limpid  fairness, 
Feathery  light,  and  pure  and  lovely 
As  its  spray,  its  silvery  ripples 
And  its  deeper  tide  streams  onward 
Down  against  the  dark  rock  faces. 
On  toward  Its  leap  for  freedom. 
How  its  waters  ffleam  and  ehsten  ! 
How  the  foam,  like  fairy  footsteps, 
Touches  here  and  there  the  crrlmness 
Ere  it  falls  to  lose  forever 
All  Its  own  bright,  frost-like  beauty 
In  the  waves  that  rise  to  meet  It — 


206  ALASKANA. 

In  the  thunderiiiL^  waves  that  Bering- 
Sends  to  greet  the  lovely  stranger  ! 
On  "  St,  Paul,"  the  larger  island 
And  the  one  regarded  always 
As  the  chief  among  the  seal-group, 
Lakes  and  small  lagoons  are  nestled 
Up  among  the  rocky  headlands, 
Held  in  deep,  uneven  basins, 
Far  above  the  great,  fierce  billows 
That  with  jealous  rage  forever 
Shout  and  cry  against  the  bulwarks 
That  protect  the  clear,  fresh  waters 
From  the  lapping  sea's  encroachment. 
Tiny,  silver  fish  sport  gayly 
In  the  brightly  sparkling  lakelets, 
Birds  and  beasts  flock  on  their  margins, 
Share  and  share  alike  with  people 
To  partake  of  pure  refreshment 
From  the  sweet  and  limpid  water. 
Grasses  wave  and  blossoms  scatter 
Tinted  petals,  as  the  wind-breaths 
Sweep  along  the  flats  that  gave  them 


THE  SEAL  OR  PRIBYLOV  ISLANDS.     20/ 

Room  to  grow  and  flaunt  their  beauty. 
Birds  surround  the  hills  and  cliff  points, 
Sparrows  flock  in  countless  thousands, 
And  the  hungry  hunters  catch  them 
Eager  for  the  savory  morsels 
That  produce  a  change  so  dainty 
From  the  endless  round  of  seal-meat, 
Stale  and  rank,  or  fresh  and  greasy  ! 
Here  the  sandy  dunes  are  tinted 
Dark  as  slate  with  shades  of  purple. 
Touched  with  flecks  of  red  and  yellow, 
Shading  off  to  paler  tinges 
As  the  sand  is  dried  and  drifted. 
On  this  island's  shores  the  fur-seal 
Crowd  in  vast  and  countless  numbers, 
Male  and  female,  grand  old  sultans 
With  their  full  and  lively  harems, 
Fat  young  bachelors,  whose  numbers 
Swell  the  hunter's  hope  of  profit — 
Mother  seals  with  pups  as  frisky 
As  a  crowd  of  playful  kittens, — 
Old  and  young  and  gray  and  lively, 


208  ALASKAN  A. 

Rich  in  fur  or  old  and  useless, 
Crowdincr,  roarino-   ficrhtino-   fondlinof,— 
Left  in  safe  and  clear  possession 
Of  the  hauling  grounds  and  harems, 
Or  the  droves  of  young  ones  singled 
For  the  yearly  wholesale  slaughter. 
On  "  St,  Pauls,"  the  larger  island, 
And  "  St.  Georofe,"  the  next  in  station, 
People  live  in  homelike  comfort. 
Having  houses,  stores  and  churches. 
Owning  much  to  make  their  living 
Far  above  the  older  natives. 
On  each  island's  loftiest  summits 
Stands  a  cross— the  Christian  emblem 
That  the  Russians  always  planted 
When  their  band  had  found  a  landing, 
Whether  on  a  lonely  island 
Or  a  grand  and  lovely  country. 
Yet  the  waves  forever  thunder 
On  these  distant,  wild  sea-islands  ! 
And  the  winds  forever  murmur 
Round  the  rocks  and  in  the  caverns, 


THE    SEAL   OR    PRIBYLOV    ISLANDS.  209 

And  the  winter  storms  howl  fiercely, 
Sweeping-  all  before  their  fury, 
And  the  summer  foes  hanir  o'er  them, 
Like  a  misty  pall,  forever 
Shuttinor  out  the  o-olden  radiance 
Of  the  sun's  resplendent  beauty. 


H 


THE  SEALS  OF  ALASKA, 


OUSSIA'S  ice-bound  coast  looms  coldly 
^       O'er  the  North  Pacific  waters, 
Over  Bering's  waves  that  clamor 
Where  the  land  resists  their  forces — 
Where  it  holds  its  rock-bound  border 
Firmly  strong  against  the  forging 
Of  the  bold,  ambitious  wave-sweeps 
That  forever  aim  to  blot  it 
From  the  coldly  barren  country, 
From  Siberia's  ice-locked  province  ! 
Down  they  flow  along  the  shore-way 
Of  Japan  and  soul-dim  China, 
Curving  round  the  mystic  islands, 
Where  the  cold  north  waves  are  tempered 
(210) 


THE    SEALS    OF    ALASKA.  211 

By  the  softly  sweeping  current — 
By  the  sun-warmed  stream  that  travels 
From  the  golden  shores  of  Asia — 
Wandering  through  the  chill-waved  ocean, 
Till  they  reach  far-off  Alaska — 
Bearing  east  to  that  lone  country 
And  its  islands,  darkly  fog-dimmed, 
Waves  that  pulse  like  tender  heart-throbs, — 
Like  a  faint,  electric  message 
From  Mongolia's  dusky  natives. 
To  their  dark  Alaskan  compeers. 
Through  the  miles  of  trackless  water 
Boominor  on  Columbia's  shore-line, — 
Thundering  on  the  coast  of  Asia ;  — 
Stretching  from  one  sphere's  bold  margin 
Toward  another's  eastern  outline — 
Wander  seals  in  myriads,  sporting 
Where  the  ocean  caves  are  silent. 
Where  no  echo  voice  can  startle 
With  its  weird  and  shadowy  music — 
Where  no  form  of  man  can  friofhten — 
But  where  peaceful  quiet  reigning 


212  AI.ASKANA. 

Wakes  no  fear  to  mar  tlieir  pleasure. 
Where  they  find  their  homes  in  winter — 
Where  they  spend  the  early  spring-time — 
None  can  tell,  but  wise  conjecture 
Finds  them  wandering-  o'er  the  ocean, 
Scattered  through  the  miles  that  measure 
Vacant  space  from  sullen  empires 
To  the  glad  Republic's  domain, 
Glorying  in  untrammelled  freedom, 
Gamboling  in  the  liquid  desert, 
Findine  food  in  rich  abundance, 
Deep  within  their  watery  store-house — 
Or  asleep  in  Nature's  cradle, 
Rocked  and  soothed  by  tidal  motion. 
But  when  spring  has  come  they  gather 
In  a  host  that  counts  by  millions — 
And  with  one  consent  press  onward 
Toward  the  lonely,  mist-crowned  islands 
In  the  sea  between  Alaska 
And  Kamchatka's  barren  landmarks. 
On  they  come,  those  countless  thousands, 
Scrambling  up  the  slippery  highway. 


THE    SEALS    OF    ALASKA.  213 

Hauling  up  their  o;-listenin2;-  bodies 
With  a  strange,  uncertain  motion 
Painful  to  behold,  and  seeminf{ 
Wearisome  to  all  ;   yet  upward 
Still  they  come,  by  Nature  guided 
To  that  CTreat  retreat,  where  ao^es 
Tell  of  just  such  teeming  millions. — 
Roaring,  bleating,  groaning,  snoring — 
Old  and  young  in  odd  confusion 
Cause  a  din  like  distant  thunder, 
Rolling  down  o'er  hills  and  valleys — 
Make  a  sound  like  deep-toned  waters 
Rushing  through  resisting  canons — 
Or  like  miofhtiest  wind-storms,  swelling 
With  a  world's  sad  weight  of  sorrow! 
Out  to  sea  that  noise  is  carried, 
Weird  and  fearful  in  its  cadence  ; 
But  to  those  who  wait  their  coming, — 
To  the  hearts  of  watching  Aleuts, 
Every  tone  is  tilled  with  music ; 
No  more  welcome  guest  has  ever 
Landed  on  those  sea-o-irt  islands  ! 


214  ALASKANA. 

Grand  old  patriarchs,  uplifting 
High  above  the  rest  their  shoulders, 
Guard  with  care  their  swarming  harems  ; 
Graceful  heads  are  raised  to  listen 
Or  to  view  a  curious  stranger  ; 
But  no  angry  sounds  are  uttered, 
Or  not  one  aggressive  motion 
Made  against  his  close  inspection  ; — 
But  if  one  great  seal  should  ever 
Try  to  seize  another's  consort, 
Then  a  most  terrific  battle 
Wages  wild  and  fierce,  till  either 
Falls  and  lies  in  great  exhaustion, 
Yields  in  death  his  angry  passion, 
Or  retreats  most  humbly  conquered. 
In  a  space  so  small  one  wonders 
How  they  live  so  closely  crowded — 
Old  and  young  lie  close  together — 
One  perhaps  is  calmly  resting 
On  its  kind  companion's  body, 
Or  it  may  be  one  is  trembling 
With  the  weight  of  such  a  number 


THE    SEALS    OF    ALASKA.  2  I  5 

That  it  seems  its  life  must  forfeit 
That  the  rest  may  sleep  in  comfort. 
As  they  sleep  they  sigh  and  quiver — 
Start  as  if  a  dream  affrighted — 
Groan  as  if  some  hideous  nightmare 
Held  them  with  its  vice-like  terrors : — 
And  they  fan  their  fin-like  flippers 
With  an  odd,  spasmodic  movement. 
Never  still,  the  restless  thousands 
Swarm  like  bees,  and  sound  while  sleeping 
Like  the  buzz  of  wings,  increasing 
To  a  million  times  their  uproar. 
On  the  earth  they  seem  ungainly. 
In  the  waves  their  every  motion, 
Turned  with  ease,  is  strangely  charming ; 
Diving,  curving,  darting,  bounding, 
Birds  in  air  are  not  more  graceful, 
Not  more  free  and  gayly  joyful 
Than  the  fur-seals  of  Alaska. 
Months  they  stay  among  those  islands, 
In  whose  dim  mist-light  they  revel, 
Makine  all  the  earth  a-tremor 


2  I  6  ALASKANA. 

With  their  active  sound  and  motion, 
Then  they  leave  ;  the  isles,  forsaken. 
Look  more  wildly  cold  and  lonely 
Than  before  they  came  to  wake  them 
From  their  long"  and  wintry  quiet. 
And  they  !     Who  can  tell  their  eerie  ? 
Who  can  tell  the  groal  that  shelters 
All  those  graceful,  fur-dressed  thousands. 
All  those  soft-eyed,  sea-rocked  millions  ? 


NA-ASS  RIVER. 


]V  TEAR  Alaska's  southern  boundary, 

Flows  a  river  called  the  "  Na-ass," 
By  the  Indians  named  "New  River;" 
And  they  tell  their  reason  fully 
While  they  point  with  earnest  gestures- 
Show,  without  a  doubt,  the  proof-marks 
Of  their  legend — of  the  story 
Of  the  river  and  the  ashes. 
Heaps  of  dust  and  stony  objects 
Which  are  strewn  beside  its  margins. 
Thus  they  tell  the  painful  legend  : 
Years  ago  some  wicked  children 
Played  beside  a  sparkling  streamlet, 
Paddled  in  its  limpid  waters, 
(217) 


2t8  alaskana. 

Tossed  its  crystal  drops  around  them  ; 

Frip-hteninor  with  their  shouts  the  fishes — 

Silver  fishes,  bright  as  moonlight — 

Which,  with  quivering  fins  were  darting 

Here  and  there  in  sportive  pleasure,      * 

Or  in  search  of  food,  were  peering 

In  and  out  among  the  hollows 

Where  the  slippery  stones  were  lying — 

Sometimes  touching,   sometimes  leaning 

Far  away  each  from  the  other. 

Soon  those  noisy,  dark-faced  children 

Of  their  gentle  sport  grew  weary. 

And,  with  heartless  mischief  teeming. 

By  the  wicked  spirit  goaded, 

Some,  witli  movement  quick  as  flashes. 

Seized  the  leaping,  swimming  salmon. 

Caught  and  held  the  trembling  fishes. 

Held  them  tight  and  cut  them  deeply. 

Scored  their  backs  with  gaping  knife-wounds, 

And  then  crushing  stones  within  them, — 

Sharp  and  grinding  stones  imbedding 

In  their  wounded  backs,  they  loosed  them, ' 


NA-ASS    RIVER.  219 

Lauofhinor  at  the  tortured  creatures 

As  they  plunged  and  writhed  and  twisted,- — 

As  they  tried  to  swim  but  could  not 

For  those  gaping  wounds  that  severed 

From  the  flesh  the  gauzy  fin-lines 

That  before  had  waved  so  smoothly — 

Curved  and  waved  with  every  motion — 

While  the  fishes,  diving,  swimming, 

In  their  home  were  adding  beauty 

With  their  grace  to  rippling  waters 

And  the  sunlight's  gay  reflections. 

So  the  children  played  and  added, 

Now  and  then,  another  victim 

To  their  heartless,  cruel  pleasure  ; 

While  the  great,  good  Spirit  watched  them. 

Saw  the  sport  that  caused  their  laughter 

And  beheld  the  silent  torture 

Of  those  salmon  while  they  suffered, — 

Watched  the  gaping  mouths  and  eye-balls 

Starting  out,  impelled  by  efforts 

To  regain  their  wonted  motion, 

To  escape  their  painful  burden  ! 

Long  the  Spirit  watched  and  waited. 


2  20  ALASKAN  A. 


All  the  while  his  aneer  rising. 


But  the  youthful  tyrants  gloried 
In  the  pain  their  fun  was  causing, 
And  they  touched  their  dying  victims, — 
Urged  them  on  with  sticks  and  branches 
Till  they  turned  and,  floating  lifeless, 
Hid  their  backs,  so  torn  and  tortured. 
In  the  stream  that  gently  bore  them 
Far  away  to  reach  the  ocean  ! 
Long  the  Spirit  watched  and  waited, 
But  the  cruel  sport  continued. 
Till  his  wrath  grew  hot  and  vengeful ! 
Then  he  caused  a  fire  to  kindle — 
Sent  a  fire,  so  fierce  and  mighty 
That  it  seized  the  dancing  waters, 
Lapped  the  waves  with  heat  consuming, 
Caught  those  children  in  its  fury 
And  with  roarinof  voices,  buried 
All  their  bitter  cries  and  shriekine — 
All  their  calls  for  help  were  deadened ! 
And  the  Spirit  saw  their  writhings. 
As  they  saw  their  wriggling  victims — 
Looked  upon  them  till  their  ashes 


NA-ASS    RIVER.  22  1 

And  the  river's  dust  were  mingled — 
Until  nauorht  remained  to  answer 
When  the  people  came  to  find  them 
But  the  seethinof  stones  and  ashes, 
But  the  smokinof  dust  remainino^ 
Of  those  cruel,  heartless  children 
And  the  river,  which  their  playing 
Doomed  to  swift  and  fierce  destruction, 
Until  naught  was  left  to  witness 
Of  its  pure,  transparent  beauty 
But  the  dust  and  stones  and  silence.* 
When  the  tributary  waters 
Saw  the  ruin  spread  before  them, 
Saw  the  lovely  stream  had  vanished 
And  its  funeral  pyre  had  smouldered, 
Wild  with  fear  they  sought  a  channel 
Clear  from  all  the  steaming  rubbish. 
But  so  near,  their  tinkling  murmurs 
Seem  to  singf  in  tones  of  warninof  — 
Sing  a  dirge,  in  softest  whispers. 
For  those  children  wild  and  wilful. 
And  their  blighted  sister  streamlet ! 

•■'■  See  note  in  Appendix. 


22  2  ALAS  KAN  A. 

So  the  Indians  tell  the  story 

Of  the  lava  bed  that  borders 

On  the  river  named  the  Na-ass — 

Of  the  strange  rough  bed,  resembling 

In  its  course  a  river's  roadway  ; 

While  they  see  in  piles  of  lava 

Remnants  weird  of  forms  cremated, — 

Shapes  of  bones,  and  pallid  ashes 

From  the  waters  burned  to  cinders 

By  the  fire  the  great  good  Spirit 

Sent  to  punish  deeds  so  cruel, 

And  to  warn  all  other  mortals 

From  the  fell  desire  to  trifle 

With  the  lives  so  free  from  vileness, — - 

With  the  fish,  whose  tender  bodies 

Rightly  used  are  full  of  virtue 

As  a  flesh-  and  oil-producing 

Article  for  home  consumption, 

Or  for  traffic  with  the  countries 

Whose  bright  streamlets  cannot  furnish 

Aught  so  rich  as  silvery  salmon 

Nurtured  in  the  pure,  deep  waters 

Of  the  Northland's  boundino-  rivers! 


FISHING  ON  NA-ASS  RIVER, 


/~^N   the  shores  of  Na-ass  river, 
^"^^    Where  the  broader  banks  allow  it 
To  display  its  liquid  beauty 
For  one  mile  and  half  another, 
There  the  small  fish  gather  yearly  ; 
Every  year  their  faithful  coming 
Brings  the  tribes  from  east  and  westward 
To  secure  for  food  the  fishes, — 
To  obtain  the  gleaming  tribute 
Which  the  river  bears  them,  truly 
As  the  season  calls  it  upward 
To  the  water's  restless  surface. 
When  the  time  is  near,  some  watchers 
Wait  the  fishes'  swift  advancement, 
(223^ 


22  4  ALASKAN  A. 

See  the  river's  bosom  quiver 

With  the  milHon  graceful  swimmers 

And  then  fly  and  call  the  natives 

To  the  bright,  abundant  harvest. 

Everywhere  is  eager  bustle 

As  the  tribes  from  either  country — 

From  Columbia's  British  shore-line 

And  the  isles  of  fair  Alaska^ — 

Deck  themselves  with  oil  and  blacking 

Touched  with  lines  of  gay  vermilion  ; 

Trim  their  heads  with  gaudy  feathers, 

And  bedrape  their  limbs  and  shoulders 

Bright  with  clothes  or  T'linket  blankets. 

Every  garment  bearing  emblems 

Of  the  wearer's  tribal  totem, 

Of  the  Hkenesses  of  creatures 

Wild  and  savao-e  in  their  nature. 

Songs  and  dances  tell  their  coming 

As  they  gather  by  the  water, 

Hundreds  upon  hundreds  meeting 

In  a  friendly,  joyous  manner 

Ere  they  launch  their  boats  and  utter 

Words  of  praise  to  charm  them  nearer. 


FISHING    ON    NA-ASS    RIVER.  225 

Flattering  songs  to  win  the  fishes; 

Worshipping  the  tiny  swimmers 

Who  appear  in  such  profusion 

That  with  branches,  armed  with  nail-points, 

They  can  fill  their  boats  so  quickly 

As  to  make  a  glinting  net-work 

Where  the  gay  canoes  pass  over, 

East  or  West,  as  they  deliver 

To  the  waiting  crowds  who  carry 

Basket-loads  of  quivering  beauties 

To  the  hands,  whose  constant  duty 

Is  to  turn  the  gleaming  fishes 

Into  oil  for  use  in  winter; 

Or,  to  those  who  cook  and  serve  them 

To  the  troops  of  hungry  mortals 

Who  behave  as  though  starvation 

Had  been  checked  just  at  the  moment 

When  its  terrors  pressed  them  sorely! 

Watch  the  scene!   the  river  teeming 

With  the  fishes,  small  and  dainty. 

With  canoes,  like  greedy  vultures 

Swarming  where  the  prey  is  plenty, 

15 


226  ALASKAN  A. 

And  with  men  whose  painted  bodies, 
Feathered  lieads  and  gHstening  paddles 
Dart  about  in  wild  confusion, 
Making  such  fantastic  pictures 
As  would  test  the  swiftest  pencil 
Of  the  most  ambitious  artist ! 
Overhead  the  gulls  are  poising 
Ere  they  drop  and  skim  the  water 
Where,  mayhap,  a  spot  is  vacant 
For  an  instant,  as  some  boatman 
Has  departed  with  his  burden. 
There  they  group,  a  myriad  wing-tips. 
Looking,  as  they  fly,  like  snow-flakes 
Ready  to  descend  and  cover 
All  the  scene  with  spotless  beauty ; 
And  above  them,  soaring  grandly — 
Scarce  a  motion  in  their  pinions- 
Eagles  scan  the  river's  bosom. 
From  whose  depths  they  hope  to  garner 
Food  for  hungry,  screaming  eaglets. 
Eaofles,  eulls  and  men,  all  vieing- 
With  each  other  for  possession 
Of  the  tiny,  timid  fishes, — 


FISHING    ON    NA-ASS    RIVER.  227 

Wait  above  the  tossing-  water, 
While  beneath  the  shining-  river 
Fin-back  whales  and  clumsy  codfish, 
Halibut  and  bounding  porpoise 
Jostle  each  against  the  other 
In  their  eager,  swift  pursuing 
Of  the  prey  which  tries  to  hasten 
From  the  hungry  jaws  distended 
To  enofulf  the  friofhtened  creatures! 
Up  they  dart,  when  man  impales  them, 
Tearing  cruelly  their  fibres, 
Crushing  out  their  little  life-span 
As  a  child  would  grasp  a  bubble, 
And,  reducing  them  to  masses, 
Ugly,  motionless  and  shapeless. 
In  the  sunlight  birds  affright  them 
And  they  plunge  beneath  the  surface. 
Where  the  laro-er  fish  await  them, 
And  they  dart  about,  uncertain, 
When  the  master,  man,  assigns  them 
To  himself  a  special  offering 
From  the  river-cfod  and  fish-trod — 
From  the  pfods  of  land  and  water. 


2  28  ALASKANA. 

On  the  shore  lonof  boats  are  laden 

With  the  fish  and  river  water 

And  with  stones,  which  first  are  heated 

Till  they  glare  with  angry  brightness — 

Hiss  and  sputter  when  they  tumble 

In  the  water,  which  they  heighten 

To  a  bubbling,  broiling  temper, 

When  it  cooks  the  fish  and  makes  them 

Yield  their  fat  in  liquid  amber. 

This  the  women  store  in  vessels 

And  preserve  with  carefijl  patience, 

Pressinor  with  their  feet  the  masses 

So  that  no  clear  drops  are  wasted. 

Other  fish  are  packed  by  women, 

Each  as  much  as  she  can  carry. 

Then  they  all  prepare  for  feasting. 

Dancing,  worshipping  the  fish-god, — 

Doing  homage  to  the  spirits 

That  they  feel  are  swarming  round  them, 

Throwing  gifts  in  wild  profusion 

That  no  witch  nor  fiend  of  evil 

May  have  cause  to  wreak  its  vengeance 

On  themselves  or  friends  or  children  ! 


PINNACLE  ISLET/'^ 


/^UT  at  sea  !   no  sound  to  answer, 
^^^  Thoueh  our  oruns  should  tell  of  danger, 
Though  our  captain's  voice  should  thunder 
Through  the  trumpet  loudly,  wildly, 
Thoucrh  the  briofht  ship-bell  should  tremble 
With  its  loudest,  longest  clangor, 
Though  each  human  voice  should  join  it 
With  the  saddest,  woful  calling! 
Out  at  sea  !  no  sound  to  answer 
But  the  sea's  loud,  tuneless  roaring, 
But  its  monotone,  as  changeless 
As  the  waves'  wild  sobs  and  moaning  ! 
Naueht  to  answer  but  the  sea-voice 
And  the  winds,  whose  heartless  laughter 

*  See  note  in  Appendix. 

(229) 


2 ^O  ALASKANA. 

Echoes  back  in  tones  as  jeering 

As  a  fiend's,  whose  joy  grows  wilder 

When  a  tortured  mortal  murmurs. 

Out  at  sea !    the  land  so  distant 

That  the  mists  obscure  it  darkly, 

And  the  cloud-banks  seem  less  vap'rous 

Than  the  lone,  sea-shadowed  islands ! 

Out  at  sea  !  our  ship  an  atom 

And  ourselves  weak  toys  for  Neptune 

If  the  sails  should  fall  disabled 

Or  a  leak  should  chance  to  open ! 

Dancing  w^aves  around  us  gambol — 

Sun-kissed  waves,  as  bright  as  jewels — 

Cloud-dimmed  waves,  like  shrouded  opals, 

Touch  our  ship,  then  leap  beyond  us, 

While  their  bright  companions  linger 

Close  beneath  our  sheltering  shadow. 

Green  and  cloud-like  blue  the  surface 

Turns  toward  the  sunlit  azure 

And  in  small,  bright  patches, glistens 

With  the  eolden  orb's  reflection. 

Far  away  white  flecks  gleam  softly, 


PINNACLE    ISLET.  23  I 

Clear  as  silver  newly  burnished, 
Or  like  snow-flakes,  lightly  resting 
On  the  rippling  waves  and  eddies. 
All  around  the  dim  horizon 
Hides  behind  a  misty  veiling 
That  sometimes  uplifts  and  wavers 
Like  a  thin  and  gauzy  curtain, 
Showing  far  beyond  more  water, 
More  cool  waves,  more  mist  and  shadow. 
Listen  !   not  a  sea-bird  whispers — 
Not  a  sound  but  waves  in  motion. 
And  the  slow,  dull  sounds  that  answer 
To  the  sails  when  winds  outlift  them. 
Look  !  beyond  the  sea  no  vision 
E'er  can  pierce  those  banks  of  vapor! 
Hush  !   and  gaze  far  out  beyond  us. 
Far  away  and  glancing  upward 
Beams  a  light,  a  flame,  a  beacon. 
From  the  sea's  cold  breast  it  rises. 
From  the  wild,  cool  tide  uprearing, 
See,  a  light  gleams  red  and  golden  ! 
Fish  lights  ?     No,  no  fish  scales  ever 


232  ALASKANA. 

Shone  with  sucli  uneven  splendor  ! 
And  no  fair  auroral  beauty 
Ere  confined  ilself  so  closely 
As  this  brightly  gleaming  stranger. 
On  we  sail,  still  nearer,  nearer, 
And  the  light  beams  out  more  brightly 
And  then  dies  away  as  quickly 
As  the  lightning's  fervid  flashing. 
Is  it  lightning?     No  fierce  pealing 
Calls  it  forth  in  thunderous  voices. 
No  black  clouds  with  angry  frowning 
Tell  of  storms  and  seething  tempest. 
Now,  behold  a  rock  uplifted, 
Sheer  from  out  the  sea  it  rises 
Full  a  thousand  feet  or  over, 
From  the  sea-line  to  the  fissure. 
That  one  moment  yawns  as  darkly 
As  the  earth's  most  gloomy  caverns, 
And  the  next  is  olowinor  fiercer 
Than  Verstova's  fervid  flashing ! 
Dark  and  high  the  rock  stands  sentry 
Over  Bering's  troubled  bosom, 


PINNACLE    ISLET.  233 

And  its  inin lite-gun  booms  loudly 
As  it  sends  its  fiery  message 
Up  toward  the  gloomy  cloudland — 
Out  to  islands  near  and  distant — 
Far  across  the  sea's  dark  ripples 
And  its  crested  waves  and  billows. 
Flash  and  boom  !   the  sound  repeating 
Wanders  on  till  lost  in  distance 
And  the  lurid  stream  rears  upward 
Like  a  fierce  and  curbless  charger, 
Just  a  moment's  time,  then  sinking 
Slowly,  sullenly,  but  surely, 
Fades  away,  except  the  lava 
That  awhile  retains  the  heat-cflow, 
And  the  stones  that  shine  like  eye-balls 
On  the  rugged  sides  and  fissures. 
Then,  when  all  are  pale  as  ashes, 
Boom  !  aorain  the  sea-Qfun  belches 
And  repeats  the  glow  and  glory 
And  the  slow  but  painless  dying. 
Is  there  hand  to  paint  the  beauty 
Of  that  lonely,  fire-crowned  islet? 


234  ALASKANA. 

Is  there  voice  to  tell  how  wildly 
Gleams  that  weird,  majestic  stranger 
Who  has  none  to  claim  his  kinship 
In  those  cold  Alaskan  waters  ? 
O'er  the  sobbing-  seas,  the  islands 
And  the  rocks,  whose  bold  desires 
Bid  them  ape  the  forms  and  features 
Of  their  nobler  island  neighbors, 
Towers  the  splendid  fiery  mountain. 
Lofty  and  alone  ;   no  echo 
Wakens  when  his  voice  calls  loudly 
And  no  answering  flash  makes  answer 
Though  he  re-repeats  his  question. 
His  the  only  voice  to  scatter 
Waves  of  sound  on  Bering's  waters, 
His  the  only  light  to  waken 
Brightest  gleams  upon  his  bosom  ! 


THE  BIRTH  OF  BOGASLOV  ISLET. 


QUMMER'S  laughing  eyes  were  saddened 
^     By  the  first  cool  wave  of  autumn, 
Which  had  passed  among  her  jewels, 
Turning  brown  and  limp  the  petals 
That  her  watchful  care  had  tended, 
That  her  gende  hand  had  tinted 
With  a  brush  whose  slightest  touches 
Waked  the  bloom  on  phlox  and  gentian, 
Tinged  the  heart  of  stately  iris, 
Caught  the  tenderest  blue  and  laid  it 
On  the  drooping  violet's  bosom. 
Now  she  gazed  on  all  so  blighted 
That  their  grace  had  gone  forever ; 

(235) 


236  ALASKAN  A. 

So  she  drew  her  gauze-like  raiment 
And  departed,  as  the  echoes 
Of  the  autumn  winds  were  mocking 
At  the  grief  her  eyes  were  telHng, 
Though  her  Hps  no  sigh  had  uttered. 
Men  and  women  worked  in  concert, 
Making  stores  for  winter  usage, 
Curinof  berries,  flesh  and  blubber; 
Stretching  skins  for  beds  and  clothing  ; 
Hast'ning  to  repair  their  dwellings. 
That  the  snow,  in  fitful  skurries. 
Should  not  find  a  chink  to  enter; 
When  a  loud  report  re-echoed 
From  the  hills  and  mountain  summits! 
Boominof  o'er  the  wild  sea-water 
In  a  lone,  vibratincr  cadence. — 
Ere  it  passed  away  another 
Crashing,  thunderino-  roar  succeeded  ! 
In  its  strengrth  the  islands  trembled. 
Oomnak  shook,  and  Oonalashka 
Felt  the  shock  from  verge  to  centre. 
Silence  fell !     The  quaking  islands 


THE    BIRTH    OF    BOGASLOV    ISLET.  237 

Grew  as  still  as  babes  in  slumber, 
And  the  startled  natives  wond'rinir 
What  should  cause  the  stranu-e  commotion, 
Paused  awhile,  then  finding  danger 
Followed  not  the  frightful  rumble, 
Turned  again  to  work,  but  questioned 
Now  and  then  the  older  people. 
Ere  the  wisest  sacje  amongf  them 
Could  have  formed  a  safe  conclusion, 
Wild  and  loud  there  burst  above  them 
Sounds  that  mocked  a  cannon's  roaring  ! 
Tones  like  hoarse  artillery  voices 
Clashing  forth  when  foes  contending 
Meet  and  hurl  their  fiercest  charges  ! 
Lonor  vibrations  rose  and  echoed 
Like  the  battle-cry  of  muskets  ! 
Notes,  like  pealing  claps  of  thunder. 
Shook  the  isles,  from  crested  mountains 
Down  to  where  their  feet  are  resting 
Deep  within  the  sea's  dark  cradle  ! 
While  the  waves  of  Bering  bounded 
Far  beyond  their  constant  limit, — 


238  ALASKANA. 


Surged  and  dashed  in  maddest  breakers 
Round  die  helpless,  quaking  islands. 
People  cower'd  in  nerveless  terror, 
Knowing  not  how  soon  the  ocean 
Would  engulf  their  homes,  or  wash  them 
From  their  once  secure  foundations. 
Clouds  of  smoke  obscured  the  sunlight, 
Rolling  here  and  there  so  dimly 
That  't  would  seem  the  earth  had  risen, 
Hurling  clouds  toward  the  sun's  face ! 
Showers  of  dust  and  ashes  scattered 
Over  all  the  land,  and  blinded 
Those  who  looked  with  wondering  crazes 
Toward  the  flying  clouds,  and  listened 
To  the  constant,  angry  growling 
That  for  days  and  nights  still  muttered 
Like  a  foul  and  threatening  monster. 
And  the  people  waited,  breathless, 
Fearing  instant  death,  or  dreading 
Something  that  was  strange  and  awful, 
Coming  where  they  least  expected. 
Days  and  nights  the  rumblings  reached  them, 


THE    BIRTH    OF    BOGASLOV    ISLET.  239 

And  the  dust  and  ashes  covered, 
Like  a  veil,  the  trembling  islands. 
Then  the  earth  grew  still  and  silent, 
And  the  dusky  shades  uplifting, 
Soon  revealed  a  blaze  that  issued 
From  old  Bering's  tossing  waters, 
Castino-  loner,  wide  streams  of  brio-htness 
Far  across  his  dark  green  bosom  ; 
Liftinof  rolls  of  Q-a.s  and  ashes 
Which  the  winds,  both  wild  and  eager, 
Caught  and  carried  far  to  southward, 
Sifting  as  they  flew,  their  burden 
O'er  the  quivering  isles  and  people. 
Soon  the  braver  men  concluded 
They  would  know  what  strange  creation 
Had  produced  this  wild  confusion 
And  the  fires  that  blazed  so  fiercely  ; 
So,  their  light  bidarkas  launching, 
Carefully  they  neared  the  stranger, 
Which  they  found  to  be  an  islet, 
Or  a  new  volcanic  structure 
Which  the  earth  had  forced  to  notice 


240  ALASKANA. 

Though  the  sea  had  barred  its  passage. 
' Twas  tlie  earth  in  mig-hty  travail 
That  had  made  the  islands  tremble  ; 
And  Boofaslov's  birth  was  noted 
In  the  thunderous  peals  and  crashes  !* 
While  his  crest  of  fire  was  lifting, 
Waters  seethed  and  tossed  in  torture, 
Till  he  rose  above  the  surface 
And  proclaimed  his  advent  brightly. 
There  the  Aleuts  gazed  in  wonder, 
But  they  dared  not  near  the  islet, 
For  its  sides  were  bathed  in  lava, 
Streaming  down  in  liquid  blazes 
From  the  summit  to  the  wave-line 
That,  with  angry  hisses,  seized  them, 
Turning  glaring  light  to  dimness, 
Liquid  fire  to  stones  and  ashes. 
So  they  left  the  infant  islet 
And  returned  to  tell  the  wonder 
Which  the  throbbing  earth  had  nourished, 
Which  she  charged  the  sea  to  cherish. 

*  See  note  in  Appendix. 


THE    BIRTH    OF    BOGASLOV    ISLET.  24 1 

Still  the  mound  of  rocks  grew  taller 
And  extended  o'er  the  sea-waves 
Till  it  gained  a  height  and  boundVy 
Large  enough  to  name  Bogaslov — 
One  of  Berinof's  thousand  islets. 
After  years  the  fires  grew  dimmer, 
Then  they  turned  to  smouldering  cinders, 
But  their  fierceness  left  it  lonely. — 
Neither  man  nor  beast  could  linger, 
For  the  fervid  heat  would  direaten 
To  destroy  whoever  landed. 
But  the  cooling  waves  have  washed  it 
Till  at  last  the  great  sea-lions 
Sport  along  its  rugged  edges, 
And  the  water-birds  have  found  it 
Safe  retreat  to  rear  their  nestlings. 
Gulls  and  sreese  and  darino;  'Arries 
Make  their  homes  within  the  ridfres 
Where  sometimes  the  lava  torrents 
Poured  in  streams  of  ruby  brightness. 
On  the  topmost  points  the  eagles 
Gaze  beyond  the  tossing  billows 

16 


242  ALASKANA, 

O'er  the  islands,  shoals,  and  islets, 

That  bedeck  the  sea's  wild  bosom. 

While  Pacific's  glistening  rollers 

Lap  around  a  myriad  islands 

Who,  one  day,  were  born  with  thunder 

As  their  cradle-song,  and  blazes 

Were  their  birthday's  first  announcement ! 


INDIAN  LEGEND  OF  THE  LARGE 
GLACIER  ON  STICKEEN  RIVER. 


I 


N  a  mig-hty  mountain  fastness 
Dwelt  a  eod  who  ruled  the  regions 


Where  the  snow  and  ice  and  hail-storms, 
Where  the  sleet,  that  cuts  like  needles. 
And  the  howling,  shrieking  north-wind 
Bide  their  time  while  summer  linorers — 
Wait,  with  hard  and  chill  impatience. 
For  his  word  to  give  them  empire 
Over  all  the  smiling  landscape, 
Over  blooming  field  and  meadows, — 
Power  to  change  their  tender  herbage 
Into  pale  and  silent  shadows. 
And  to  stay  the  sparkling  ripples 

(243) 


244  ALASKANA. 

Of  each  limpid  stream  and  river 
Till  their  waves  grow  still,  as  dying- 
Quells  the  life-blood  in  man's  bosom. 
So  he  gave  command,  and,  wailing, 
Fled  the  sweet,  soft  winds  of  summer. 
And  from  north  and  east  the  ice-ofod 
Sent  his  breath  in  howling  echoes. 
Shrieking  out,  like  angry  demons. 
As  from  crag  to  crag  they  bounded ; 
Crying  out  like  spirit  voices 
Through  the  narrow  mountain  gorges, 
And  in  sad,  complaining  whispers 
Sighing  through  the  stricken  valleys. 
Over  all,  the  snow  fell,  shrouding 
Summer's  glory  with  its  pallor, 
Covering  with  a  pall,  so  spotless 
And  so  fair,  earth's  verdant  beauty 
That  'twould  seem  he  half  repented 
Of  the  sternness  of  his  mandate — 
But  he  sped  his  crystal  lances 
Into  stream  and  mountain  torrent. 
And  the  rippling,  dancing  waters 


LARGE    GLACIER    ON    STICKEEN    RIVER.        245 

Froze  with  terror  at  his  frowninof, 

While  the  babbhnof  brook's  low  murmurs 

Made  woods  lonely  with  their  absence, 

And  the  rivers  roared  and  battled 

As  they  struggled  through  the  channels, 

Growinof  closer  and  more  narrow, 

Till  the  flaes^ingf  waves  orrew  silent. 

Yielding  tribute  to  his  kingdom 

In  their  cold  and  calm  surrender. 

But  old  Stickeen  knew  no  orders 

But  his  own,  and  it  was  "  Onward  !  " 

And  he  rushed  and  roared  and  bounded 

On  the  course  he  held  for  acres — 

Springing  from  the  cold  embraces 

Of  the  ice-king's  creeping  minions, 

LauQfhinor  at  the  north-wind's  screaminor 

As  it  tried  to  drown  his  singing. 

And  to  pearly  softness  kissing 

Snow-flakes  dropped  upon  his  bosom. 

And  the  despot  heard  the  cadence. 

As  it  bounded  through  the  canons — 

Heard  the  singino-  notes  of  freedom 


246  ALASKANA. 

That  made  yielding  nature  quiver 
With  a  faint,  rebellious  trembling 
Ere  she  turned  to  stone-like  homage 
Of  the  eod  whose  breath  could  alter, 
At  his  will,  her  every  feature. 
And  the  anarch  bent  and  listened, 
With  surprise  beyond  conception, 
To  the  song  Stickeen  was  shouting, 
To  his  bold,  defiant  tauntinor — 
And  he  wondered,  for  he  knew  not 
Whose  the  voice  and  whose  the  spirit 
That  could  so  defy  his  province, 
When  all  else  was  awed  to  stillness  ! 
Listening  on,  his  outraged  kingship 
Could  no  longer  brook  defiance ! 
He  must  know  what  haughty  rebel 
Dared  to  hold  its  own  so  boldly. 
So  he  buckled  on  his  armor. 
Called  his  chill,  obedient  vassals. 
And  set  forth  to  see  and  vanquish — 
Marched  abroad  to  set  his  signet 
On  that  hardy,  traitor  minstrel 


LARGE    GLACIER    ON    STICKEEN    RIVER.        247 

Who  dared  break  his  awful  silence  ! 
Forth  he  crashed,  die  mountains  shaking 
With  his  footsteps'  heavy  falling, 
Gorges  ringing  with  the  clangor 
Of  his  crystal  shields  and  lances, 
And  his  armament  for  storming 
Citadel  or  castle  strongholds 
Well  might  bring  the  most  defiant 
To  his  feet  in  blind  submission  ! 
On  he  sped,  a  hero  chieftain. 
Noting  not  how  stark  and  hoary, 
Seeing  not  how  cold  and  lifeless 
Nature's  works  had  bowed  before  him. 
For  he  heard  that  river  chantinor 
Its  clear  war-song  as  it  bounded, 
And  he  longed  to  hush  forever — 
Longed  to  still  the  sweet  vibrations 
Of  its  thousand  rippling  voices. 
On  he  came,  his  shadow  bending 
O'er  bold  Stickeen's  rugged  margin. 
And  he  frowned  upon  the  wavelets 
As  they  danced  beneath  his  glances. 


248  ALASKANA. 

Throwinir  back  his  <jreat  reflection 
In  a  myriad  bright  contortions, 
Turning  grim,  commanding  gestures 
To  absurd  and  stranQ-e  orrimaces. 
Then  his  fury  knew  no  Hmit 
And  he  threw  his  giant  framework 
Sheer  across  the  bounding  waters* 
Hoping  thus  to  chill  their  Hfe-flow, 
Certain  of  his  strength  to  cover, 
With  his  cloak  of  icy  texture, 
Every  vestige  of  the  rebel — 
Of  the  brilliant,  dashinor  traitor! 
When  the  people  saw  the  monster 
Span  their  brave,  life-giving  river. 
Saw  him  crash  upon  its  surface 
All  his  weight  of  icy  grandeur, — 
Then  their  hearts  grew  sore  within  them 
And  starvation  stared  before  them 
In  its  fearful,  painful  grimness. 
But  they  listened,  and  the  river 
Whispered  to  them  from  its  prison, — 

*  See  note  in  Appendix. 


LARGE    GLACIER    ON    STICKEEN    RIVER.        249 

P)ade  them  ask  the  fearful  ice  king 
What  great  hostage  he  demanded. 
And  he  smiled  in  chill  derision, 
As  he  asked  them  for  a  maiden 
And  a  chieftain,  young  and  noble, 
Who  would  sacrifice  their  bodies, 
Who  would  bid  farewell  to  all  things 
And  would  float  upon  the  waters 
As  they  flowed  beneath  his  bulwarks. 
Crushing  close  upon  their  bosoms. 
And  the  maidens  drew  back  frightened. 
All  but  one,  whose  low  voice  murmured 
That  her  willing  heart  was  ready 
Thus  to  die  to  save  her  people. 
And  a  chieftain  bravely  answered, 
"  I  will  join  with  her  in  giving 
All  that  life  and  youth  have  granted 
That  my  people  may  not  suffer." 
So  they  brought  a  boat  and  decked  it 
For  that  sacrificial  voyage, 
And  they  bound  the  man  and  maiden — 
Firm,  but  tenderly,  they  bound  them  ; 


250  ALASKAN  A. 

Then  their  death-song  rose  and  lingered 

In  the  air  that  bore  it  onward, 

In  the  hearts  of  those  that  launched  them 

On  that  non-returning  voyage  ! 

And  they  floated  down  the  river — 

Down  the  broad  and  noble  Stickeen — 

Till  they  reached  the  fatal  archway 

Of  the  tyrant's  cruel  planting, 

And  they  bowed  their  heads  submissive, 

But  the  river  held  them  closely, — 

Safe  upon  his  breast  he  bore  them, 

While  the  snow  but  touched  their  foreheads 

And  the  ice  refused  to  crush  them  ! 

Thus  they  cleared  a  gleaming  causeway 

That  made  boatmen  safe  forever. 

Safe  forever !  though  the  Glacier 

Spans  for  aye  the  friendly  river, 

For  its  brio-ht,  life-oivino-  waters. 

Rushing,  bounding,  wearying  never, 

Keep    that  crystal  archway  open  ! 


CHILKAT  LEGEND  OF  THE  RAVEN. 


/^NCE  a  great  and  powerful  raven 
^-^      Pondered  on  his  lone  condition 
As  he  gazed  around  in  chaos — 
On  the  cheerless,  vague  confusion 
That  held  naught  of  shape  or  beauty, — 
That  was  dark  and  wild  and  gloomful, 
Voiceless,  and  yet  strangely  soundful. 
Featureless,  yet  held  in  substance 
Particles,  that  fitted  wisely. 
Would  produce  a  change  most  wondrous  ; 
Drawine  forms  of  orraceful  contour 
Out  from  shapeless,  tumbled  masses! 
And  his  great,  dark  eyes  were  earnest 
As  he  shook  his  purple  vesture 

(351) 


252  ALASKANA. 

And  outspread  his  strong,  black  pinions 

Ere  he  issued  forth  to  ^rather — 

Ventured  out  to  join  and  fit  them — 

Those  grim  piles  devoid  of  structure, 

Those  unformed  and  graceless  atoms, 

Into  one  great  work  whose  splendor 

Should  befit  its  kingly  author  ! 

When  he  spread  his  wings  their  blackness 

But  intensified  the  shadow 

That  hung  pall-like  o'er  the  turmoil 

That  he  willed  should  grow  and  ripen 

Under  his  most  wise  creation  ! 

Into  some  great  form  should  ripen, 

That  the  very  stars  should  own  it 

As  a  peer  in  their  great  system  ! 

Then  he  carried  stones  and  heaped  them 

Close  upon  the  water's  margin — 

Piled  them  hiorh  and  firm  to  meet  it — 

That  black  water,  lawless  rushing, 

And  to  force  it  Into  compass, 

Stay  it  till  it  ceased  submerging. 

In  its  endless  flow  and  ebbing. 


CHILKAT    LEGEND    OF    THE    RAVEN.  253 

All  the  pliant  earthy  matter — 

All  the  rocks  and  stones  and  boulders 

That  were  drawn  within  the  wave-tide, 

Tossed,  and  rolled,  and  ground  together. 

Ever  changing  through  its  action, 

Never  from  the  strife  arising 

Without  seams  and  scars  in  witness 

How  the  cruel,  restless,  waters 

Strove  to  crush  them  out  of  being. 

Here  and  there  his  plan  succeeded, 

And  the  sturdy  pile  resisted, 

Thoueh  the  waters  lashed  and  thundered. 

Roared  like  wrathful  beasts  an  hungered, 

And  upheaved  their  frowning  billows, 

Hurling  them  in  reckless  fury 

High  against  the  rocky  ramparts 

Only  to  be  churned,  and  foaming, 

Thrown  upon  their  wild  companions, 

Who,  uprearing,  aimed  to  deluge 

And  complete  the  hopeless  ruin  ! 

Rut  sometimes  the  cunning  raven 

Left  an  inlet  for  the  ocean 


254  ALASKANA. 

Here,  to  form  fair  bays  and  inlets, 
There,  to  stretch  an  arm-like  river, 
Or  a  channel  deep  and  narrow  ; 
And  again,  to  grace  his  fabrics, 
Sent  bright  streams,  like  silver  liquid, 
Rippling  forth  sweet,  tinkling  praises 
or  his  work,  so  fair  and  wondrous! 
Thus  he  beautified  the  structure 
And  secured  for  it  the  life-flood 
Without  which  his  bright  creation 
Soon  would  fall  to  dusty  rubbish. 
Then  he  spread  broad,  level  spaces 
O'er  with  earth  and  stone,  that  crumbled 
At  his  touch,  to  softest  bedding 
For  the  trees  and  plants  and  mosses, — 
For  the  shrubs  and  creeping  vine-life 
That  awoke  to  see  and  furnish 
Garniture  of  many  tintings 
For  the  raven's  lovely  dwelling  ; 
And  he  formed  low,  rolling  hillocks, 
Overtopped  with  velvet  grasses, — 
There,  a  charming  vale  indented, 


CHILKAT    LEGEND    OF   THE    RAVEN.  255 

Held  rich  grain  in  bending  tassels; 
Here,  a  towering  mountain  summit 
Kept  aloof  a  snowy  fountain 
That  supplied,  in  tiny  trickles, 
Moisture  for  the  thirsty  meadow 
That  outspread  beyond  his  foothold, 
ReachincT  toward  another  mountain, 
Whose  grey,  rugged  sides  betokened 
That  a  fiery  heart  once  bounded 
Underneath  his  stony  vestments  ! 
How  the  raven  croaked  and  chattered 
As  great  monsters  from  the  sea-depths 
Crawled  about  his  rocky  coastline 
To  inspect  his  undertaking  ! 
Beasts  and  birds  alike  were  anxious 
To  behold  so  strange  an  object ; 
And  they  found  it  so  to  suit  them. 
In  their  many  wants  and  longings, 
That  they  choose  to  stay  there  always 
And  take  homes  among  the  pleasures 
That  the  raven,  all  unconscious, 
Had  supplied  to  cheer  their  coming. 


256  ALASKAXA. 

When  man  came  he  gazed  about  him, 

Counting-  all  for  his  belonging, 

Seizing  and  to  his  own  uses 

Calling  all  of  earth  and  ocean  ! 

Then  the  bird,  with  pride  o'erflowing, 

Viewed  the  work  so  full  and  perfect ; 

And  in  fear  that  some  fell  monster 

Should  destroy  his  grand  construction, 

On  his  outspread  wings  he  raised  it, — 

Raised  and  held  it  there  supported ! 

And  he  still  upholds  it  safely, 

Glorying  in  the  noble  burden 

That  his  will  may  cause  to  prosper 

Or  to  fall  in  baseless  ruin 

At  the  drooping  of  his  pinions ! 

But  the  great,  black  bird  holds  prestige 

Over  every  strain  of  mischief. 

And  if  angered  he  can  summon 

Forms  of  evil  so  terrific 

That  poor,  trembling  hearts  grow  timid 

At  the  mention  of  his  prowess, — 

With  the  terror  of  his  vengeance ! 


CHILKAT  LEGEND  OF  THE  RAVEN.     257 

Ravens  flap  their  inky  feathers 
Where  they  choose,  and  unmolested 
Croak  their  doleful  notes  while  waitincr 
For  some  ebbing  life's  last  quiver, 
Till  they  gorge  their  noisome  bodies 
With  the  fast-decaying  tissues 
Of  some  wretch,  who  fell  a  victim — 
Sacrificed  to  win  forgiveness 
For  some  insult  to  their  monarch. 
Each  blackbird  has  open  passport,* 
Free  where'er  he  wills  to  wander. 
And  no  hand  must  dare  to  check  him 
Nor  molest  the  sacred  envoy. 
Sacred,  not  because  of  blessings. 
But  for  fear  that  never  slumbers 
Of  some  awful  doom  to  follow. 
If,  by  some  fell  fate,  a  raven 
Should  receive  without  intention, 
Even  from  an  infant  Chilkat, 
Harm  to  limb  or  beak  or  feather. 
Hurt  to  wing  or  fetid  body. 

*  See  note  in  Appendix. 
17 


258  ALASKAN  A. 

Every  day  the  dangers  threaten 
More  and  more,  because  protection 
Fast  supphes  increasing  numbers 
And  so  tames  the  doleful  army 
That  the  constant  care  depresses 
All  who  know  and  fear  the  breakage 
Of  the  law  that  guards  the  raven. 
When  one  dies  his  tainted  body 
Must  be  raised  with  reverend  action, 
Must  be  duly  staked  and  coffined, 
And  then  left  in  holy  silence 
To  perform  its  journey  outward 
To  some  other  favored  dwelling. 
Cleared  and  garnished  for  his  coming. 
Thus  those  poor,  soul-darkened  Chilkats 
Worship  with  faint  hearts,  fear  laden ; 
Live  from  day  to  day  but  asking 
Freedom  from  dread  forms  of  evil. 
Wading  through  old  superstitions, 
Thankful  if  each  day  but  gives  them 
All  their  savage  needs  have  call  for, 
And  protects  them  from  the  horrors 


CHILKAT  LEGEND  OF  THE  RAVEN.     259 

That  hang  o'er  them  fierce  and  threatening, 

While  their  all  is  resting  helpless 

On  a  raven's  outspread  pinions, 

That,  if  anger-flapped,  might  drop  them 

Into  darker  depths  of  blackness — 

Into  woes  beyond  conception  ! 


THE  OWL. 


TN  the  distant  town  of  Sitka 

Lived  a  man — a  youthful  T'Hnket — 
With  his  wife  and  aged  mother; 
With  his  wife,  both  young  and  comely, 
And  his  mother,  old  and  losing, 
With  her  youth,  her  power  of  vision — 
Growing  blind  and  weak  and  helpless. 
As  the  days  passed  on,  one  season, 
For  some  cause  the  fish  ran  slowly 
And  the  game  refused  to  wander 
Where  the  hunters,  watching  closely, 
Hoped  to  track  the  moose  and  reindeer- 
Tried  to  find  a  welcome  deer-path 
Or  a  moose-track  by  the  water  ; 
(260) 


THE    OWL.  261 

Looked  in  vain  for  stately  antlers, 

Even  longed  in  anxious  waiting 

For  the  friijhtened  start  and  whirrinor 

Of  some  wild  birds  in  the  sedges, 

Or  the  far-off  call  and  answer 

That  should  lead  them  to  the  shelter 

Of  the  ptarmigan  or  mallard. 

But,  alas!  all  food  was  scanty, 

And  It  daily  grew  more  hopeless, 

Till  the  T'linket  and  his  mother 

Kept  themselves  alive  with  berries 

And  the  roots  he  dug  and  carried 

To  his  home,  which  seemed  more  dreary. 

Day  by  day,  because  starvation. 

With  its  bitter,  pfnawintr  anguish. 

Made  the  eyes  grow  large  and  hollow. 

Touched  the  cheeks  with  ashy  pallor, 

And  his  mother's  drooping  figure 

Bent  more  sadly  as  she  folded, 

Close  and  tight,  the  slender  fingers 

Of  the  poor,  weak  hands  that  ever 

As  the  new  day  rose,  grew  thinner 


262  ALASKANA. 

And  more  claw-like  where  they  rested 

On  her  knees,  which  faintly  trembled 

As  the  life-blood  feebly  journeyed 

In  obedience  to  the  dictate 

Of  her  aching  heart's  pulsation. 

Every  day  the  young-  man  hunted, 

Every  morning  found  him  fishing, 

Or  in  quest  of  some  wild  creature 

That  would  serve  to  stay  the  hunger 

Of  his  mother,  weak  and  dying, 

Of  himself,  so  near  despairing. 

All  the  time  his  wife  was  cheerful. 

And  her  eyes  retained  their  lustre ; 

On  her  cheeks  the  rich  blood  painted 

Blooming  tints  of  health  and  beauty, 

And  her  step  \vas  light  and  bounding. 

While  her  rounded  fipfure  bore  not 

Tellinof  trace  of  fear  nor  famine. 

So  her  people  gazed  upon  her 

As  a  mortal  god-protected, 

And  they  watched  her,  strangely  awe-struck. 

That  she  throve  while  they  were  dying ! 


THE    OWL.  263 

Sometimes,  near  the  hour  of  midnight, 
From  her  weary  sleep  awakening, 
Would  that  starving  T'linket  mother 
Think  she  smelled  the  savory  essence 
Of  the  fish  she  craved  for  sadly; 
But  her  daughter  answered  sternly 
That  no  fish  was  near  the  dwelling 
And  no  fire  produced  the  odor. 
Then  she  shook  the  tremblinor  creature 
And  commanded  instant  silence. 
But  again  she  spoke,  more  eager, 

"You  have  fish,  I  smell  it  plainly. 
And  I  hear  the  oil  that  crackles 
In  the  fire  so  warmly  blazing." 
But  she  answered  still  more  harshly, 

"I  have  nothing,  hush  your  croaking, 
Go  to  sleep  and  dream  you're  eating 
Of  the  fish  you  smell  so  plainly." 
Then  she  slept,  again  she  wakened, 

"You  are  eating,  for  I  hear  you. 
Give  me  some  before  I  perish  ! " 
But  the  wicked  woman  answered, 


264  ALASKANA. 

"  I  am  just  as  you  are — hungry — 
I  am  chewing  gum  I  gathered 
Where  the  forest  trees  were  wounded." 
But,  one  night,  the  poor  old  woman, 
More  importunate  and  wakeful, 
Tried  the  daughter's  ebbing  patience. 
And  she  hissed,  "  Yes,  you  shall  have  some. 
Hold  your  hand  and  I  will  fill  it." 
And  she  tore  the  steaming  entrails 
From  a  fish  the  fire  was  broiling. 
Took  them  out  and   crushed  them  fiercely 
In  the  hand  upheld  to  take  them, 
Then  she  closed  the  feeble  fingers 
And  with  cruel  force  she  held  them 
Till  the  quivering  hand  was  blistered 
And  the  mother  almost  fainted 
With  the  pain,  and  with  the  pressure 
Of  the  heartless  disappointment. 
In  the  morn  the  soul-sick  T'linket 
Turned  his  weary  footsteps  homeward 
From  a  fruitless  night  of  hunting ! 
And  the  wife  beheld  his  cominij 


THE    OWL.  265 

With  her  eyes  downcast,  but  beaming, 

With  a  glance  at  once  defiant 

And  afraid  of  coming  anger. 

But  the  T'linket  listened  gravely 

To  his  sobbing  mother's  story  ; 

And  he  soothed  her  while  he  whispered 

Of  his  plans  for  gaining  knowledge 

Of  his  wife's  most  strange  behavior; — 

Bound  her  suffering  hand  and  promised 

To  unearth  the  woman's  storehouse, 

And  to  give  her  food  to  strengthen 

And  restore  her  sinkingf  nature. 

To  his  wife  he  made  no  mention 

Of  the  tale  his  mother  bore  him  ; 

So  she   thought  that  fear  had  hushed  her, 

Or  that,  maybe,  in  the  morning 

She  had  quite  forgot  the  burning 

And  had  blamed  her  injured  member 

On  some  cruel  spirit's  charming. 

But  her  husband  lingered  near  her. 

Though  he  feigned  to  make  a  journey; 

So  when  midniofht  came  he  watched  her 


266  ALASKAN  A. 

As  she  sought  the  sea-side  swiftly, 
As  she  neared  the  rocks  that  bordered 
On  the  sea  where  fishes  sported 
In  the  clear  and  dancino-  water. 
Then  she  cut  some  slender  branches 
And  she  waved  them  straight  before  her,- 
Waved  them  o'er  the  orlintine  water 
And  toward  the  rocky  shore-line, 
Till  the  herrings  paused,  and  turning, 
Yielded  to  her  witch-like  charming, 
From  their  native  water  bounded. 
And  upon  the  rocks  lay  panting — 
At  her  feet  they  flung  their  beauty, 
Shining  in  the  twinkling  starlight, 
Bright  as  silver,  newly  graven. 
Then  she  gathered  all  she  needed, 
Threw  the  rest  far  out  to  fatten, 
And  return,  when  called  to  cater 
To  her  ereed  so  bold  and  selfish. 
Still  he  watched  her  as  she  carried 
To  her  home  the  gleaming  herring ; 
Gazed  upon  her  while  she  cooked  them 


THE    OWL.  267 

In  the  fire  his  hands  had  kindled, — 
While  she  ate  the  savory  morsels 
And  he  heard  his  mother  praying 
For  one  fish  to  ease  her  hunger ! 
Yet  his  wife  refijsed  her — lying 
To  the  blind  and  helpless  mother 
Meanwhile,  wastinor  what  would  feed  her, 
What  would  ofive  her  strencrth  and  comfort ! 
So  he  waited  till  the  daylight, 
Then  came  home  as  if  returning 
From  another  night  of  waiting 
For  the  eame  that  would  not  hasten 
To  the  snares  that  gaped  to  seize  them  ; 
For  tlie  fish  that  slyly  darted 
Far  beyond  the  fisher's  spear-hook, 
Or  the  nets  that  waved  like  banners. 
As  the  waters  moved  them  lightly, 
Trammeled  not  by  cod  nor  grayling; 
But  he  brought  a  hair-seal,  bursting 
With  the  fat  that  steals  the  senses. 
That  when  eaten  causes  stupor 
To  enlock  the  brain  and  muscles. 


2  68  ALASKANA. 

So  he  caused  his  wife  to  eat  it, 
And,  despite  her  strong-  refusal. 
He  compelled  her  still  to  swallow 
Till  she  slept,  and  knew  no  waking 
Until  midnight  passed  and  daylight 
Found  her  listening  to  his  summons 
To  repair,  with  hasty  footsteps, 
To  his  boat,  which,  heavy  laden, 
Waited  for  her  swift  unloading. 
Loaded  down  with  silvery  herring 
His  canoe  she  found,  and  also 
Found  that  he  had  somewhere  stolen 
From   herself  the  art  she  practised. 
Then  she  dropped,  and  calling  faintly. 
Begged  him  send  the  fishing  baskets  ; 
But  he  would  not,  and  she,  stubborn, 
Would  not  go  herself  to  get  them. 
Then  she  sat  all  day  beside  them — 
The  canoe  and  glistening  herring — 
On  the  sand  she  sat  till  nightfall. 
Till  the  moon's  pale  beams  aroused  her, 
When  she  rose,  and  turned  to  wander 


THE    OWL.  269 

In  the  mountain  gulch  that  offered 
Safe  retreat  to  one  whose  feelings 
Were  so  wildly  touched,  and  warring 
With  each  other  in  her  bosom  ! 
But  she  wearied  in  the  pathway 
And  a  great  stone  stood  inviting, 
So  she  dropped  upon  it,  hoping 
To  regain  her  streng-th  and  hasten 
On  her  way  towards  the  mountains. 
As  she  sat  her  clothing  fluttered — 
Turned  to  soft  and  spotted  feathers — 
While  her  form  assumed  the  contour 
Of  a  bird  with  greedy  talons, 
And  her  head,  beyond  all  question. 
Told  that  she  who  once  was  human 
Had  become  an  owl,  whose  hooting 
Would  awake  the  midnight  echoes  ; 
Who  would  hide  away  in  sunlight. 
But  would  make  the  night-time  gloomy 
With  her  weird  and  sad  voice  calling 
When  all  nature  should  be  resting! 
And  the  waiting  husband  wondered 


270  ALASKANA 

Why  his  Klootchman  dared  to  tarry ! 
Then  he  went  to  find  the  truant, 
But  he  found  her  not,   nor  ever 
Saw  her  face,  nor  heard  her  answer, 
Though  he  called,  so  long  and  loudly, 
That  the  mountain  voices  orrumbled 
When  he  waked  their  sleeping  echoes  ! 
But  he  heard  an  owl's  weird  calling, 
And  he  saw  two  lights  that  glittered 
Fiercely,  hatefully,  upon  him 
Throuofh  the  midnieht's  orloomful  stillness 


YEHL 


ONCE,  before  the  world  was  lighted — 
While  it  still  in  darkness  lingered — 
Some  poor  wand'rers  tried  to  find  it, 
Sought  to  gain  a  place  to  rest  in — 
But  the  blackness  lowered  so  sternly 
That  they  failed  to  find  a  harbor, 
And  they  traveled,  groping  feebly 
For  the  earth  and  all  its  comforts. 
Which,  so  distant,  seemed  most  gracious. 
In  this  time  there  lived  a  T'linket 
With  his  sister  and  her  children, 
With  his  wife  he  loved  so  fondly 
That  no  work  should  soil  her  fingers. 
That  her  graceful  form  should  never 
(271) 


272  ALASKANA. 

Bend  beneath  a  woman's  burden. 
But  the  T'linket's  love  was  shaded 
With  a  jealous  taint  that  made  him 
Guard  his  wife  with  careful  watching. 
So  he  kept  a  close  surveillance, 
Kept  a  troop  of  kun,  of  red-birds — 
Eieht  briorht  red-birds  hovered  round  her, 
Ready  always  to  escort  her 
And  to  catch  the  slightest  pretext 
For  a  message  to  her  husband, 
Who,  when  absent,  seemed  expecting 
Some  dark  cloud  to  break  above  him — 
Some  black  cloud  to  burst  upon  him. 
Once  a  stranger  passed  the  doorway 
And  addressed  the  T'linket's Klootchman, 
And  she  answered,  fearing  nothing, 
For  her  heart  was  true  and  faithful. 
But  the  red-birds  flew  and  whispered 
In  the  husband's  ear  the  story  ; 
When  his  jealous  rage  so  kindled, 
That  he  made  a  box  to  hide  her 
From  the  eyes  of  all  creation  ! 


YEHL.  273 

Even  when  his  sister's  children 
Gazed  upon  his  wife,  his  idol, 
Wild  with  ire  he  fell  upon  them, 
Slew  them  all  and  left  his  sister 
With  a  spirit  sadly  broken, 
With  a  heart  so  sore  with  sorrow 
That  she  walked  beside  the  ocean — 
That  she  wandered  by  the  seashore, 
Weeping,  wailing  for  her  darlings, 
Till  the  very  fishes  sought  her 
And,  in  pity,  bade  her  tell  them 
Why  with  grief  her  heart  was  filling. 
Why  her  tears  were  shed  so  freely  ? 
So  she  told  the  fate  so  cruel. 
That  her  brother's  rage  had  brought  her, 
And  the  whale,  who  asked  the  questions. 
Filled  with  pity,  bade  her  swallow 
From  the  beach  a  stone,  and  with  it 
Drink  some  water  from  the  ocean. 
This  she  did,  and  days  passed,  gently 
Healing,  as  it  fled,  her  heart-wounds, 
Till  in  time  a  son  was  born  her. 
i8 


2  74  ALASKANA. 

One  britrht  son  she  bore  and  held  him 
To  her  heart  with  fondest  passion ! 
Then  she  hid  him  from  her  brother, 
From  his  hideous,  vengeful  temper. 
Yehl,  this  son  she  nearly  worshipped, 
Grew  in  strength  and  beauty  daily. 
Grew  in  man's  estate,  and  in  him 
Throbbed  a  heart  with  love  o'erflowing 
For  his  mother  and  her  people, 
Whom  he  saw  in  darkness  groping. 
Whom  he  watched,  and  strong  with  pity 
Swore  to  make  their  lives  more  wholesome, 
Vowed  to  make  a  happy  ending 
To  their  long  and  heart-sick  waiting. 
So  he  sought  the  chief  who  prisoned 
In  his  boxes  moon  and  starlight, — 
Who  enclosed  the  fair  light  given 
Under  boxes  strongly  guarded. 
So  that  none  should  see  their  brightness. 
Or  beneath  their  warmth  grow  cheerful. 
Yehl,  with  thoughtful  visage,  lingered 
Near  those  boxes,  tightly  fastened, 


YEHL.  275 

While  his  brain  with  plans  was  active 
Till  they  grew  to  fair  proportions, — 
Till  they  ripened  for  the  bidding 
Of  his  strong  right  hand  to  open 
And  dispel,  for  once  and  always, 
All  the  gloom  that  held  in  bondage 
Earth  and  sea  and  every  creature ! 
So  he  watched  his  time,  then  opened 
Hastily  but  sure  the  prisons; 
Let  the  stars  and  moon  ride  upward 
Till  they  gemmed  the  skies  awaiting, — 
Till  they  each  assumed  the  places 
Which  his  gentle  will  assigned  them. 
Tenderly  the  starlight  glimmered, 
While  the  moon  with  silver  tintings 
Rode  triumphant,  smiling  brightly 
O'er  the  features  nature  offered — 
O'er  the  mountains,  hills  and  valleys, 
And  the  rivers,  streams  and  ocean. 
Mankind,  meanwhile,  stunned  with  wonder, 
Scarcely  dared  to  own  the  blessing 
That  the  noble  Yehl    had  griven 


2/6  ALASKANA. 

To  repay  them  for  their  patience. 
Further  still  to  prove  his  honor, 
And  to  show  his  love  was  boundless, 
Forth  the  sun-god  issued  proudly! 
On  he  sped,  the  whole  earth  spanning, 
Shedding  everywhere  such  splendor 
That  the  eyes  of  all  were  dazzled  ! 
Some  so  startled  with  his  glory, 
Sped  with  fear  before  his  presence, 
And  within  the  waters  plunging 
Sought  to  hide  from  light  so  glaring ! 
Yehl,  in  mercy,  saw  their  terror 
And  the  fearful  danger  threatened, 
For  the  struggling  forms  were  sinking, 
Drowning,  in  the  rushing  waters  ; 
Then  he  spoke,  and  all  grew  calmer. 
And  he  touched  the  glistening  waters, 
When  the  people  sunk  within  them 
Turned  to  fishes,  great  or  smaller. 
Changed  to  golden  trout  or  salmon, 
Or  to  whales,  or  flying  dolphins ! 
And  they  swam  and  sported  gayly 


YEHL.  277 

While  the  sunHght  made  them  ghtter 

With  rare  scales  of  gold  and  silver 

By  the  waters  finely  burnished. 

Others,  fleeing  to  the  mountains, 

Lost  their  way  and  wandered  wildly, — 

Sought  but  could  not  find  the  footways 

That  would  lead  them  down  and  homeward ; 

So  to  graceful  deer  he  changed  them — 

Some  to  goats  and  deer  with  antlers — 

Others,  flying  straight  before  him, 

Turned  to  birds  of  glowing  plumage, — 

While  the  people  watched  his  actions, 

Saw  his  power  and  fell  before  him — 

Fell  to  worship  at  his  footstool ! 

But  he  longed  not  for  such  homage, 

So  he  waited  sometime  longer, 

Till  all  earth  was  calm  and  peaceful — 

Till  the  T'linkets  longed  for  nothing 

But  his  tender  hand  supplied  them. 

Then  he  sped  away  to  hide  him 

In  a  home  beyond  earth's  shadows, — 

In  his  home  so  bright,  so  radiant, 


278  ALASKAXA. 

There  he  dwells,  forever  oruarding 
With  most  g-entle  care  his  people  ; 
But  not  they,  nor  bird,  nor  spirit. 
E'er  can  reach  his  great  dominion. 
E'er  can  reach  his  glorious  presence ! 


MOUNT  EDGECUMBE. 


L^ 


ONG  ago,  when  time  was  younger, 
Ere  the  years  had  made  him  hoary 
With  the  snows  of  hngering  winters, 
With  the  ripening  rays  of  summer — 
Long  before  the  freezing  north-wind, 
Ever  spreading  wide  his  mantle, 
Threw  it  o'er  his  head  so  thickly 
That  the  sweet  south-wind  could  never 
Kiss  away  the  hoary  shadows — 
Melt  away  the  pale,  gray  year-marks 
That  around  his  head  have  gathered 
Like  a  halo  of  the  ages, — 
Like  a  silver,  shining  halo, — 
Telling  of  the  passing  ages ! 

(279) 


28o  ALASKANA. 

Time  was  young  and  earth  was  lovely  ; 
Bearincr  on  her  swellino-  bosom, 
Holdinor  in  her  teemincr  lowlands 
All  that  man  miorht  need  or  lono-  for, 
All  that  heart  of  man  could  wish  for. 
Lofty  peaks  in  snow-capped  grandeur 
Loomed  above  the  smiling  valleys. 
Guarded  well  the  smiling  meadows, 
Threw  their  shadows  on  the  waters, 
In  the  rippling,  sparkling  rivers, 
'Till  the  fishes,  darting  upward, 
Seemed  to  feel  that  night  had  fallen  : 
And  the  silent  Siwash,  watchinor 
Swiftly  caught  the  shining  greylings 
As  they  turned  in  frightened  wonder — 
Turned  and  plunged  in  trembling  terror 
When  they  found  the  sun  still  shining 
Here  and  there  in  golden  patches — 
Changing  into  gold  and  jewels 
Here  and  there  the  dancincr  waters. 
Time  was  young  and  earth  was  gladsome 
With  her  crown  of  noble  forests. 


Walk  near  Indian  River. 


MOUNT    EDGECUMBE.  28  I 

With  the  dark  and  waving  banners 

Of  her  wind-defying  pine-trees, 

With  her  soft-plumed,  bending  spruces 

And  the  sombre,  songless  branches 

Of  the  stately,  perfumed  cedars 

Markinof  with  their  darker  verdure 

Brighter  emerald  on  the  hill-tops, 

Richer  tints  of  verdant  beauty 

In  the  fair  and  peaceful  valleys ! 

Over  all  were  peace  and  plenty 

Springing  from  the  earth's  fair  store-house, 

Bounding  from  the  crystal  bosom 

Of  the  sea  and  lakes  and  rivers. 

Of  the  broad,  life-teeming  roadways 

That  between  the  isles  and  mainland 

Ever  restlessly  rushed  onward. 

But  a  cloud  arose  one  morning, 

Dark  and  fierce  it  rose,  and  darker. 

Shading  all  the  smiling  valleys 

With  its  wild  and  angry  frowning  ; 

Binding  with  a  band  of  blackness 

Mountain-top  and  sea-crag  summit. 


282  ALASKANA. 

Bending  low  above  the  waters, 
Churning'  into  foam  their  billows, 
Lashing  into  "wildest  fury 
Mountain  winds  and  ocean  voices  ! 
'Till  the  friofhtened  Siwash  callincr 
Heard  no  answer  but  the  lashino- 
And  the  fearful,  angry  wildness 
Of  the  driving  rain,  and  screaming 
Of  the  birds  and  beasts  that  echoed 
Back  again  in  fierce  confusion 
From  the  tremblingr  crasfs  and  mountains 
Then  the  lovely  earth  grew  weary 
Of  the  darkness  and  the  fierceness, 
Of  the  wild  and  bleak  commotion, 
And  she  sank  beneath  the  waters — 
Sank  until  the  waters  shrouded 
All  her  beauty  in  their  blackness, 
And  they  rose  above  her  hill-tops  !  — 
Mounted  to  her  loftiest  land-points, 
Sweeping  life  and  hope  before  them, 
Like  the  falling  leaves  of  autumn 
Fly  before  the  chilling  north-wind  ! 


MOUNT   EDGECUMBE.  283 

Then  a  few  despairing  people 
Caught  the  floating  logs  of  cedar, 
Seized  the  fragrant  logs  and  bound  them 
Close  together  for  a  life-raft, 
That  might  hold  them  till  the  tempest, 
Raging  still,  had  spent  its  anger. 
But  no  float  might  brave  the  storm-king, 
For  he  tore  the  raft  asunder — 
Broke  in  two  the  raft  of  cedars 
And  then  hurled  the  parts  so  distant 
That  the  fathers  and  the  mothers 
Never  met  again — and  children 
Never  heard  the  plaintive  voices 
That  were  calling,  wildly  calling, 
Answered  only  by  the  tempest 
And  the  shrill  winds'  taunting  echo ! 
Throuo-h  the  darkness  and  the  wildness 
Chethel  held  his  sister  closely- 
Fast  and  close  he  stayed  beside  her, 
Till  a  stronger  wave  and  blacker 
Tore  her  from  his  fond  protection — 
Seized  and  bore  her  from  her  brother— 


284  ALASKANA. 

Tho'  he  bravely  strove  to  hold  her ! 
And  the  dark  waves  tossed  her  onward, 
Far  beyond  his  frantic  calling  !  — 
Far  away  from  brave  young-  Chethel, 
Tho'  he  sought  her  in  the  darkness, 
Tho'  he  called  her  name  so  loudly ! 

"Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon,"  in  echoes 
Was  the  only  sound  that  answered, 
Tho'  in  wild  despair  he  shouted 
Till  the  mad  waves  paused  to  listen 
And  the  fierce  winds  bore  his  message 

"Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon,  my  sister, 
You  will  never  see  your  brother. 
You  may  watch  and  wait  till  suntide 
And  your  eyes  will  not  find  Chethel ! 
You  may  gaze  far  into  midnight 
And  you  will  not  see  me  ever ! 
But  my  voice  will  echo  round  you. 
Now  and  always  will  you  hear  me  !" 
Then  he  threw  his  arms  up  wildly, 
And  they  changed  to  mighty  pinions, 
And  his  form  grew  free  and  bird-like 


MOUNT    EDGECUMBE.  285 

As  he  tried  his  Hmbs,  new  feathered ; 
Then  he  flapped  his  great  wings  proudly, 
Turned  his  eager  eyes  to  south-ward, 
And  he  flew  to  south  and  west- ward 
Where  no  watchino-  eve  could  follow, 
Where  the  anxious,  gazing  T'linkets 
Could  no  longer  see  young  Chethel ! 
Ah-ofish-ahn-ahkon  was  carried 
By  the  rushing,  surging  billows — 
Borne  along  as  splintered  timber. 
Tosses  in  the  storm-threshed  waters, 
'Till  she  touched  a  rugged  stone-point 
On  the  side  of  towering  Edgecumbe  : — 
Touched  the  earth,  that  seemed  to  quiver 
At  the  fall  of  every  footstep. 
But  she  fought  the  billows  bravely 
And  she  climbed  the  lofty  summit, 
Reached  the  mountain-top,  and  rested 
On  the  brow  of  mighty  Edgecumbe, 
Suddenly  the  mountain  opened  ! — 
Burst  its  stony  crown  and  gathered 
To  its  heart  the  girl,  storm  weary — 


286  ALASKAN  A. 

Took  into  its  rugged  bosom 

Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon,  the  lost  one  ! 

There  she  rested  and  grew  stronger : 

Strong  she  grew  and  good  and  noble, 

For  she  seized  the  earth's  supporter, 

Clasped  and  held  the  trembling  pillar, 

Raised  the  earth  above  the  waters. 

Held  it  firmly,  while  the  rivers 

Once  more  sought  their  earth-bound  channels ! 

Stronger  held  it  while  the  verdure 

Softly  crept  o'er  mount  and  valley, 

While  the  saddened  T'linkets  wandered. 

Looking  for  their  homes  and  people  ! 

While  the  Sitkan,  the  Alaskan 

Loncred  in  vain  for  kindred  voices  ! 

Still  she  held  it.    Peace  and  plenty 

Once  more  smiled  beneath  the  sunlight: 

Men  and  women  ceased  repining 

And  their  old  pursuits  and  pleasures 

Grew  upon  them,  till  they  wondered 

If  that  awful  time  of  darkness. 

Wild  with  terror  and  confusion, 


MOUNT   EDGECUMBE.  287 

Had  not  seemed  far  worse  than  beinp- ! 
Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon,'-'  still  holding 
Fast  and  strong  the  mighty  pillar, 
Sees  the  teeming  land  grow  richer, 
Hears  the  chanting  of  the  wind-gods, 
Knows  the  pseons  of  earth-voices, 
And  her  noble  heart  grows  better, 
And  her  arms,  as  strong  as  iron. 
Firmer  clasp  the  earth's  foundations, 
Guarding  it  against  the  spirits 
That  would  crush  its  new-found  beauty  ! — 
That   would  fain  destroy  the  millions 
Which  are  nurtured  in  its  bosom  ! 
Fierce  and  long  they  rage,  and  struggling. 
Shake  the  earth  from  rim  to  centre — 
Rock  it  with  their  angry  battling. 
Till  it  sways  almost  to  falling ! 
Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon  is  mighty — 
And  she  holds  it  fast  and  stronger ; 
And  the  earth  may  smile  and  increase, 
For  her  care  will  never  waver  ! 

*  See  note  in  Appendix. 


288  ALASKANA. 

Ne'er  the  world  again  knew  Chethel 
As  the  dark-eyed  man  and  brother, 
But  the  great  bird,  Kunna-kaht-eth, 
Holds  his  spirit  in  its  keeping. 
There  he  dwells  upon  the  mountain, 
Where  his  sister  disappearing, 
Left  the  sign  that  led  him  to  her, — 
Left  a  hollow  for  his  nest-place, 
Where  his  home  micrht  be  forever. 
When  he  calls  upon  his  sister, 
When  his  wild  heart  longs  to  greet  her, 
Loud  and  hiofh  his  voice  re-echoes 
And  the  listeninof  earth  grows  troubled — 
Trembling  in  the  threatening  tempest 
That  his  soundino-  tones  awaken  ! 

O 

On  the  black  storm-cloud  he  rushes. 

Sporting  in  its  sunless  grandeur. 

Bathing  in  its  inky  vapors. 

Till  his  giant  wings  grow  heavy ; 

Then  he  flaps  them,  and  their  thunder 

Shakes  each  frowninsf  crao^  and  mountain  ! 

And  the  ruffling  of  his  pinions 


MOUNT    EDGECUMBE.  289 

Rumbles  far  o'er  vale  and  hill-top, 

Waking  with  their  angry  rustlings 

Throbbinof  answers  in  earth's  heart-beats. 

And  his  eagle-eyes  flash  boldly; 

Far  and  wide  their  lightning  quivers  ! 

Thro'  the  blackest  cloud  he  rushes 

And  their  riven  sides  turn  livid — 

Blazing  with  the  fiery  flashes 

Of  the  great,  bold  eyes  of  Chethel, 

That  gaze  out  beneath  the  eyelids 

Of  the  Osprey — Kunna-kaht-eth  ! 


19 


BARANOV  CASTLE. 


/"^OUNT  Baranov's  niece  was  lovely, 
^-^  With  a  sweet  and  gentle  beauty 
That  could  win  the  faith  of  princes, 
One  of  whom  beheld  and  loved  her, — 
Watched  her  as  she  graced  the  castle 
With  her  tall  and  slender  figure, 
With  her  smile  so  rare  and  winsome. 
And  her  face,  whose  each  emotion 
Bade  the  pure  young  blood  flow  brightly, 
Or  recede  from  cheek  and  forehead. 
In  each  change  she  seemed  the  fairer, 
So  that  hearts,  who  loved  her  fondly, 
Perfect  thought  her,  whether  pallid 
As  the  lily's  spotless  petal, 
(290) 


BARANOV    CASILE.  29 I 

Or  when  roses  chased  each  other 

On  her  cheeks'  transparent  surface. 

As  he  gazed  his  heart  grew  fonder, 

And  her  voice,  with  silvery  music, 

Held  him  in  such  sweet  enchantment 

That  he  longed  to  win  and  wed  her. 

So  he  asked  the  bluff,  old  baron. 

Who  was  guardian  of  the  maiden, 

And  he  gave  consent,  nor  questioned, 

If  the  girl  was  pleased  or  willing. 

Swelled  with  pride,  the  count  informed  her 

Of  her  gay  and  brilliant  future. 

Of  the  court  that  should  be  grander 

With  her  as  its  regal  princess. 

But  the  girl  grew  pale  as  marble. 

And  her  voice  refused  to  answer, 

While  her  heart's  tumultuous  throbbing 

Caused  her  breath  to  rise  and  flutter 

As  a  bird,  whose  nest  is  stolen, 

Or  whose  mate  is  dead  or  wounded. 

With  surprise  the  count  surveyed  her, 

As  she  stood  so  sadly  shaken  ; 


292  ALASKANA. 

Then  he  frowned  and  soon  demanded 
Why  she  stood  so  pale  and  silent  ? 
Why  she  did  not  smile,  and  wonder 
How  such  great  and  noble  fortune 
To  her  simple  lot  had  fallen  ? 
Then  she  spoke,   "  I  cannot  wed  him. 
For  I  love  the  young  lieutenant, 
Whose  bright  face  and  noble  courage 
You  so  oft  have  praised  and  noticed." 
Then  he  stormed  !  The  girl  grew  paler, 
And  he  swore  !  She  heard,  but  moved  not ; 
Then  he  tried  persuasive  reason, 
Rut  she  shook  her  head  and  whispered 
That  her  troth  was  far  too  sacred. 
That  she  dared  not  break  her  promise. 
Nor  become  the  bride  of  splendor, 
When  her  heart,  with  truth  and  fervor, 
Clung  to  one  who  loved  her  fondly. 
Then  the  burly  count  turned  gentle 
And  with  cunning,  cold  and  cruel, 
Seemed  to  give  consent,  if  surely 
He  would  find  a  proof  convincing 


BARANOV    CASTLE.  2g^ 

Of  the  young  lieutenant's  honor. 
So  he  called  the  man  and  plied  him 
With  a  host  of  earnest  questions, 
While  the  noble  youth  made  answers 
Which  gave  proof  of  honest  purpose. 
Then  he  grasped  his  hand  and  bade  him 
Always  be  so  brave  and  truthful, 
And  he  left  them,  gay  and  joyous, 
While  he  sought  the  prince  and  told  him 
That  his  niece  was  highly  flattered 
With  the  great,  the  noble  honor! 
But  she  begged  his  princely  pardon, 

"  If  she  asked  his  august  favor 
Till  she  felt  more  calm,  and  equal 
To  return  a  tranquil  message." 
And  the  prince,  in  no  wise  doubtful, 
Sent  the  word  that  never  reached  her — 

"  That  his  heart  should  wait  her  answer 
With  such  fondness  as  should  lead  her 
To  make  haste,  and  bid  him  welcome 
As  her  faithful  friend  and  lover." 
Now,  for  days,  the  world  seemed  fairer 


294  ALASKANA. 

To  the  g-irl  and  earnest  soldier, 

Whose  increasing  duties  promised 

Quick  promotion,  and  a  station 

Where  his  bride  should  share  his  quarters. 

But  one  day  the  sky  was  clouded, 

Though  the  cause  was  bright  with  promise. 

He  was  called  upon  a  mission 

That  would  lead  to  such  advancement, 

That  their  wildest  dreams  had  never 

Even  thought  to  see  accomplished  ! 

Even  so,  the  parting  pained  them 

With  a  strange  and  dull  foreboding, 

That  left  each  with  pallid  features 

And  a  heart  whose  every  motion 

Seemed  to  lift  a  painful  burden. 

He  was  Q-one  !  and  now  the  baron, 

With  such  haste  as  proved  him  heartless. 

Urged  the  girl  by  taunt  and  railing — 

By  command  and  threats  of  vengeance 

On  herself  and  absent  lover — 

To  receive  the  prince  and  treat  him 

As  his  royal  state  demanded. 


BARANOV    CASTLE.  295 

So  the  maiden,  sad  and  wearied, 
With  her  fierce  and  long-  contention, 
And  assured  her  absent  soldier 
Should  be  sent  to  die  in  bondage, — 
That  a  dark,  Siberian  dungeon 
Would  receive  and  hold  him  safely, 
Where  no  word  of  hers  should  find  him  ; 
But  that  news  must  reach  him  surely, 
"  She  had  changed  her  love  as  calmly 
As  his  hand  would  chano"e  a  p-auntlet !  " — 
Wearily  and  sadly  yielded — 
Yielded,  though  her  heart  was  breaking ! 
So  her  wedding-day  was  splendid 
With  the  liofhts  and  weddino^  favors, 
With  a  feast,  whose  every  viand 
Held  its  own  unrivaled  richness! 
And  the  gay  brocade  and  jewels 
Flashed  and  gleamed  in  royal  splendor, 
While  the  courtiers  danced  and  worshiped 
At  the  shrine  of  youth  and  beauty. 
But  the  bride  looked  white  as  snow-drift 
And  her  lovely  eyes  were  tearful. 


296  ALASKANA. 

ThoLigli  her  proud  and  artful  uncle 
Bade  her  wake  and  trrace  the  weddin"" 
With  sweet  smiles  and  rosy  blushes. 
When  the  prince  and  she  were  standim^^ 
To  receive  congratulations, 
Through  the  hall  there  strode  a  soldier, 
Travel-stained  and  pale  as  ashes ; 
And  his  eyes  were  dark  and  sunken, 
And  his  hair  across  his  forehead 
Damp  as  dew,  and  clinging  closely. 
Through  the  crowd  he  rushed!  notheedine 
Whom  he  pressed  aside  or  jostled, 
Till  he  stood  before  the  lady. — 
Then  he  seized  her  hand,  and  gazing 
On  the  ring  so  surely  telling 
That  his  love  was  lost  forever ! — 
Paused  awhile,  then  firmly  grasping 
From  his  breast  a  jeweled  dagger. 
Swift  as  thought  her  life-blood  followed 
One  strong  stroke,  that  aimed  as  truly 
As  a  practiced  swordsman  weapon 
Touched  the  heart  he  hoped  to  gladden  ! — 


BARANOV    CASTLE.  297 

Killed  the  girl  he  hoped  to  cherish ! 
Shrieks  and  curses,  loud  and  awful, 
Made  the  banquet  hall  re-echo ; 
And  the  soldier  wild  and  haggard, 
Gazed  upon  the  bride,  then,  turning. 
Left  the  room,  no  hand  to  stay  him, 
For  his  deed  had  stunned  their  senses  ! 
Mad  with  fierce  and  frenzied  anguish. 
Quick  as  thought  he  sought  the  water ; 
There  his  brain,  with  grief  o'erburdened, 
And  his  wounded  heart  soon  rested 
From  the  world's  deceitful  troubles  ! 
But  the  girl's  fair  spirit  wanders 
Up  and  down  the  gloomy  hall-ways. 
When  the  years'  unerring  cycles 
Bring  to  mind  that  eve  so  fatal. 
There  she  walks,  her  silken  garments 
Rustling  as  they  sweep  behind  her, 
And  her  eyes  with  tears  are  glist'ning 
While  her  hands  are  clasping  closely 
O'er  the  wound  that  loosed  her  spirit 
From  a  cold  and  loveless  bondage. 


298  ALASKANA. 

And  when  storms  arise  at  midnight, 
Lashino-  into  foam  the  billows, 
When  the  wind-sobs,  low  and  mournful, 
Make  the  nights  more  sad  and  lonely. 
Then  she  stands  and  holds  a  lantern 
From  the  castle's  ancient  turret, 
Toward  the  waves,  till  morn  awakens — 
That  her  love  may  not  be  saddened 
With  the  cruel  storm  and  darkness. 


THE  SILENT  CITY. 


OiLENCE  reigns,  except  the  booming- 

Of  the  glaciers'  wild  artill'ry  ! 
And  the  rushing  roar  and  splashing 
Of  the  new-born  floes  and  icebergs, 
That  resound  with  bold  intenseness 
Through  the  northern  cold  and  stillness- 
No  w  and  then  again  repeating — 
While  a  grand,  majestic  quiet 
Strives  to  hold  complete  possession 
Of  the  bay  and  icy  mountains. 
Night  has  passed  away,  its  phantoms 
Glide  alonor  and  leave  no  traces, — 
Not  a  shade  is  left  to  witness 
Of  their  still,  their  ghost-like  presence  ; 

(299) 


500  ALASKANA. 

For  the  pale,  sweet  smile  of  morning 

Shames  them  with  its  tranquil  beauty. 

Now  it  draws  the  mists  toward  it, 

Tinting-  every  brilliant  globule, 

Painting  every  tiny  spray-drop. 

With  its  own  translucent  fairness. 

Up  they  rise  toward  the  ether, 

Leaving  rarely  clear  the  landmarks 

And  the  bay's  tide-rippled  waters, 

Pausing  for  awhile  above  them 

Like  a  frail,  ethereal  flooring — 

When  behold  !  a  town,  a  city, 

Rests  upon  the  baseless  structure  ! 

Buildings,  planned  by  those  who  never 

Thought  their  craft  should  gain  such  witness, 

Rise  to  meet  the  calm  inspection 

Of  the  still  and  stormless  dawning! 

One,  an  ivy-grown  cathedral, 

Fashioned  when  the  world  was  younger. 

Bearing  on  its  walls  the  tide-marks 

That  the  rolling  years  have  printed  ; 

And  in  contrast,  strangely  jarring 


THE    SILENT    CITY.  3OI 

With  the  mellow  roof  and  gables, 
Rise  ereat  scaffoldinors  and  ladders 
Compassing  the  superstructures 
Which  will  loom  above  its  stature, 
Liftinof  towers,  whose  stately  outlines 
Can  but  make  its  beauty  grander, 
And  its  walls    more  firmly  age-proof. 
There  an  edifice  shows  boldly 
Near  the  old  cathedral's  shadow. 
And  a  breathing  space  lies  open. 
Which  may  be  a  verdant  common. 
Where  the  city's  weary  children 
Find  a  touch  of  smiling  nature 
Waiting  to  relieve  the  dullness 
Of  the  never  changing  routine 
That  awaits  them  as  a  birth-right, 
Long  before  their  hands  are  able 
To  perform  the  tasks  before  them, 
Lone  before  their  hearts  are  willinof 
To  forego  all  earthly  pleasures 
For  the  sake  of  cheerless  duty. 
Through  the  town  a  river  travels, 


302  ALASKANA. 

Bearing  on  its  breast  the  shipping 
Which  stands  out  in  brave  distinctness 
In  Alaska's  ghostly  city  ! 
Strangely  clear  each  standing  object 
Looms  among  its  silent  neighbors, 
With  no  sien  of  life  to  mar  it 
Of  its  own  peculiar  features  ! 
Clearer,  brighter  still,  each  building. 
More  distinct  and  fair  each  ship-mast 
Seems  to  palpitate  with  brilliance 
And  in  glorious  tints  to  quiver  ! 
Then  they  sway,  as  if  the  ocean 
Held  them  on  its  restless  bosom. 
And  they  rock,  and  seem  to  tremble 
With  some  inward,  chill  commotion  ; 
Then  they  slowly  bend,  and  totter 
On  their  once  secure  foundations. 
And  they  sink  from  wondering  vision. 
Sink  in  quivering  oscillations 
As  a  vessel  wrecked,  disabled  ! — 
As  the  sea  engulfs  a  shipwreck, 
So  the  mists,  a  shimmering  vortex, 


THE    SILENT    CITY.  303 

Seize  and  bear  the  spectre  city 
Far  from  sight,  with  not  a  vestige 
Left  to  note  its  wondrous  presence  ! 
And  the  morninpf  rises  fairer 
While  its  bright,  coquettish  glances 
Break  o'er  glinting  peaks  and  grottoes — 
Beam  along  the  glacier  edges — 
And  its  blushes,  pure  and  rosy, 
Spread  along  the  sky,  and,  bending. 
Gleam  on  every  wave  and  ripple  ; 
But  they  find  no  trace  to  tell  them 
Of  that  weird,  ethereal  city, 
Of  that  silent,  phantom  city  ! 


CLIFF-BUILDERS. 


/^UT  in  Bering's  Sea,  King's  Lsland 
^-^   Rears  its  great,  basaltic  bulwarks. 
Sheer  from  out  the  surofine  waters. 
That  forever  rush  and  tumble 
From  the  sea,  whose  angry  billows 
Roll  in  giant,  roaring  columns. 
Like  a  mighty  army  thundering 
At  the  gates  of  some  great  fortress  ! 
So  they  heave  their  mad  artillery 
At  the  frownino-  rocks  that  break  them 
Into  spray  and  foam  and  bubbles, — 
Shatter  them  to  glittering  atoms, 
As  a  mighty  hand  could  shiver 
With  one  stroke  a  crystal  goblet ! 

(304) 


CLIFF-BUILDERS.  305 

riien  the  vanquished  waves  receding, 
Meet  with  grander  reinforcements, 
Panting,  eager  for  the  contest, 
Who,  with  wild,  exultant  voices, 
Plunge  against  those  splintered  columns 
That  repulse  their  maddest  lashing. 
Calmly  mark  the  swift  receding 
And  remain  in  cold  abeyance, 
Waiting  for  each  daring  onslaught. 
Conscious  of  the  flint-like  nature 
That  has  held  through  passing  ages 
And  for  ages  more  will  keep  it, — 
That  lone,  dreary,  storm-swept  station 
In  the  restless,  tossing  sea-road. 
So  the  waves  grow  never  weary, 
And  the  rocks  refuse  surrender, 
While  their  warring  leaves  no  landing 
For  the  ships  that  sail  so  proudly — 
Ships  that  find  a  port  awaiting 
In  some  cove  or  quiet  inlet 
On  those  sister  islands,  dotting 
With  their  crests,  these  mingled  waters. 


306  ALASKANA. 

On  this  islet's  crown  no  mortal 
Could  withstand  the  fiendish  fijry 
Of  the  winds  which  seem  to  gather 
All  their  wildest,  fiercest  charges, 
And  to  hurl  them,  mad  with  anger, 
At  their  own  insane  endeavors, 
Sweeping  o'er  the  dark,  grey  fragments 
Of  the  rocks,  that  lie  like  portions 
Of  some  grand  columnar  temple, 
Broken  by  an  earthquake's  quiver ! 
Not  a  blade  of  grass  nor  flower — 
Not  the  clinging  hardy  mosses — 
Nor  a  shade  of  gracious  verdure 
Decks  Ookivok's  rugfeed  forehead. 
Nothing  green,  except  the  tinting 
Of  the  rocks  themselves,  that  sometimes 
Show  a  cold  and  brownish  olive 
When  the  sunlight  stoops  to  kiss  them 
And  bestow  his  royal  brightness, 
Rich  in  life-producing  showers. 
Only  hardy  fungus,  sprouting, 
Takes  its  life  from  sun  and  water. 


CLIFF-BUILDERS.  307 

And  with  wondrous  strength  holds  closely 
Round  those  columns,  roughly  chiseled, — 
Closely  clasps  its  leathery  bosses, 
Here,  within  a  sheltered  crevice  ; 
There  it  spreads  its  dusky  mantle 
On  a  rock,  storm -seared  and  ruorored, 
And  no  power  can  loose  its  fibres. 
For,  if  ruthless  hands  should  tear  it. 
Either  grasping,  rocky  fragments 
Loose  their  hold  upon  the  cliff-crests. 
Or  the  fungus-heart  holds  faster, 
Though  its  outward  form  be  broken, 
And  its  darkly  polished  surface 
Goes  to  tell  the  silent  story 
Of  its  lonely,  storm-swept  birth-place. 
Winter  spreads  its  downy  covering. 
But  the  sighing  winds  uplift  it. 
And  the  briny  spray,  uptossing. 
Soon  destroys  its  virgin  whiteness. 
While  the  summer  days  are  darkened 
With  the  misty,  rolling  fog-banks, 
That  are  born  of  close  comminoflincr 


308  ALASKANA. 

Of  the  Arctic's  ice-chilled  current, 

And  the  mild,  soft  waters  flowing 

From  the  distant  shores  of  Asia. 

Those  frail  objects,  clinging,  nest-like, — 

Like  a  swallow's  nest  suspended. 

Are  the  summer  homes  of  mortals , 

Men  and  women  and  their  children. 

Who  have  built  those  strange  cliff-houses 

With  strong  planks,  which  serve  as  platforms, 

Held  securely  in  their  places 

By  great  spikes  of  bone,  imbedded 

In  the  iron  rocks  that  keep  them; 

While  they  form  the  sides  and  roofing 

Of  the  ribs  of  whale  or  walrus. 

With  the  shoulder-blades  and  side-ribs 

Of  the  prey  they  live  by  catching ; 

These  they  fasten  firm  and  strongly. 

Tied  with  tendons  of  the  walrus 

On  two  pegs  of  bone,  deep  driven 

In  the  stones,  that  hold  them  safely 

Thro'  wild  storms  however  fearful. 

Then  they  make  an  awning  shelter 


CLIFF-BUILDERS.  309 

Of  the  toughest  hides,  that  held  them, — 
Those  orreat  bones  and  iron  tendons, 
While  the  beasts  were  living  monsters. 
All  around  they  place  a  railing, 
To  prevent  a  dreadful  falling 
When  the  tempests  rock  these  eyries. 
Homes  of  dark-faced  human  vultures. 
Here  they  live  with  all  their  household, 
Through  the  short  and  misty  summer, 
Always  on  the  look-out,  watching 
For  the  whale  that  must  supply  them 
With  its  bones  and  flesh  and  blubber. 
Shelter,  meat  and  drink  combining 
With  stronof  articles  for  barter. 
Or  they  mark  the  clumsy  walrus 
As  it  floats  along  while  sleeping 
On  the  cakes  of  ice  that  lull  it 
Into  deeper,  safer  slumber. 
These  they  hunt  with  wondrous  cunning, 
And  with  strength  surpassing  Nimrod's, 
They  secure  the  flesh  for  eating. 
Hide  for  clothing,  shoes  and  shelter, 


3IO 


ALASKANA. 

And  the  large,  fierce  tusks  of  ivory, 
For  the  traders'  eager  deahng. 
At  the  season's  close  they  gather 
All  they  need  of  wares  for  traffic, 
And  secure  them  in  their  ky-acks, — 
Boats  as  light  as  cork,  and  graceful. 
But  so  sea-proof  that  old  Neptune 
Rarely  finds  one,  or  its  inmates, 
Caught  within  his  briny  meshes. 
There  the  Mah-le-moot  takes  passage 
In  his  boat  with  oars  uplifted, 
While  two  friends,  with  nerves  of  iron 
And  with  sinews  braced  for  effort, 
Seize  the  boat  with  precious  cargo, 
And,  in  time  propitious,  throw  it 
Far  beyond  the  yawning  breakers, 
Out  to  sea  beyond  the  surges ! 
Swiftly  spins  the  bounding  ky-ack, 
While  the  oars  propel  it  lightly 
And  the  Mah-le-moot's  dark  visage 
Beams  with  thoughts  of  trades  successful 
And  a  safe  return  to  kindred. 


CLIFF-BUILDERS,  3II 

When  the  hunting  time  is  over, 
And  drear  winter  takes  his  sceptre, 
Into  caves  within  the  rock's  face — 
Cut  with  patient,  tiresome  labor, 
Close  beside  their  summer  eyries, 
Moves  each  savage  and  his  children, 
Wife  and  chattels  and  his  fortune, 
Great  or  less,  as  fate  has  favored 
Or  denied  successful  catches  ; — 
Whether  traders  have  been  eager 
Or  refused  the  offered  bargains. 
Safe  within  these  stony  caverns, 
Throuorh  the  lono-  and  dismal  winter, 

o  o 

Through  the  bitter,  cheerless  passage 
Of  the  days  and  nights,  so  shadowed 
That  to-morrow's  faint  uprising 
Seems  but  weary  moments  lengthened 
From  the  skirts  of  days  departed 
That  have  left  their  shadows  trailing. 
Safely  housed,  those  daring  hunters 
Spend  the  winter,  but  how  dreary  ! 
What  a  life,  so  fraught  with  danger, 


3  I  2  ALASKANA. 

Or  SO  dulled  widi  sunless  cycles  ! 
Muffled  thunders  from  the  sea-god, 
Or  faint  shrieks  of  storm-winds  clashino- 
Echoinor  through  the  dark  recesses 
Are  the  only  signs  that  enter 
To  proclaim  a  world  still  moving! 
And  the  summer's  yearly  entrance, 
Sees  the  old  routine  lived  over, 
Fraught  with  dull,  unerring  sameness  ; 
But  that  some  may  be  more  reckless 
And  rncrease  their  store  of  produce. 
While  another's  hand,  age-weakened. 
Falls  below  his  yearly  income. 
Rocked  by  winds  forever  screaming 
Round  their  heads  in  fiercest  voices. 
While  the  sea,  so  far  beneath  them. 
Leaps  as  if  to  seize  their  strongholds 
And  engulf  them  in  the  madness. — 
With  what  voices  are  they  gifted 
That  can  hold  their  daily  converse 
In  this  constant  din  that  nature 
Uses  in  her  wild  communino-  ? 


CLIFF-BUILDERS. 

Do  those  Mah-le-moots  know  nothing 
Of  the  sweet  and  tender  beauty 
That  invites  and  offers  home-room 
On  the  land  so  near  them  lying  ? 
Do  the  tiny  souls  out-gazing 
Find  enough  of  joy  and  gladness, — 
See  enouofh  of  wondrous  orrandeur 
To  delig-ht  their  wakinor  vision  ? 
Can  it  be  that  barren  islet — 
Cold  and  bare  and  tempest  beaten, 
Walled  around  with  endless  surges 
And  forever  gulfed  in  clamor — 
Holds  enouofh  to  make  the  dwellers 
Love  their  home  and  cherish  fondly 
All  the  sounds  that  seem  so  jarring? 
Are  their  homes,  we  hold  so  cheerless, 
Just  as  dear  as  those  we  cherish  ? 
And  do  tender  hearts  beat  wildly 
For  that  island  home  when  absent. 
As  our  hearts  would  ache  with  longing 
For  the  land  we  claim  so  proudly  ? 
No  one  answers.     But  they  travel 


J^O 


3  1 4  ALASKANA. 

And  return  as  years  roll  onward, 

As  the  eagle  seeks  its  eyrie, 

Or  the  swallow  seeks  its  nest-place  ! 

We  may  bid  them  come  and  offer 

What  to  us  is  worth  desiring. 

And  they  turn  away  disgusted 

At  those  gifts  of  our  bestowing. 

It  is  w^ell,  if  they  but  answer 

And  accept  the  golden  sunshine 

That  can  pierce  and  cheer  the  darkest 

Of  their  weird  and  lonely  caverns, 

That  can  gleam  in  endless  brightness 

Through  the  mists  and  clouds  and  fog-banks 

In  a  rare  and  glad  effulgence, 

Reaching  far  beyond  the  shadows. 

Out  beyond  life's  troublous  breakers  ! 


TAKU  INLET. 


IT  ERE  the  channel's  waters  spreading 

Turn  toward  the  land,  and  find  it 
So  entrancing  in  its  fairness, — 
So  stupendous  in  its  grandeur  ! 
Find  its  ice-bound  coast  so  willing 
To  receive  their  bright  advances, 
That  they  lie  in  sheets  of  silver 
At  the  feet  of  lofty  ice-peaks — 
Peaks  uplifting  dazzling  foreheads, 
Crested  here  and  there,  where  streamlets 
Stealing  all  their  liquid  beauty 
From  the  pure  dissolving  snow-banks — 
From  some  o-lacier's  dissolution — 

o 

Trickle  noiselessly  and  swiftly 
(315) 


3l6  ALASKANA. 

O'er  their  stately  brows,  now  seaming 
Lines  as  deep  as  care  has  graven 
Over  brows  less  clear  and  lofty ; 
Now,  with  bright,  capricious  fancy. 
Smoothing  out  deep  lines  and  wrinkles 
That  but  recently  seemed  fastened 
Inerasable  and  changeless ! 
Cliffs  and  crags,  all  sharply  gleaming 
Underneath  an  icy  covering, 
Stand  like  sentries,  gravely  guarding 
Grander  crags,  cliffs  more  imposing, 
That  in  ages  past  were  torrents 
Rushing  onward,  wild,  impetuous  ! — 
Till  the  north  wind's  breath  swept  fiercely 
O'er  them  all  and  made  them  silent, 
And  restrained  their  onward  progress  ! 
Yet  they  go,  with  stealthy  motion. 
Out  to  join  the  sister  waters, 
Carrying  in  their  undercurrent 
Stones,  and  ore,  and  rounded  boulders. 
Silvery  sand,  and  broken  sea-shells ; 
While  above  the  crlistenino-  mants 
Proudly  stand — then  sway  and  totter, 


TAKU    INLET.  317 

As  they  lose  their  safe  foundation 
On  the  friendly  rocks  and  sand-banks, 
And  with  crashing-,  deep-toned  voices, 
Suddenly  they  plunge  so  deeply 
In  the  fair,  transparent  water, 
That  they  seem  to  pass  forever 
From  the  oforofeous  sunlio-ht  flashincr 
Or  the  tender  moon's  reflection  ; 
But  they  rise  again,  more  brilliant 
From  the  inlet's  quivering  bosom  ! — 
And  each  starts,  a  silent  wand'rer, 
Out  from  home  to  deeper  waters  ! 
One  lone  islet,  bare  and  shoal-like, 
Save  a  straggling  growth  of  spruces, 
And  a  few  poor,  stunted  pine  trees, 
Seems  to  watch  the  deep,  blue  waters 
And  the  glaring  bergs  and  ice-floes 
As  they  each  in  quick  succession, 
Break  away  from  parent  glaciers. 
And  so  proudly  take  their  passage 
That  will  lead  to  naught  but  danger. 
And  to  wave-worn  dissolution  ! 
Only  here  and  there  a  cedar 


3l8  ALASKANA. 

Stands  along  the  shore,  as  guardsman, 

And  a  few  pale  ferns  bend  outward 

Near  the  rippling,  tinted  waters  ; 

But  the  floes  and  bergs  increasing 

In  their  numbers,  outward  sailing 

Only  tip  them  coldly,  lightly. 

As  they  float  away  forever  ! 

See  the  dark  blue  water  shaded 

With  the  gently  moving  cloud-sails. 

Dotted  o'er  with  tiny  hillocks 

Capped  with  snow,  and  swiftly  coursing 

Here  and  there,  as  winds  and  current 

Drive  them  forth  like  down  from  thistles; 

Graced  with  towering  icy  mountains 

Sailing  in  majestic  grandeur. 

Undisturbed  by  whirling  eddies 

Or  by  wandering  northern  breezes. 

As  a  snow-white  flock  attended 

By  a  hand  that  cannot  guide  them — 

As  a  flock  of  swans,  as  graceful 

As  the  fleecy  clouds  above  them — 

And  a  herder  resting,  awe-struck, 

At  their  beauteous,  shining  plumage, 


TAKU    INLET.  319 

And  their  slowly  onward  movements — 
So  they  seem,  that  lonely  island 
And  those  ocean-bound  battalions, 
Moving  on,  as  years  roll  onward — 
Brighdy,  faithfully  fulfilling 
All  their  destiny  has  ordered, 
Though  it  be  to  lose  their  glory, 
Merge  their  forms,  their  very  being 
In  a  stream,  that  makes  them  equal — 
In  a  tide  that  ne'er  will  render. 
E'en  the  grandest,  back  its  splendor, 
Nor  the  fairest  form  its  beauty  ! 
Eyes  behold  this  ice-gemmed  inlet 
With  its  single  island  sentry, 
And  the  rainbow  tints,  that  quiver 
From  its  frozen  crags  and  mountains, 
When  the  sun-rays  glance  upon  them  ; 
With  its  flocks  of  snow  and  silver 
Sailing  on,  and  onward  always — 
And  it  seems  no  fairer  picture 
E'er  can  greet  the  eag^er  gazer ! 
'Till  the  azure  gates  shall  open 
Naught  so  pure  can  greet  their  vision! 


MUIR  GLACIER. 


DRIGHT  Alaska!  fair  and  lovely  ! 
In  her  robes  of  shaded  emerald, 
In  her  flashing,  bounding  rivers, 
In  her  snow-capped  mountain  ranges — 
Flashes  out  new  forms  of  beauty 
As  we  course  alonor  her  channels; 
Rounding  rugged  promontories. 
Underneath  whose  craggy  shadows 
Limpid  mirrors  lie,  reflecting 
Every  point  and  seam  and  crevice, 
Every  spray  of  moss  and  lichen. — 
When  we  cleave  her  straits,  so  narrow 
That  almost  we  fear  the  mountains, 
As  they  lean  so  far  above  us, 

(320) 


MUIR    GLACIER.  32  I 

That  they  seem  Hke  friends  drawn  closely, 
Whispering  words  of  tragic  meaning. 
Living,  gay,  pulsating  summer, 
Ouiverinpf 'neath  the  sun's  warm  p^lances, 
Giving  place  to  cooler  climate 
As  we  hie  along  her  borders  ; 
Viewinof  now  and  then  a  vista 
Calmly,  beautifully  peaceful  ; 
And  now  breathless,  gazing  upward 
Toward  the  giant  mountain  ranges, 
Toward  volcanoes,  seamed  and  hoary! — 
Every  day's  swift  revolution 
Changing  barley  beards  for  poppies, 
Shadowy  spruce  for  silent  cedar; — 
On  the  mountain  side  exposing 
Dazzling  snows  for  vines  a-tangle, 
Silvery  moss  for  waving  grasses, 
As  she  gaily  beckons  northward. 
Leading  on  so  gently,  chaining 
Heart  and  brain  in  sweet  enchantment 
Until  verdant  hills  and  valleys, 
Tree-crowned  mountain-tops  and  canons 


322  ALASKANA. 

All  are  left!     It  seems  a  fairy 
Mieht  have  breathed  the  macjic  "  Presto 
When  we  round  the  point  and  enter 
Glacier  Bay,  Muir  glacier's  harbor  ! 
Cold  and  clear,  the  bay's  bright  bosom 
Gleams  beneath  the  azure  draping 
That  the  bending  sky  spreads  o'er  it, 
Flecked  with  clouds  of  pearl  and  silver. 
Near  the  shadowy  shore  the  waters 
Change  to  glittering  green,  that  flashes 
Like  a  sparkling  group  of  jewels, 
Save  where  glacial  undercurrents 
With  their  milk-like  burden  mingle. 
Turning  polished  tints  to  opal, 
Pale  and  lustreless,  but  lovely. 
Silence  reigns  !  the  awful  stillness 
Like  a  phantom  presence  lingers, 
Ail  unseen,  but  felt  so  plainly 
That  it  seems  to  touch  the  senses, 
Muffling  every  bounding  heart-throb, 
Every  breath  that  seems  to  quiver 
With  a  strange,  unnamed  expectance. 


MUIR    GLACIER. 

Almost  painful  in  its  tenseness. 

Not  a  leaf  is  there  to  answer 

To  the  wind's  loud  salutation, 

Not  a  bird  to  flee  in  terror 

As  we  near  the  g^littering  mountains  ; 

Not  a  beast  to  arowl  defiance 

O 

If  we  scale  the  chill  embankments ! 
Far  away  the  mountain  ranges 
Pile  in  wild,  unclassed  confusion, 
Ragged  peaks,  extinct  volcanoes, 
Rounded  knolls  and  wave-like  hillocks 
Clustering  near  or  stretching  outward 
Far  beyond  our  wondering  vision  : 
Snow-clad  all,  or  maybe  shining 
Underneath  an  icy  garment. — 
Glacier,  cliff  and  mountain  shoulder, 
Leaning  close  against  the  other, 
By  the  ice-keen  chisels  blended. 
Until  ice  and  stone  are  welded 
In  a  firm,  eternal  union. 
Crash  and  boom  !  the  silence  wakens 
With  a  shock,  whose  mighty  roaring 


,24  ALASKANA. 

Rends  the  clouds  widi  diunderous  pealing  ! 

Sends  its  varying  detonations 

Rolling  o'er  the  bay's  clear  surface ! 

Bounding  forth  o'er  mountain  summits 

Where  their  echoes  catch  its  thunders 

And  repeat  them  loudly,  wildly, 

As  if  Nature's  fierce  artillery 

Joined  its  mightiest  cannonading 

In  one  grand,  triumphant  salvo  ! — 

In  a  thousand-voiced  announcement 

Of  an  iceberg's  bold  departure 

On  its  evanescent  journey  ! 

From  the  glacier's  towering  breastworks 

Down  it  slips,  that  brilliant  fragment, 

Grinding,  creaking,  as  it  courses, 

Hastening  now,  then  almost  pausing 

As  it  nears  the  gleaming  edges. 

That  are  all  that  lie  between  it 

And  its  final  downward  launching. 

One  more  slide  and  down  it  flashes ! 

Deep  beneath  the  water  plunging, 

And  they  meet  it,  hissing,  roaring, 


MUIR    GLACIER.  325 

Tossing  spray  in  crystal  rockets  ! — 
Lashing  foam  in  snowy  vapors 
High  along  the  glacial  ramparts, 
Far  along  the  lonely  coast-line — 
Until  spray  and  foam  united 
Glow  and  shine,  a  million  rainbows, 
Arching  icy  points  and  snowbanks, 
Shimmering  bay  and  gloomy  caverns — 
While  the  deep  reverberations 
Onward  roll — their  distant  mutterings 
Echoing  back  more  weird  and  softly, 
Till  they  seem  like  shadow-voices, 
Ere  they  lose  themselves  in  silence  ! 
Down  that  new-born  iceberg  plunges. 
Rises,  sinks  and  turns  uncertain — 
Bounding  up,  uniquely  dancing, 
Rising,  diving,  tumbling,  ever 
Breasting  each  new  wave  more  bravely  ! — 
Showing  more  and  more  the  clearness 
Of  its  glittering,  beaming  frontage ; 
Then  it  settles,  smoothly  sailing 
O'er  the  billowy,  crested  waters 


326  ALASKAN  A. 

That  are  throbbing,  almost  groaning, 
Under  such  wild  agitation 
As  the  stranger's  advent  wakened  ! 
On  it  floats,  its  splendid  beauty 
Tipped  above  with  frosted  helmets! 
Every  seam  by  water  rounded 
Into  softly  glinting  silver. 
Touched  with  tones  of  clearest  azure. 
Deepening  here,  there  gently  changing 
Into  rainbow  pearl  and  opal. 
On  it  sails,  its  fair  companions. 
Each  by  just  such  pecans  greeted 
As  this  claimed  when  proudly  launching, 
Pressing  toward  the  one  bright  bay-front; 
All  like  glorious  ships  in  motion, 
Manned  by  naught  but  wind  and  billows ! 
And  the  bay's  tide-waters  bounding, 
Lash  the  shore  with  feathery  foaming. 
Every  wave,  as  if  indignant 
At  the  ice-floe's  bold  adventure, 
.    Swells  in  fiercely  angry  breakers. 
And  our  ship,  like  frailest  fabric. 


MUIR    GLACIER.  327 

Sways  and  dips,  a  trembling  pigniy 
In  the  ice-ship's  changeful  harbor! 
But  behold  the  glorious  glacier  ! 
Like  a  grandly  ancient  city 
O'er  which  death  has  thrown  his  mantle, 
And  at  once  preserved  its  beauty — 
Cold,  imperishable,  lovely! 
Round  it  stands  its  gleaming  ramparts, 
And  its  breastworks,  white  as  marble, 
Break  the  wild,  encroaching  rollers 
As  they  dash  along  its  sea-w^all : — 
Great  cathedrals,  firmly  standing, 
Rear  aloft  their  towers  and  turrets. 
All  their  points  like  silver  spearheads 
Tipped  with  stars  of  heavenly  brilliance  ! 
Minarets  with  oraceful  tracincrs 
Rear  their  walls  of  clearest  crystal. 
Touched  with  blue  and  gold  and  amber; 
Over  all  the  wave-lulled  silence 
Seems  to  wait  the  deep-toned  chiming 
Of  the  Angelus,  or  maybe 
Of  the  Moslem's  cry  to  Allah ! 


328  ALASKANA. 

Here  and  there  the  snow  has  Hni^ered 
Like  a  halo,  pure  and  spotless, 
O'er  a  point  whose  turquoise  tinting 
Seems  to  pulse  in  trembling  beauty, 
While  below,  the  rock-like  bases 
Turn  to  deepest  dyes  of  azure, 
Indigo,  and  shimmering  purple. 
Follow  on  where  nature  leading 
Opens  here  and  there  a  portal 
Of  such  pure,  translucent  glory, 
Of  such  shades  of  royal  colors, 
That  we  gaze  in  speechless  wonder ! 
Every  sense  is  lost  in  gazing ! 
Now  a  beauteous  cavern  grotto 
Tempts  us  on,  its  roof  is  jeweled 
With  the  clearest  diamond  settings. 
Rubies,  amethysts  and  sapphires 
Lie  around  in  bright  confusion, 
While  a  streamlet's  tinkling  music 
Makes  the  scene  more  purely  lovely, 
More  ethereal  and  entrancing ! 

O 

Yawning  chasms,  walls  of  silver, 


MUIR    GLACIER.  329 

Bathed  In  deepest  blue,  lie  open, 

And  the  streams  which  flow  beneath  them 

Murmur  softly  on  their  journey. 

Stealing  tiny  stones  and  pebbles, 

Gathering  till  to  tint  their  waters 

As  they  hasten  on  to  empty 

In  the  bay's  expansive  bosom. 

Farther  on,  beyond  the  sea-line, 

Massive  bergs,  whose  wild  impatience 

Made  them  leave  the  parent  glacier 

Ere  they  came  so  near  the  water 

As  to  dash  into  its  keeping, 

Stand  like  sentries,  chilly  passive, 

Guarding  safe  the  icy  fortress ; 

Or  a  pale  and  soulless  phalanx, 

Like  a  sombre  funeral  cortegfe 

Waits  in  apathetic  patience 

For  the  foremost  floe  to  motion 

And  the  rest  to  pass  on  slowly 

Toward  the  sure  but  beauteous  ending. 

Can  it  be  this  massive  monarch. 

Whose  bright  life  might  be  eternal — 


330  ALASKANA. 

Whose  orreat  walls  and  orleamincr  summits 

o  o  o 

Tower  above  us  grand  and  lofty, 

Whose  bold  presence  makes  us  breathless, 

And  before  whose  glittering-  splendor 

Human  life  seems  but  a  shadow 

And  our  forms  but  panting  atoms — 

Now  and  every  day  is  moving 

Forward,  downward  to  its  ruin  ? 

That  its  day  of  retribution 

Every  moment  draws  more  closely  ? 

That  the  forest  life  it  shattered 

Soon  will  be  avenged,  and  pillars. 

Formed  of  blasted  pines  and  cedars, 

Shall  remain  to  mark  their  province 

When  this  great,  majestic  despot — 

This  huge  pile  of  gelid  grandeur — 

Will  have  proved  how  evanescent. 

How  unstable  are  its  bulwarks, 

How  ethereal  are  its  seoments  ? 

On  it  moves  !  so  slowly,  surely  ; 

Yet  its  slow  departure  marking 

As  it  grinds  the  rocks  to  powder, 


MUIR    GLACIER.  33  I 

As  it  graves  its  final  signet 

On  the  shrinking  earth  so  deeply 

That  at  least  its  name  may  never 

Pass  away  for  once  and  always  ! 

Pressing  on,  it  carves  some  tracing 

On  each  rolling  stone  and  boulder, 

While  some  flinty,  shining  pebbles 

Hold  so  close,  it  stoops  and  lifts  them, 

Bearing  them  away  as  trophies 

From  their  place  among  the  mountains. 

Or,  perhaps  their  clinging  presence 

Helps  to  make  the  final  downfall 

Scarce  so  bitter  in  its  ending. 

Be  it  so.     But  now  we  linger 

Close  beside  the  glacier's  beauty, 

Note  his  towering  height — his  splendor — 

Try  in  vain  to  count  the  shadings 

And  the  gorgeous,  tinted  pageant 

That  forever  float  around  him 

With  their  gold  and  blue  and  azure, 

With  their  indigo  and  purple, 

Flecked  with  frosted  orold  -and  silver ; 


332  ALASKAN  A. 

Or  with  polished,  soft  enamel 
Deck  his  sides,  his  cloven  bosom, 
His  majestic  head  and  shoulders — 
Make  his  walls  like  sapphire  glisten, 
And  his  wondrous,  ghostly  city 
Shine  in  glorious,  heavenly  beauty  ! 
When  the  morn  breaks  o'er  the  glacier 
Glittering  spears  of  light  shoot  upward 
From  each  turret-point  and  steeple — 
From  each  shattered  edge  of  crystal — 
Rivalling  far  the  clearest  glances 
Of  the  glorious  orb's  uprising! 
When  it  sets,  no  gorgeous  tinting 
Of  its  farewell  glow  is  wasted, 
But  'tis  caught  on  burnished  surface. 
Quivering  point,  or  knife-like  wedges, 
Whence  a  million  briofht  refractions 
Gleam  and  shimmer,  glance  and  sparkle, 
As  if  rainbow  gems  were  trembling 
Ere  they  dashed  their  stainless  glory 
O'er  the  bay's  expectant  surface. 
Crash  !  the  crystal  city  trembles  ! 


MUIR    GLACIER.  ^7,3 

Boom  !  it  thunders  back,  undaunted, 
And  above  the  snowy  vapor 
Rises  fair,  supremely  glorious  ! 
Free  from  earthly  taint  or  tarnish, 
Clear  as  though  the  gates  had  opened 
And  one  moment  flashed  the  splendor 
From  the  pure,  Eternal  City, 
Which  no  hand  of  man  has  fashioned, 
And  no  years  of  blight  can  shadow  ! 


MIRAGE  IN  ALASKA. 


CARTH  is  held  in  spotless  thraldom, 

By  the  weight  of  winter  draping, 
That  has  spread  abroad  and  hidden 
All  the  tundra's  tender  blossoms, 
All  the  velvet  moss  and  sphagnum. 
All  the  erass  and  weeds  and  willows  ; — 
That  has  swept  the  downy  tuftings 
From  the  slender  stalks  that  held  them 
With  such  grace  that  zephyrs  hastened 
To  disport  among  their  beauty, — 
To  uplift  and  toss  them  lightly, 
Till  they  shone  like  silver  frosting 
In  the  twilight's  placid  glimmer. 
All  are  dead  !     The  stems  bend  meekly 

(334) 


MIRAGE    IN    ALASKA.  335 

With  the  snow  that  rests  Hke  blossoms 
On  each  tiny  spear  and  leaflet, 
Of  the  dwarf-like  birch  and  alders  ; 
And  the  willow's  slender  switches 
Sway  so  gently  that  the  snow-wreaths 
Rest  upon  them  as  unruffled 
As  the  down  that  clings  so  closely 
To  the  water-fowl's  broad  bosom. 
When  the  sunlight  dares  to  enter 
In  this  pure  domain  of  winter, 
Gems  of  every  hue  glance  upward 
From  the  earth  and  prisoned  water, 
From  the  bush  and  willow  copses, 
And  the  stark  and  ghostly  sedges. 
Now  the  birds  do  not  disturb  them, 
Do  not  search  among  the  rootlets. 
Nor  awake  strange  echo  answers, 
With  their  wings  and  raspy  voices. 
Clear  and  cold  the  day  arises 
With  a  deep  and  calm  intenseness. 
When  the  trader  starts  to  journey 
With  his  team  of  dogs,  whose  barking 


•36  ALASKANA. 

Seems  to  come  from  distant  valleys — 
From  the  pale  and  cloudless  ether — • 
From  some  place  above  the  earth  floor,- 
Where  they  wait  in  cold  impatience, 
While  the  sled  is  rightly  laden, 
While  their  harness  is  adjusted — 
Then  away  they  bound  !     The  tundra 
Flies  beneath  them  as  they  hasten, 
While  the  light  of  day  can  guide  them 
Toward  the  goal  in  peaceful  safety. 
What  Is  that  ?     The  way  is  altered  ! 
Far  ahead  a  copse  of  willows, 
Or  a  lonely  group  of  birches, 
Bars  the  path  he  fain  would  follow. 
On  he  goes,  but  slower,  striving 
To  arrange  how  he  may  travel. 
That  his  time  shall  not  be  wasted — 
That  his  way  will  not  be  lengthened 
By  a  weary,  tedious  detour. 
Still  the  branches  sway  before  him  ; 
Still  the  slender  trunks  stand  boldly  ; 
And  he  drops  his  eyes  and  ponders. 


MIRAGE    IN    ALASKA.  337 

And  he  frowns  in  earnest  planning, — 
Then  he  gathers  close  the  lap-robes, 
And  he  holds  the  reins  more  firmly. 
Ready  now  to  face  the  troubles 
And  to  lose  no  time  in  fretting; 
When,  behold  !     The  slender  willows 
And  the  birches'  trunks  and  branches 
Prove  to  be  no  more  than  grass-blades, 
Nothing  more  than  grass  and  seed-stalks, 
Which  the  pure,  clear  air,  frost-laden. 
All  astir  with  swift  vibrations, 
Magnified  to  grand  proportions. 
So  the  crystal  waves  passed  onward. 
Leaving  clear  his  frozen  pathway. 
And  the  sled  passed  o'er  the  forest 
That  a  moment  since  had  mocked  him — 
Passed  above  and  bent  the  grasses, 
And  the  last  year's  stalks  and  branches, 
That  once  swayed  beneath  a  burden 
Of  perfumed  and  tender  beauty. 
On  he  speeds  ;  and  then  a  lake-shore 
Rises  bold  and  high  before  him, 


;38  ALASKANA. 

Guarding  close  the  shimmering  waters 
That  reflect  the  cHfls  and  cloudlands: 
And  he  gazes,  lost  in  wonder, 
At  the  vast  and  limpid  stranger, 
Which,  at  near  approach,  grows  distant 
And  at  last  proves  but  a  valley 
Which  the  quivering  air  hung  over 
Ere  it  swept  away,  and  with  it 
Bore  the  cliffs  and  rocks  and  waters. 
There  a  river  flows  more  placid 
Than  the  fair  Pacific's  tide-waves, 
And  its  shores  rise  to'ard  the  ether, 
Lofty  there,  here  low  and  craggy. 
Covered  o'er  with  moss  and  lichens: 
While  he  looks  it  changes  swiftly 
To  a  wild  ravine,  whose  roadway 
Leads  away  through  mountain  passes. 
With  no  stream  or  river  near  it ! 
'Twas  an  atmospheric  picture, 
Like  the  rest — a  mirage  taunting, 
And  the  traveler  wills  that  nothino- 
Shall  have  power  to  make  him  marvel  ! 


MIRAGE    IN    ALASKA.  339 

On  he  bounds  !  the  day  grows  shorter 
And  the  dogs  must  make  the  journey 
Ere  the  longr,  cold  niofht  has  fallen. 
Now  the  welcome  coast  grows  nearer, 
And,  behold !  the  town,  the  station, 
That  he  thought  was  still  so  distant, 
Seems  to  bid  him  cheer  and  welcome: 
Yes,  he  sees  the  trading  station 
And  the  quaint  old  mission  chapel, 
And  the  houses,  somewhat  altered 
From  the  day  he  last  beheld  them. 
As  he  looks  the  changing  shadows 
Make  the  windows  gleam  and  twinkle, 
Make  the  roofs  and  chimney  places 
Seem  to  bend  and  lean  together; 
And  the  houses  change  position, 
As  he  looks  with  longing  vision 
Toward  his  lonely  journey's  ending  ! 
What !  the  mission  turns  and  trembles, 
Rises,  falls  and  sinks  in  darkness  ! 
And  the  station  rears  up  boldly. 
Turns  and  drops  to  find  its  level ! 


340  ALASKAN  A. 

Then  the  village  rocks  and  trembles, 

Quivers  now,  then  drops  so  slowly 

That  he  sees  each  roof  and  window 

Sink  beneath  the  gleaming-  water ! 

What  a  weird,  a  sad  destruction. 

And  no  hand  to  stay  the  danger ! 

But  'twas  stranore  no  human  creature 

Seemed  to  know  the  fate  so  awful 

That  was  gathering  close  around  them. 

And  befell  them  all  unnoticed 

Till,  alas  !  too  late  they  perished 

With  their  homes  and  all  the  village  ! 

On  he  rides  in  hope  of  nearing. 

And  beholding  if  some  remnant 

May  remain  to  tell  the  story 

Of  that  trading  station's  presence. 

On  and  on  !  he  finds  no  fissure. 

Where  the  town  may  have  been  swallowed 

And  he  sees  no  broken  timbers, 

And  no  dead  nor  dying  victims  ! 

On  for  miles  he  rides  and  watches, 

When  at  last  his  eyes  are  fastened 


MIRAGE    IN    ALASKA.  34I 

On  a  trading  post,  a  chapel, 
Houses,  boats  laid  by  for  winter, 
High  caches,  with  full  provisions. 
Men  awaiting  for  his  coming, 
All  alert  for  furs  and  ivory. 
And  for  news  of  huntsmen's  fortune ! 
Now  his  dazzled  eyes  grow  clearer. 
And  his  brain  wakes  up  to  reason, 
And  he  knows  the  late  disaster, 
That  he  gazed  upon  so  wildly, 
Was  the  crowning,  taunting  mirage 
Of  Alaska's  frost-bound  tundra. 


MOONLIGHT  IN  ALASKA. 


OLOWLY,  tenderly  the  daylight 

Fades  away,  as  loath  to  leave  them- 
Loath  to  take  the  golden  brilliance 
From  the  scenes  that  greet  its  coming, 
Scenes  that  smile  with  joy  to  meet  it 
When  it  wakes  above  the  mountains. 
When  its  radiance  dips  in  glory 
All  the  land  and  ice  and  water, 
All  the  dashing,  leaping  waters — 
Waters  surging,  roaring,  bounding, 
Or,  sweet,  limpid  water  creeping 
Slowly  and  serenely  onward, 
Sure  to  catch  the  truest  picture 
Of  the  silver  orb,  whose  coming 
(342) 


MOONLIGHT    IN    ALASKA.  343 

Lolty,  snow-crowned  mountains  welcome 
With  a  light  so  pure,  so  holy, 
That  no  taint  of  earth  seems  near  them. 
Not  a  sicrn  is  there  to  mar  them, — 
That  soft  splendor  of  the  moonlight 
And  the  snowy-crested  giants 
With  their  diadems  of  gem  points, 
Clearer  far  than  rarest  diamonds, 
Holdincr  hiorh  above  the  darkness — 
Far  aloof  from  aught  to  blast  them, 
All  those  silver  pointed  light-rays 
That  the  calm,  pale  moon  surrenders, — 
Reaches  out  and  gently  prisons 
On  each  mountain's  crown  of  brilliants. 
Down  the  rugged  side  she  travels, 
Where  her  lambent  drapery  touches, 
Every  spot  her  trailing  garments 
Rest  upon,  with  feath'ry  lightness. 
Gleams  in  fair,  electric  brightness 
While  the  seams  and  broken  hollows 
Which  her  timid  feet  pass  over 
Form  a  rayless,  inky  background 


144  ALASKANA. 

Drawn  in  lines  of  deepest  darkness, 
Seeming  bottomless  and  fearful ; 
Or  like  bands  of  richest  velvet 
Trim  her  dainty,  gauzy  raiment, 
Making  every  curving  outline 
Seem  more  fairy-like  and  lovely. 
Trees  and  shrubs  and  trembling  grasses, 
Where  her  smiling  face  beams  over, 
Catch  her  rays  and  hold  them  lightly, — 
Hold  them  softly  on  their  leaf  tips  ; 
While  the  heavy,  thicker  foliage, 
Which  her  rays  have  not  discovered, 
Seem  to  shrink  in  jealous  wonder. 
Darker  seem  and  almost  threaten 
With  their  weird  and  cringing  shadow^s  ! 
Now  her  rays  fall  o'er  the  totems 
Whose  wild  features,  grin  so  fiercely 
On  the  rippling,  moonlit  waters. 
Making  contrasts  with  the  softness 
Of  the  light  she  sheds  so  gently 
That  it  rises  on  the  wavelets. 
Dancing  with  their  every  motion, 


MOONLIGHT    IN    ALASKA.  345 

Dimpling  in  the  wind-kissed  waters — 
Spreading  like  a  polished  mirror, 
Where  no  quivering  air  disturbs  them, — 
Where  the  gently  sighing  zephyrs 
Ripple  not  the  glass-like  waters. 
Staring  eyes  with  no  expression — 
Eyes  of  beasts  and  man  and  fishes — 
Great  whales'  eyes,  and  eyes  that  never 
Held  their  place  in  aught  created. 
Seem  to  wink  and  leer  grotesquely. 
As  the  tiny,  glittering  cloudlets, 
Crossing  on  their  hurried  journeys, 
Cast  their  shadows  where  the  moon-face 
Paused  awhile  as  if  to  study 
And  to  understand  the  strangers. 
On  she  moves.     The  mighty  glaciers 
Take  her  light,  and  steep  its  clearness 
In  their  own  pure  azure  tintings, — 
Dye  so  deeply  with  their  blueness 
That  'twould  seem  it  held  forever. 
Through  its  many  miles  of  journey, 
Still  some  tinges  of  the  colors 


346  ALASKANA. 

Which  the  great  ice-giants  painted. 
Wandering  on,  she  pauses,  spell-bound, 
Close  beside  a  Shaman's  casket: 
Tremblingly  she  gazes  downward 
On  that  horrid,  lonely  grave-house, 
With  its  beastly  masks  and  drumsticks, 
With  its  paint  and  matted  headgear  ; 
On  the  drums  of  shapes  and  sizes 
Differinor  as  each  dire  occasion 
Needed  more  or  less  of  pounding 
To  intensify  the  torture 
Of  some  poor,  despairing  spirit ! 
And  she  hides  her  face  in  loathing 
At  the  sickening,  fetid  odor 
From  the  fast-decaying  framework 
Of  the  doctor,  whose  great  talents 
Could  not  save  himself  from  yielding 
To  the  monster,  whose  grim  presence 
He  so  often  tried  to  vanquish 
With  his  fearful  noise  and  clatter, 
With  his  awful,  blood-congealing. 
Horrifying  masks  and  faces  ! 


MOONLIGHT    IN    ALASKA.  347 

Here  her  presence  brings  no  blessing, 
So  she  hies  to  valleys  waiting 
For  her  light  to  bathe  their  verdure, — 
For  her  sparkling  scintillations 
To  repeat  themselves  in  myriads 
Of  the  drops  of  dew  suspended 
On  the  slender  blades  and  tassels 
Of  the  stalks  of  grass  and  barley, 
On  the  tender,  velvet  beauty 
Of  the  low,  abundant  grasses. 
Here,  she  waits  to  point  the  Siwash, 
Where  the  fish  are  plump  and  plenty, 
Where  the  darting,  finny  salmon 
Lives  to  fat  and  bright  perfection. 
There,  she  stoops  to  deck  a  grave-post 
Of  some  dear  one  who  has  wandered 
Out  upon  the  great,  green  water, — 
Out  toward  the  distant  island 
Where  the  holy  dead  will  waken. — 
Here, her  quivering  light  falls  lightly 
On  the  Eskimo's  mound  houses, 
On  their  homes  as  lowly  stationed 


;48  ALASKANA. 

As  the  dens  of  bears  and  foxes. 
And  the  Mah-le-moot's  cliff  eyries 
Look  more  sadly,  strangely  lonesome. 
But  she  brings  them  joy  in  showing 
Where  the  snoring,  lumbering  walrus 
Rolls  his  huge,  uncomely  body 
Prone  upon  the  shattered  ice-float 
That  is  bearing  him,  unconscious 
Of  the  barbed  harpoons  uplifted, — 
To  the  homes  of  those  whose  livingf 
Waits  upon  his  life's  swift  closing. 
Here  and  there  she  smiles  and  wanders, 
Always  gentle,  always  tender. 
And  as  though  the  dark-browed  savage 
Needed  most  her  brilliant  presence, 
There  she  lingers,  though  the  tropics 
Hold  such  gracious  charms  toward  her, 
Though  such  dreams  of  luscious  beauty 
Wait  to  meet  her  fair  uprising ! 
Wait  to  meet  the  timid  moonbeams 
As  they" beautify  and  gladden 
Nature  and  her  scenic  glories. 


AURORA. 


/^~^AN  it  be  that  once  these  mountains 
^-^     Boasted  robes  of  shaded  verdure, 
Touched  with  tints  of  moss  and  lichen, 
Dark  as  night,  or  flushed  and  golden, 
When  the  midnight  sun  held  empire 
Over  all  the  distant  region  ? 
Were  these  waters  waved  and  ruffled 
With  the  wind  by  sunlight  tempered  ? 
And  could  boats  surmount  the  rapids. 
Or  frail  bird-life  dive  and  flutter 
In  the  waves  that  are  now  rigid 
As  if  life  had  flown  forever  ? 
Now  a  robe,  as  pure  and  spotless 
As  a  soul  which  knows  no  evil, 

(349) 


350  ALASKANA. 

Drapes  the  mountains  from  their  bases 
To  the  topmost  crag-gy  summits. 
Rivers,  caught  while  bounding  swiftly, 
Turned  to  ice  in  waves  and  ruffles, 
Watch  in  clear  and  noiseless  patience 
For  the  day  which  brings  new  freedom. 
Whirlpools,  stilled  by  chilling  fingers. 
Wait  in  curving  rings  and  eddies, 
As  a  lovely  form  in  marble 
Waits  the  touch  of  life  to  eive  it 
All  it  lacks  of  fair  perfection. 
O'er  the  earth  the  spotless  mantle 
Rests  in  graceful  folds  and  wrinkles, 
And  the  trees  bow  humbly,  bearing 
On  each  twig  a  lovely  cluster. 
Every  blade  of  hardy  grasses, 
Every  stem  and  empty  seed-pod. 
Holds  its  freight  of  feathery  whiteness. 
All  is  white  and  pure  and  lovely, 
For  Alaska's  form  is  shrouded 
In  the  winding-sheet  which  winter 
Weaves  and  winds  about  her  fondly, 


AURORA.  351 

When  his  sway  has  gained  ascendance 

Over  fitful  summer's  fairness. 

Daylight  comes,  the  chilling  welcome 

Makes  her  stay  but  short  and  cheerless, 

But  the  night  gleams  thickly  star-gemmed, 

And  its  sway,  which  is  not  darkness. 

But  a  soft,  subduing  absence 

Of  the  sunlight's  glittering  presence. 

Lingers  long  and  yields  but  slowly 

To  the  day's  reluctant  visits. 

Silence,  in  its  chill  perfection. 

Reigns  among  the  hills  and  valleys. 

All  along  the  icy  by-ways 

Of  the  rivers,  streams,  and  cascades 

Which  were  bounding,  clear  as  crystal, 

From  their  steep  and  rocky  cradles 

When  the  north-wind  touched  them  lightly. 

And  they  froze  in  lucent  drapings 

O'er  the  rocks  and  trailing  mosses. 

Silence  holds  the  spell-bound  forests, 

And  the  winds  awake  no  echoes 

From  the  shrouded  crags  and  cliff-tops, 


352  ALASKAN  A. 

Save  a  low  and  muffled  sobbing 

That  accentuates  the  quiet 

Of  the  long,  pale  winter  twilight. 

Once  a  snow-white  fox  barked  hoarsely, 

But  his  voice  returned  and  smote  him, 

And  he  crept  away  in  terror 

Of  the  strange  and  cold  reception : 

And  some  grouse,  quite  near  the  border. 

Ventured  forth  to  seek  for  berries, 

But  they  went,  no  one  knew  whither. 

When  they  found  no  food  for  hunting. 

Stillness  !   Hush  !  that  seems  to  wrap  us 

In  a  weird  and  formless  presence — 

Closes  round  and  makes  the  starlight 

Seem  to  wave  in  silvery  circles. 

Darkly  blue  the  skies  grow  distant. 

And  each  star  and  gleaming  planet 

Hangs  alone  and  unsupported 

In  its  own  peculiar  orbit. 

List !  the  slicrht  electric  crackle  ! 

And,  behold  !  the  sky  is  painted 

In  plain,  quivering  bands  of  yellow, 


AURORA. 


353 


Glowing  wide  and  bright,  then  narrow, 
And  then  flashing  broad  and  golden, 
Sending  long,  bright  crimson  fingers 
Far  across  the  cloudless  ether. 
Rosy  lights  grow  clear  and  vivid. 
Pale  to  tints  of  faintest  blushes. 
Then  burst  out  in  glorious  shading 
Close  beside  the  soft,  blue  azure 
Where  the  sharp,  clear  edges  mingle 
In  the  softest  shades  of  purple. 
Pale-green  shafts  shoot  out  and  quiver 
In  the  glorious  golden  brightness  ! 
Flaming  pencils  touch  the  hill-tops, 
Sending  slender  rainbow  arches 
Down  their  glinting,  shimmering  mantles. 
Bushes,  trees  and  shining  grass-blades 
Catch  the  gleam  of  gold  and  crimson 
And  throw  out  swift,  starry  flashes 
Toward  the  gay,  auroral  brightness  ! 
In  the  north  a  glorious  archway 
Casts  its  glancing  rays  and  shafting 
And  uplifts  a  glittering  halo 

23 


;54  ALASKAN  A. 

Far  across  the  dark-blue  zenith  ! 

Downward  fiinors  its  mincrled  shading- — 

Gold  and  blue  and  green  and  crimson, 

Yellow,  tender  pink,  and  purple 

Lendinof  charms  to  earth's  fair  features — 

Shrinking"  from  the  icy  contact — 

And  then  sweeping  through  the  cloud-paths 

In  such  gorgeous,  painted  beauty 

That  no  tongue  with  earth-born  language 

Can  approach  Aurora's  splendor  ! 


SUNSET  IN  ALASKA. 


nPHROUGH  the  channel's  placid  waters 
Peacefully  our  ship  glides  onward — 
Onward,  thouofh  the  mountain  shadows 
Seem  to  bar  the  narrow  passage, 
Though  the  frowning  crags  bend  darkly 
And  the  pines  send  dirge-like  whispers 
From  their  homes  upon  the  cliff-sides — 
Onward,  through  a  stream  so  narrow 
That  the  ferns  and  slender  rushes 
Bend  before  the  wake  that  follows 
As  we  cleave  the  strait's  clear  bosom. 
Now  a  water-fowl  screams  loudly 
When  we  near  his  chosen  islet, 
And  the  startled  fishes,  springing, 

(355) 


156  ALASKAN  A. 

Bound  above  their  native  waters 
And  then  hide  their  shining  beauty 
In  the  channel's  sandy  runnels, 
Or  amonof  the  stones  and  seaweed 
Close  alono-  the  river  edg-es. 
Far  above,  the  sky's  pure  azure 
Bends  to  touch  the  water's  surface, 
Lending  tints  that,  darker  growing 
As  the  mountain  shades  receive  them, 
Turn  to  deepest  blue,  flecked  lightly 
With  the  clouds,  whose  fleecy  whiteness 
Smiles  amono^  the  darker  shadings. 
Softest  winds  send  lightest  ripples 
Up  and  down,  now  dancing  shoreward 
And  then  running  far  before  us 
On  our  way  through  strait  and  channel. 
Now  the  waning  day  grows  rosy, 
And  the  waves  repeat  the  blushes 
Which  an  ardent  sun  calls  brightly, 
As  he  throws  his  farewell  o-lances 
Over  stream  and  shady  by-ways, 
Over  wood  and  mountain  forehead, 


SUNSET    IN    ALASKA.  357 

Over  sky  and  earth  and  cloud-bank ! 
Golden  gleams  pierce  willow  diickets, 
Setdng  slender  leaves  a-quiver  ; 
Shimmering  shafts  surprise  the  pine-cones 
As  they  hide  beneath  the  branches, 
And  the  mosses  catch  the  glory 
Just  an  instant,  as  it  passes  ! 
Gold  and  blue,  with  rose-tints,  mingle 
In  the  sky  and  in  the  water, 
And  the  mountain  crests  catch  arrows 
From  the  sunset's  gilded  quiver-— 
Catch  them  and  then  throw  them  outward 
Till  their  brightness  lights  the  narrows, 
Till  the  shades  of  gold,  repeated. 
Glance  from  every  wave  and  ripple  ! 
On  we  glide  !  our  masts  and  bulwarks 
Shining  fair  between  the  sky-glow 
And  the  glinting  strait's  calm  current. 
On  and  out  to  broader  waters. 
Where  no  shadowy  crest  can  offer 
Frownino  foils  to  sunset  orlories  ! 
Either  shore  grows  softly  distant 


^6  ALASKANA. 

As  the  purpling  haze  falls  gently, 
Tinging  all  the  trailing  margin 
Soft  with  gleams  of  gold  and  roses ; 
Sky  and  earth  seem  almost  touching 
As  the  glorious  veil  waves  upward 
Toward  the  land  of  cloud  and  sunlight, 
Downward  till  the  shimmering  mirror 
Seems  to  rise  and  touch  the  borders 
That  no  human  hand  can  measure  ! 
Northward,  eastward,  clouds  uplifting, 
Roll  like  smoke  in  banks  whose  edges 
Shine  with  gold  and  silver  linings 
Burnished  to  a  dazzling  brightness! 
Westward,  purple  shades  make  contrasts 
Rich  with  tones  of  crimson,  turning 
Brighter  where  the  gold  bars,  streaming, 
Pierce  the  gorgeous,  shining  texture  ! 
Rosy  lights  shoot  forth  like  javelins 
Pressing  close  between  the  sun-rays, 
Mellowing  with  their  slender  pencils 
All  the  sharper  points  and  lances. 
Hush!  departing  day  fades,  slowly. 


SUNSET    IN    ALASKA.  359 

Lingering"  o'er  the  land  and  water, 
Loath  to  leave  such  matchless  beauty ! 
Far  and  wide  the  glorious  colorings 
Join  in  tints,  so  soft,  so  tender, 
That  the  far-off  sky  draws  nearer. 
And  the  channel's  swelling-  surface 
Faithfully  reflects  each  outline. 
Each  soft  tint,  each  glow,  each  glimmer. 
Until  all  is  lost  in  glory  ! 
Earth,  and  air,  and  sky,  united — 
Water,  mountain-top  and  valley 
Bathed  and  lost  in  one  grand  union, 
In  one  gorgeous  afterglowing  ! 
On  we  float,  our  engine  throbbing 
As  if  its  great  heart  was  awestruck 
With  the  sweet  transcendent  beauty. 
With  the  day's  grand  dissolution  ! 
And  we  gaze  in  speechless  wonder, 
Every  breath  in  charm  suspended. 
As  the  waves  and  ether  pulsate 
With  the  myriad  golden  tintings — 
With  the  million  roseate  shadings 


360  ALASKANA. 

Blending  in  such  matchless  splendor, 
In  such  pure,  translucent  beauty, 
That  it  seems  the  gates  have  opened 
And  the  world  beyond  the  shadows 
Has  drawn  near  and  shed  its  glory 
Over  all !  while  nature,  silent. 
Bends  in  reverent  awe,  receiving 
From  that  glorious  land  a  blessing, — 
From  the  sun' a  benediction  ! 


I 


APPENDIX. 


1.  To  Bering's  Voyage  to  Alaska. — "On  June 
4th,  1741,  Bering  and  his  Lieutenant,  Tschericov, 
sailed  from  Kamtchatka  eastward,  determined  to  prove 
the  truth  of  the  existence  of  a  Western  continent. 
Their  vessels  were  named  respectively  "  St.  Peter " 
and  "  St.  Paul."  In  a  few  days  the  ships  became  sep- 
arated in  a  storm,  and  the  men  never  met  again.  The 
"  St.  Peter,"  with  Bering  on  board  and  in  command, 
was  driven  to  land  and  out  to  sea  again,  helplessly,  for 
several  weeks,  until  it  was  at  last  anchored  on  the 
shore  of  one  of  the  Commander  Islands,  where  Bering, 
heart-broken  with  disappointment  and  ill-health,  died 
and  was  buried.  The  survivors  returned  to  Kamtchatka 
in  August  of  the  following  year,  with  such  proofs  of 
the  wealth  of  the  new-found  country  that  they  stimu- 
lated others  to  follow,  and  thus  opened  a  rich  source 
of  revenue  to  Russia." 

2.  In  "  Sitka." — "  New  Archangel,"  the  name  given 
by  Count  Barano\-  to  the  new  settlement  made  in  1804, 

(361) 


362  APPENDIX. 

after  the  destruction  of  the  original  trading  post,  which 
was  accomplished  by  the  natives  during  his  absence. 
He  at  first  named  it  "Archangel  Gabriel,"  then,  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  the  old  post,  he  called  it"  New  Arch- 
angel;" but  it  gradually  assumed  the  name  of  the 
tribe  of  natives  belonging  in  that  region,  and  "  Tseet- 
ka"  at  last  became  the  more  euphonious  "Sitka." 

3.  In  "Alg.e  of  Alaska." — On  many  of  the 
islands  of  the  Aleutian  chain  and  in  that  archipelago 
whose  rocky  desolation  renders  it  impossible  for  timber 
to  grow,  there  are  periodical  upheavals  of  kelp  and 
other  hardy  sea-plants  strewn  along  the  coasts  in  im- 
mense windrows,  some  attaining  a  height  of  five  or 
six  feet.  While  the  men  are  out  in  their  kyacks  fish- 
ing or  hunting  for  seals  or  walruses,  the  women  are 
busily  engaged  gathering  and  storing  away  the  seaweed 
for  fuel.  Their  work  is  laborious  beyond  conception, 
for  they  make  enormous  bundles. and  carry  them  on 
their  backs,  sometimes  for  miles.  Imagine  how  oft- 
repeated  the  journey  must  be  to  lay  in  a  sufficient  sup- 
ply for  even  a  short  time  ! 

4.  In  "  HuMMiNG-BiRD  IN  SiTKA." — Frequently  the 
small  ruby-throated  humming-bird,  which  is  so  com- 
mon in  the  Southern  States,  makes  its  appearance  for 
a  short  time  in  and  around  Sitka.  No  one  sees  its 
going  or  coming,  yet  there  it  is,  a  tiny  Southern  gem 
among  those  Alaskan  wilds. 

5.  In  "  Indian  River." — Indian  River  is  said  to  sup- 


APPENDIX.  363 

ply  the  only  good  drinking  water  in  or  near  Sitka.  It  is 
a  beautiful  stream  with  romantically  lovely  spots  along 
its  course.  It  is  quite  a  distance  from  some  parts  of 
the  town,  and  it  is  interesting  to  watch  the  inhabitants 
of  divers  nationalities,  with  a  most  remarkable  assort- 
ment of  vessels,  going  to  the  river  and  returning  from 
it  with  supplies  of  pure,  refreshing  water. 

6.  Is  "Alaskan  Marriage." — Some  tribes  among 
the  Alaskans  have  more  regard  for  women  than  others, 
but  mostly  they  are  considered  of  small  importance, 
except  so  far  as  their  services  conduce  to  the  pleasure 
or  comfort  of  their  masters. 

7.  In  "Totems." — No  one  seems  to  be  able  to  give 
the  origin  or  history  of  these  wonderfully  absurd 
"  totems."  Some  of  them  are  very  rudely  cut,  while 
others  display  a  great  deal  of  artistic  power.  A  pecu- 
liarity belonging  to  them  is  that  they  are  always  placed 
to  face  the  water,  if  there  is  any  near  by.  They  are 
undoubtedly  looked  upon  with  reverence,  though  there 
seems  to  be  not  the  slightest  foundation  for  the  idea  of 
their  being  worshipped  or  bowed  down  to  as  idols. 

8.  In  "A  Haidah  Taamish." — This  description 
will  be  found  to  be  by  no  means  overdrawn,  if  the 
reader  will  consult  the  reports  of  missionaries  who 
have  worked  long  and  faithfully  to  redeem  them  from 
their  frightful  practices.  "  Naw-looks  "  are  evil  spirits 
of  the  woods. 

9.  In  "An  Indian's  Dread  of  Drowning." — Among 


364  APPENDIX. 

these  benighted  people,  a  person  who  dies  by  drown- 
ing is  lost  to  all  future  happiness.  The  very  nearest 
he  may  reach  the  blissful  land  is  to  be  in  sight  of  its 
beautiful  green  fields,  and  to  be  within  hearing  of  the 
joyous  songs  of  the  happy. 

10.  In  "  Co-E-KY,  OR  Death  Feast." — The  positive 
knowledge  of  future  struggles  with  poverty  and  dis- 
comfort cannot  deter  the  Alaskans  from  sacrificing  all 
they  possess  in  these  "  death  feasts  "  and  "  potlatches," 
partly  because  of  the  honor  and  glory  of  displaying 
so  much,  and  partly  because  of  the  hope  of  obtaining 
equal  or  greater  riches  in  the  future  by  the  power  of 
the  spirits  who  are  invoked  upon  such  occasions,  and 
by  neighborly  returns  of  the  compliment. 

11.  In  "Potlatch." — These  potlatches  are  held 
in  commemoration  of  any  wonderful  achievement, 
as  a  celebration  of  a  youth's  succession  to  chieftain- 
ship of  his  tribe,  as  a  kind  of  housewarming  by  indi- 
viduals who  wish  to  awe  their  neighbors  with  their 
grandeur — in  fact,  almost  anything  of  the  least  impor- 
tance is  hailed  as  an  opportunity  for  indulging  in  this, 
one  of  Alaska's  peculiar  customs.  The  prodigality 
with  which  riches  are  distributed  at  such  feasts  would 
be  considered  little  short  of  insanity  among  civilized 
races.  But  these  dusky  people  have  a  strong  belief 
that  their  goods  will  be  amply  replaced  by  other  tribes 
in  future  feasts  and  by  the  power  of  the  great  spirits 
who  are  propitiated  in  their  performance. 


APPENDIX.  365 

12.  In  "Hot  Springs  of  Alaska." — This  sketch 
is  not  exaggerated.  There  are  such  hot  springs  near 
Sitka,  and  in  several  places  along  the  Aleutian  chain, 
whose  warmth  bestows  marvellous  beauty  to  the  sur- 
rounding neighborhood. 

13.  In  "Morse  and  Mah-le-moot." — Ookivik,  or 
King's  Island,  situated  in  Bering  Strait,  is  a  desolate, 
barren  island,  upon  whose  rocky  sides  the  cliff-builders 
hang  their  oddly-constructed,  nest-like  homes.  They 
are  compelled  to  live  in  this  peculiar  manner  because 
it  is  near  this  island  that  they  find  the  walrus,  which  is 
their  chief  sustenance. 

14.  In  "  Legend  of  Na-ass  River." — Near  Na-ass 
River,  in  the  southern  part  of  Alaska,  a  volcano  has 
thrown  lava  and  stones  in  a  continuous  stream  until  it 
resembles  a  river  bed.  The  Indians,  ever  ready  to  find 
some  preternatural  cause  for  anything  strange  or  won- 
derful, accept  the  legend  as  given,  and  point  to  the 
cremated  river  and  the  charred  and  bleaching  debris 
as  a  warning  to  their  children. 

15.  In  "  Pinnacle  Islet." — Pinnacle  Islet  is  a  rock 
rising  abruptly  from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  a  thou- 
sand feet.  It  is  five  miles  distant  from  the  island  of 
St.  Matthew,  which  is  the  land  nearest  to  it.  It  has 
been  an  active  volcano  ever  since  its  discovery. 

16.  In  "  Legend  of  the  Birth  of  Bogaslov." — 
Bogaslov  is  an  extinct  volcano  in  Bering  Sea,  said  to 
have  been  suddenly  discovered  after  a  great  commo- 


366  AF'I'ENDIX. 

tion  in  tlic  heavens  and  in  the  sea.  It  is  true  tliat  it  is 
every  year  growing  cooler  and  more  habitable  for  birds, 
and  that  sea-lions  haul  their  slippery  bodies  upon  its 
barren  sides  in  greater  numbers  than  they  did  some 
years  ago. 

17.  In  "Legend  of  the  Large  Glacier,  Stickeen 
River." — On  the  Stickeen  River,  thirty-five  miles  from 
Fort  Wrangel,  there  is  an  enormous  glacier,  about  one 
thousand  feet  high,  more  than  thirty  miles  long  and 
nearly  five  miles  across,  about  which  this  legend  has 
been  told  for  ages.  Its  gradual  wearing  away  prevents 
its  spanning  the  river  now  as  it  did  years  ago. 

18.  In  "  Chilkat  Legend  of  the  Raven." — The 
raven  is  regarded  by  the  Chilkats  as  the  most  sacred 
of  all  living  creatures — in  fact,  as  the  creator  and  up- 
holder of  the  world  !  Human  lives  have  often  been 
sacrificed  to  atone  for  some  real  or  fancied  injury  or 
insult  to  the  bird  whose  cast-off  feathers  even  are  re- 
garded as  sacred ! 

19.  In  "Legend  of  the  Owl." — T'linkets  believe 
firmly  in  this  creation  of  the  owl.  It  is  therefore 
looked  upon  with  a  mixture  of  disgust  and  fear,  but 
notwithstanding  it  holds  a  prominent  place  among  the 
totem  emblems. 

20.  In  "  Legend  of  Yehl." — Yehl  is  the  maker  of 
wood  and  water,  and  next  to  the  ra\'en  the  greatest  of 
all  spirits.  Yehl  inspires  more  reverence  than  fear  be- 
cause of  his  goodness  to  his  people  when  they  were 


APPKNDIX.  367 

suffering  and  in  darkness.  His  feathers  are  treas- 
ured with  great  care  and  worn  with  pride  on  grand 
occasions,  while  the  down  from  his  breast  has  the 
power  to  keep  evil  spirits  at  bay,  if  it  is  only  blown 
across  the  head  of  the  one  to  be  protected. 

21.  In  "Legend  of  Mount  Edgecumbe." — Many 
natives  have  faith  in  the  legend  as  herein  given,  others 
give  it  another  form.  A  Si  wash  and  his  wife  quar- 
reled so  fiercely  that  the  woman  fled,  her  husband  in 
hot  pursuit  tried  to  strike  her  just  as  she  reached  the 
top  of  the  mountain,  when  Edgecumbe  opened  and 
took  her  into  its  protection.  Meanwhile  the  husband 
was  changed  into  a  fiercely  howling  wolf  The  mut- 
terings  of  the  storm,  they  say,  is  the  voice  of  the 
woman  talking  to  the  spirits  of  the  mountain;  the 
thunder  is  the  growling  of  the  wolf  as  he  eats  his  prey 
which  he  goes  to  the  valley  to  seek ;  but  he  invariably 
carries  it  to  the  spot  at  which  his  wife  disappeared  be- 
fore he  devours  it.  The  bird  into  which  Chethel  turned 
was  the  osprey,  or  sea  eagle.  "Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon  " 
means,  "the  woman  that  supports  the  earth." 

22.  In  "  Legend  of  Baranov  Castle." — There  are 
others  besides  some  natixes  who  have  claimed  to  have 
seen  the  beautiful  ghost  of  the  castle,  the  victim  of 
Baranov's  villainous  cruelty.  It  has  been  said  that  he 
liad  no  other  opposition  to  his  niece's  lover  except 
that  the  rank  of  the  second  suitor  pleased  his  ambi- 
tion, and  he  willingly  resorted  to  treachery  to  secure 
for  his  family  such  an  alliance. 


368  API^ENDIX. 

23.  In  "  Conclusion." — There  are  tribes  in  Africa 
with  some  pecuHarities  identical  with  those  of  some 
of  the  Alaskans.  For  instance,  the  labret  in  the  lips, 
the  edges  of  the  ears  are  pierced  and  small  iron  rings 
or  shells  are  inserted  ;  they  call  gunpowder  "  fire  medi- 
cine," and  their  doctors,  medicine  men. 

For  information  see  "  Baviri  Tribe,"  Stanley's 
Darkest  Africa. 


^ 


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